Wayne P.

I have the Tom-Tom One, was on sale at Circuit City for less than $130 a couple of months ago. Very satisfied and surprised with it's accuracy. I have done two on-line updates since the purchase. It's so easy to use that "even a cave man can do it", my wife too.

If you are not satisfied with 10# mono with spincasting, then about the only fluorocarbon line that MIGHT cast better is 6# or smaller, but I doubt it. Fluorocarbon lines are stiffer than most nylon monos. The route that the line has to take from springing off the spool and being forced through the reel nose hole that is so close to the spool, may just kill any distance you may be hoping for. RW's suggestion may be your best option.

You guys are getting all hung up on the marketing hype of red line. It does not disappear. It may blend in with some stained or muddy water colors, but no more than green line does in green water. For clear water, the color red is filtered out by the water as the line gets deeper. The line itself is still visible but not in the red part of the spectrum. It may look brown to black as the depth increases, but it is still visible. The red line does not magically become clear when immersed. That goes for the red mono lines as well as the red braids. Fish can see red. Shorehugger, in your aquaruim test, try a red laser like those lazer pointers and watch the fish follow the red dot as you move it around. Your flashlight test only shows that dim light is less obtrusive to your fish than bright light.

The hook is a Falcon Lures Bait-Jerker 5/0 and the weight is 3/32 oz. I use that for getting deeper than 10'. For shallower presentations I use the same hook but lighter weight 1/32 oz. I also have some H & H Flutter Hooks in 5/0 and 1/8 oz with the same style hook. For the Magnum Super Fluke , I use the 6/0 and 3/32 oz. I use it just like an unweighted Fluke-underwater jerk-bait. Edited: The Falcon hooks are Gammy G-Lock and the H & H is the Gammy EWG

Another C/R deer

I do it all the time during deer season while waiting on THE one.

Fireline is not a braid, it is fused filament and is stiffer than braids. It is a desirable trait for some applications.

Well my PM won't solve that problem, but the same type of components will if you drill a hole for the fittings. Use the marine grade silicone or epoxy.

Roostertails, this is the Supe Fluke rigged like my PM was describing.

Nitroman, those guide reports apply to Aquia Creek as well as other sections of the Potomac. Aquia has spatterdock, marsh banks, grass mats/clumps, wood, and docks. It has the railroad supports too and relatively deep water in the narrower creek in the NO WAKE ZONE. Every presentation plus more is applicable.

Contact these folks, they will send you the part the same day. http://www.trollnmotors.com/

From reelbassadventures@potomacbass.com 6/21/08---- "There is a good early morning topwater bite. Bass like buzz baits, poppers and grass frogs worked over grasses and around marsh banks in creeks and on the main river. Chatter baits are productive in the same areas as are motor oil color plastic worms or stick worms. Mann's Baby 1-minus lures worked around shoreline cover draws strikes from quality bass. A jig and craw combo pitched around downed trees, wood or boat docks, will turn up better than average size fish. All tides are producing but the bite gets even better on the low end of the out going tide." Water Temp: 76 degrees Water Clarity: 1-2 feet

PM sent, too much detail to explain here.

If you can get to the underside of your deck, do not use the isolators. I have seen too many of those applications pull out. Most of those setups have been replaced with a bolt/washer/nut conbination to prevent the pull outs. Since a large hole had to be used for the isolator, the molded-in nut was cut off and the rest of the isolator was used to take up space for a 1/4" bolt. If you are worried about the mount marring the boat surface, just use some rubber matting for a spacer. For your application, just drill matching holes of the trolling motor bracket, the spacer and deck and run the bolts though the trolling motor mount, your spacer, and through the deck. Use a fender washer and nylock nut.

I use the H2O also with Navionics Hotmaps Premium software and free download maps from the Lowrance web site. Check the list of maps that Lowrance has and Navionics has or whatever other mapping software providers have to see which one has the lakes you fish.

Each bank of your 3 bank battery charger is a separate charger independent of each other. Just keep the unused wires from touching each other, any of the others, and shorting out on some conductive surface. Is the garage too far or so disconnected from the apartment to run an extension cord?

Good advice Raul, maybe some day he will learn to locate and fish for deep fish and the higher pixel count will show the fish and his lures better.

What brand and line size were you using? Have you checked your rod guides for possible damage? How old is your line? I use the uni-knot for 90% of my connections with all line types without a problem.

LKN, I sent you a PM and want to add a change to your rigging. Get some 3/8" electrical shrink tubing and use that instead of the O rings. Stick the hook through the worm and tubing which will rotate your hook 90 degrees for better exposure like the Senko at the bottom of the picture.

I use an innertube for a 8" trailer tire. I put a little plastic basket inside the hole to hold extra lures and just lay one or two rods across the tube held down with a small bungee cord. I tie the tube to me with about 5' of rope. I have the pressure let off some for storage.

The sequence goes as follows: green is "go", yellow is "prepare to stop", red is "stop". Kind of simple when you follow the guide lines for traffic control. A local high school kid got killed a few weeks ago by a truck that ran a red light that was controlling traffic on a divided highway. She was coming out of a side street and had crossed the 2 North bound lanes and was making a left turn thru the intersection and was hit in the South bound lanes. The median is about 2 1/2 lanes wide.

Since you asked for a Summer catch average, Summer starts on June 20 and ends on Sept 20. During that period last year, I averaged 24.3 bass per trip on 11 different bodies of water. For 2006, I averaged 26.6 per trip on 16 different bodies of water.

I am not aware of any mfg that makes rubber worms any more if any ever did. You may find some plastic worms that will float if they don't have salt mixed in with the plastic. Google "floating worms" and you will find lots of topics concerning them.

Since reading the silverdoctor site, I have reservations and questions about replicas since I have never considered one. So a fish is killed to make the mold for a replica. Does that mean that if the mold supplier does not have an exact mold of the size caught or formed in the position you want, that you cannot get a replica of your fish in the correct size and in the pose that you want? If you don't want to settle for a replica that is close but not exact, is another fish killed to produce the replica? I have caught a bass that weighed 8# 6 oz and was 27 1/8" long and another that weighed 10# 4oz and was 27" long. Do replica producers have a mold for each of those or does the taxidermist make modifications to the replica before painting? I was thinking that the replica was made from a sculpture by an artist of the exact deminsions provided instead of a mold of an actual fish. "Inquiring minds want to know"

The Zoom worms will float just by themselves until they are forced below the surface. Once they are wet, they will sink. The action that makes them float is called surface tension which is the same thing that keeps water spiders from sinking. Lots of people call the Zoom Trick worm a floating worm, but that is because "back in the day" the first ones of that size did float. The brand name was Danny Joe Humphrey's Floating Worms.