Braids don't have the relatively hard and slick surface like monos do nor are they as stiff. The difference will be even more apparent when reeling in quicky under tension--you will hear it.
You can check your guides with a cotton swab to see if any have cracks, if not you are OK.
IMPY03, I use 30# braid for finesse presentations. I'm glad to see that the schooling action has picked up. My best producing presentations for those fish are a 1/2 oz Rat-L-Trap and a Super Fluke. I always have those tied on a few rods when I am there. This rain from Hanna will drop the water temp and increase the schooling action.
Bobby megastrike, I have Bullfrog and Coppertone sunscreens. I check the list of ingredients before I buy them. Neither has any oil as listed in the ingredients. Both companies do have a line that contains an oil, but I don't use that type since it makes my hands slippery.
RoseAngler, for a test, the next time you fish that way, mash the barb down and see if you get better hook ups. If that works OK, and you prefer to have a barbed hook, downsize your hook to a 2/0 or 3/0. You may be "trying to drive a spike with a tack hammer" so to speak.
I'm setting in one of the target areas at the N.C. outer banks. I'll be pulling out in the morning headed back to central Va.
I ain't waiting for Hannah.
Since no one has asked, what brand and hook size are your using?
Lots of fishermen use even lighter line for soft plastics with light action rods and catch bass.
A large cooler with an aerator installed works fine. You can get both at Walmart. I have that setup for small lake tournaments when I use my 12' jon boat.
The bass will do fine, the B.A.S.S. pros jerk them in the boat with their fishing rods, drop them on the floor, and spend some time showing them to the camera. Most seem to survive the ordeal. They set such a fine example of fish care, :
Tungsten is too hard for split shot use. Tru Tungsen has some small worm weights that will suffice for that purpose as you can peg them with a rubber band.
http://tru-tungsten.com/store/cart.php?target=product&product_id=2&category_id=4
Yes Garnet, I have a couple hanging in the garage with the white props.
An addition to make operating the motor on the front easier is to add a Big Foot switch to the positive side of the battery connection so you can turn it on and off without turning the handle. Then you can leave it on one speed setting.
Thanks for the picture, it looks familiar. It has no connection to the bottom and is a very small floating plant. The worse thing about it is that it prevents light penetration and can cause the water temp to rise due to the solid cover absorbing the sun light. It has other bad qualities:
http://aquaplant.tamu.edu/database/floating_plants/common_duckweed.htm
Where this stuff is common is not worth fishing.
bubba77, if you didn't notice, the hook bend is not thru the body. The hook bend is placed between the legs and then the point is skin hooked on the back. That way the plastic does not interfere with the hook penetration and the frog just swings out of the way allowing for positive hookups. The Zoom Horny Toad hook is rigged the same way.
Good luck <*)))))<(
The Gammy G-Mag Oversize hook does a better job of being a keel than the Gammy Superline hooks for the swimming frogs. Also its the perfect length for those baits, has a bigger bite and the wire diameter is equal to the Superline hook. I didn't do it for this photo, but I open the bend of the G-Mag a little to get the point more parallel to the frog body and that improves the hookup ratio also.
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