Wayne P.

Sam, braid twists as much as any other line using the same lures and reels, it just isn't affected as much. In your second post, "I would think that anyone that invents a mono or flouro that does not twist will be a very rich person." It has nothing to do with the line itself, it's all about the application that creats the twist. The only way to reduce twist is the use a good quality swivel as part of the terminal tackle so the line won't be twisted during the retrieve. Line twist occurs on baitcasting gear also when the lure spins, that is one of the reasons you need to rig a Tx rig worm straight.

At Walmart, you can get a suitable battery and charger for around $100

BrianinMD, thanks for the question. I did some web searches about charging batteries and according to the Sinetech site, you are correct. In actual practice though, most tournament fishermen don't have the time to allow for 24+ hours for a recharge and use the higher rate chargers to compensate for time. That is why there are multi bank chargers made with 15 amps per bank. Minnkota and Dual Pro have such chargers. This site states just the opposite and as I do it. http://www.insideline.net/1996/puckett-1112-96.html Another site recommends a charge rate of 10% of the battery's capacity as in 10A charger for a 100ah battery. ??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Actually there are two things missing-fishing line and a bass-LOL

Pressured or not pressured, doesn't make any difference-it produces.

Walmart for the charger too. Get at least a 10 A. The faster you recharge, the happier your battery will be. I have 4 portables, three are 10 A and one is a combination 2A, 10A, and 15A. All are automatic.

Thanks for question. The only time in the 36V series set up that current passes between batteries is when the power button is depressed on the trolling motor. As stated before, a multi-bank charger is just a group of single 12V chargers in one package which operate independently of each other and in function is no difference than three separate 12V chargers whether one or all are connected to batteries. If you have a bank failure in your multi-bank charger, you can just move a working bank to the uncharged battery to charge it. No sorry is necessary, we all have to learn at some point.

A wacky rigged finesse worm or Trick worm. 381 bass in May for 11 days of fishing and 11 bass over 4#. That is one more than May 2007 and 27 more than May 2006.

My choice would be Lake Fork and there isn't any season, it's year round fishing.

HPBB, removing the jumpers between batteries is not necessary when charging indivually. When using a multi-bank on board charger the jumpers are not removed. Those chargers are just a group of single 12V chargers in a combined package with separate positive and negative connections for each battery. Current will only flow between the positive and negative connections of a charger.

It doesn't cause line twist; it results in the dreaded tangle during a cast. The bail slapping the line when it closes causes a piece of slack line in the form of a small loop on the spool that is exaggerated when the next cast is made. Line twist is caused by spinning lures, the change of direction that the line makes as it is wound on the spool perpendicular to the rod, or reeling against a slipping drag. Closing the bail by hand with the line under tension will prevent the tangle from happening.

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I have one. They were part of the OMC group before the bankrupcy deal along with Hydrosports and Stratos. The Hydrosports and Javelin bass boats were built in the same factory in Murfreesboro, Tenn. They were the package deal models which included the outboard motor, trolling motor and trailer. There are lots of them still around especially on North Carolina, Alabama, and Tennessee. I have the 1993 17'9" model called 379T with a 150 Fastsrike engine. It is one of the better riding rough water hulls. The earlier hulls of that size were not as good riding-I had one of those too. The 18'9" size model 389 held the speed record in some catagory for a while, it is rated for 175 HP.

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Charge them individually with three separater chargers (that is what a three bank charger does) or switch to another battery after each individual one is charged. The second is not recommended for good battery life as the batteries need to be recharged as soon as possible after discharge.

I see thermoclines without any adjustments of the sonar unit. Automatic setting for me. The older LCR units I have don't have ping speed adjustments and chart speed is not a factor in thermocline detection. With my flashes units, I set the sensitivity to show a double bottom echo so I can tell if a bottom hardness change has occurred.

Don't use the rubber core at all, just the lead. For a larger readily available hook, the Gamakatsu G-Mag Oversize hook will work for most baits. I get both at Dick's Sporting Goods. Even if you use the pre-weighted hooks don't tie them on and insert them. Push the hook eye thru the bait head and then tie it on. In a recent post I showed a crochet needle that I use to pull the line thru the bait before tying on the hook which causes less damage from hook insertion.

Are batteries 2 and 3 connected together or is battery 2 with the electronics, livewell, lights and horn just a back-up for the trolling motor battery 3?

Here is a low cost, low pixel count, monochrome, old Humminbird unit (LCR 4000 ) that shows and explains thermocline. Scroll dowm to page 31----- http://www.humminbird.com/PDF/lcr4000.pdf

"Horse feathers" about the high end units and color needed for thermocline locating. My Eagle Fishmark 320, Lowrance X70A, Lowrance 1240A flasher, and Humminbird flasher all show thermoclines-none of those are "high end" or color.

You can do a Google search for "shoot thru transducer mounting" and get lots of information. This is one of them: http://bbs.trailersailor.com/forums/articles/index.cgi/noframes/read/106

For shoot thru applications, just use a slow cure epoxy and mix slowly to prevent bubbles. Mount it in the thinnest part of the hull. Clean the inside of the hull in the area where it is to be placed and sand lightly to insure adhesion. You can do a test installation to check for the best location by putting some water in the bilge, place the transducer in a suspect location and hold down the transducer with some weight to see if you get strong signal returns. Most fiberglass bass boats have a noticable thin spot at the pad for just those applications. Either style transducer can be used. The puck type (which is the same for trolling motor mounting) makes a better installation since the bottom is flat. Your sonar manual should have those steps explained.

Favorite conditions would be slight stain, water temp in the mid to upper 50's with air temps in the 70's , a light breeze and sunshine. Barometric pressure is of no consequence. Prespawn feeding spree !!!!!

A thru hull transducer is a special set up requiring drilling a hole in the bottom of the boat. The puck type or skimmer type can be mounted on the trolling motor or used as a shoot thru.

Use Seafoam all the time or a shock treatment of some de-carbonizer occasionally and your motor should be trouble free no matter what rpm range you use. Lots of saltwater fishermen troll with that size motor or larger with no difficulties.