Wayne P.

I had to get software to download pictures from the Razr phone to my XP computer (Handset Manager by Mobile Action Technology Inc.). When I got a couple of Vista computers, the software would not work it them and there is no Vista version of it either. I still have to use the XP machine.

BassHound, I tried the plastic straws from several fast food places and all of them were too brittle to last even for one hook set. That is how I eventually came up with the electrical shrink tubing method.

Every bass I have caught over #9 has come on a weedless wacky rigged finesse worm.

I just got back from an ATV/Golf Cart repair/sales dealer. There are no 12V solenoids for electric golf carts, most are at least 36V. Some are available for gas carts with continuous duty coils but I couldn't get the specs on those. The parts dept suggested a solenoid for an electric winch like those used on ATV's. There are two kinds with one being waterproof for about $90 and another non-waterproof for about $30. After checking the specs for the wenches, I ordered two of the non-waterproof models. A #2000 winch draws over 150 amps under full load so the contacts for those is plenty heavy duty for a trolling motor and the coil is continuous duty. It is listed under parts for Warn Winches.

I've tried the split ring and O ring for Senkos. I didn't like either one. The electrical shrink tubing works much better and allows for a perpendicular hook position for a better hook-up ratio or a parallel hook position.

Thanks Team-Dougherty, I'll be ready if the coil fails. I didn't consider the duty rating of the coil, I was only thinking of the amp capacity of the contacts. When I discussed my application at the auto supply store, wire size for the activation circuit was the only topic. Being a small guage (16 was suggested) ment low amp draw. I used 12 guage. Next purchase will be a golf cart solenoid. edited: I'm going to run the auto version that I have now to see how long it will last and then swap to the golf cart version if I experience a failure. I like the golf cart version better as the negative side of the control circuit is a terminal instead of a grounding frame like the auto version so a remote location can be utilized. Just a single wire quick disconnect for that change.

Another positive attribute is parts. Other than $12 for the solenoid, I only had to obtain one 10-32 nut for the activation circuit connection at the solenoid and a short piece of wire from the positive battery post to the solenoid post (already had that), some #12 wire for the Big Foot switch I already had, the quick disconnect plug (like a two wire version of a 4 wire flat trailer electrical hookup) and some wire terminals and splices. The wing nut on the negative battery post was switched with the solenoid post nut so that was a non purchase. The negative battery post wing nut wouldn't fit within the space of the solenoid frame connection anyway. I plan on using two transom mounted electric motors along with a bow electric on my next setup. This will make the wiring a lot easier and cheaper with virtually no voltage loss due to wire resistance.

I know from over 19 years fishing there using dozens of worm colors including several colors on a particular day that it makes no difference to the fish. Just use whatever color you like and it will work. I prefer to insert a nail into the worm head if weight is needed.

I use my jon boat for electric only lakes and also limited HP gas motor lakes. When I am on electric only lakes, I use a transom mount trolling motor and a bow mount foot control motor. Since I only use the transom motor set on its highest speed, I wanted to be able to turn it off and on from the front of the boat. I had been using a heavy wire from the battery to the front with a Big Foot switch for that purpose. When planning on a new boat setup, I came up with an easier way to operate the transom motor without having to buy the heavy guage wire to lessen voltage loss. I bought a 12V starter solenoid which only requires a small size wire for the energizing circuit and that allowed for the trolling motor wiring to connect to the battery with a very short cable along with the motor power wiring-no voltage loss from a long wiring run. Now I just make the positive connection to the trolling motor at one side of the solenoid and the other to the negative battery post which is the negative of the solenoid activation switch (the grounding frame). The Big Foot switch is wired to make and break the positive side of the solenoid activation circuit where I used a quick disconnect plug so removal is easy when I want to use the gas motor. Pictured is the setup-the top left two wires are to the trolling motor.

Thanks for asking that question. It reminded me to try and find where I put mine after using this past winter. I use the Seirus Hyperlite waterproof breathable gloves. They are full fingered, black in color and are thin. When moving to other areas to fish, I put on a pair of the same brand over those that are insulated, thicker, and have a pocket on the back for a chemical hand warmer. I've tried the neoprene gloves in full finger, fingerless, and index/forefinger tip exposed styles and all of those make my hands sweat which makes them feel even colder.

Catt, I can tell you why I'd rather reply with via e-mail with my presentation. I go into a lot of detail including pictures at appropriate junctions and this forum is not suited for that amount of space.

Raul, taking "forever" is the whole point of suggesting weightless. If the fish are not on the bottom, the longer the bait is at the level the fish are, the more likely they will notice it and may try to eat it. The hook and line are enough weight to get a S-L-O-W fall. I use that presentation most of the time and the fish seem to like it. Baits with salt content sink faster than those without, hince the bait suggestions.

Bassyak, join the usergroup for SI units on the Yahoo web site. Some Humminbird reps along with lots owners discuss the set up and use of that technology. You may not want the technology if you cannot use it within its optimum operating parameters.

IMPY03, I usually get on plane just out from the boat dock and stay on plane until I get near the large shallow clearing at the upper end where Briery Creek and Little Briery Creek enter the lake. Of course I know where the creek channel is amongst the trees and which stumps lean in towards the channel middle. The creek channel is about in the center of the lake in the middle of the trees. It makes a few turns in some places though. It takes a few times going slow using a sonar to find the path or you can watch someone blasting thru like I do and get an idea if you are in the area. Ocassionally someone will put some barely visible markers on trees that are close but they don't last long.

This is what the lake looks like as you look across the lake from the 701 ramp at normal water levels. The first few years after the lake was opened to fishing, the 701 ramp was not there and you couldn't see across the lake because of the thick timber and bushes.

This is what the upper end looks like when the water level is about 1' lower than it is now.

Check this VDGIF site for lake info including a map. http://www.dgif.virginia.gov/fishing/waterbodies/display.asp?id=21&section=maps

Rt. 701 is about 3 miles South of the entrance to the dam area. There is a brown Game Commission sign just before the turn off on Rt. 15. It is a right turn heading South from Farmville. Just follow the road to the end and when you hear a splash, you are there. LOL. The number of trees is not much difference but there are open shallower areas without any trees. There are some boat lanes thru the trees that are not obvious unless you are familiar with the lake. When you were there a month ago, the water level was such that normally submerged broken off trees were visible. When the level gets back to normal like in the Spring, those short stumps you saw will be just under the surface. Now is a good time to get familiar with the mid lake and upper end areas so you will know what is hidden later. There are some broken off trees right at the surface now but are around some that are visible so it helps.

You may find a used or reconditioned one at one of the trolling motor repair companies. Foster's is one--http://www.trollnmotors.com

Maybe you should also try a weightless soft plastic bait and have the patience to let it fall all the way to the bottom. It may not make it that far. A Senko, Super Fluke, or Zoom Trick or Finesse worm would be my choices.

allst8rnnr, don't be afraid of navigating Briery Creek. Bumping into the submerged stumps won't damage your boat at trolling motor speeds. Getting hung up on top of one is a challenge sometimes though. What I do is when I feel the boat hitting one, I keep up my monentum and I usually just slide over it. Shifting your weight to opposite the hang up helps too. I run my jon boat with a 9.9 outboard on plane just about everywhere on the lake that I choose to fish but take it slow to a fast idle in some areas. I hang up on stumps on purpose lots of times to hold the boat in position while fishing so I don't have to keep using the trolling motor especially when its windy. I have been fishing there since it opened in Jan 1989 so I know it quite well. The next time you go, use the Rt. 701 (mid lake) ramp as some the best catching areas are within sight of the ramp.

IMPY03, my guess is after the water temp stabilizes some that schooling will be going on all over the lake. I went to several areas of the lake North and South of the ramp looking for concentrations of bass and shad, but didn't find any. The last 3/4 to 1/2 mile of the South end is where I found the fish.

I got your solution right here: e-mail me at purdum@aol.com for details if interested.

Thanks ColdwaterBassin, I got my frog ID messed up. It definately is the Snag Proof brand. Larger hook with a more upright hook position for better hookups.

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