Wayne P.

Good catch Al, I missed that one.

You may want to keep this site handy for parts; http://www.motortechva.com/PopularOMCParts.html There are several but this was the first one I found with a Google search.

I think the small prop model is 41# thrust. I just gave one away for a spare to a guy that bought my bass boat with the HO model 56# installed. I still have a 56# HO model on my jon boat. The steering cable will break at some point so a spare is a good idea. I can tell in the picture that the mount has been broken and replaced. Most of the time that happens if you bump into a dock with the skeg, be careful (did it twice and its a tough change out if you can find the parts). My first fiberglass bass boat had the 41# model and I wore it out. You can put a puck type sonar transducer between the nose cone and skeg-the skimmer style doesn't fit to well. I have a brand new 12" prop that uses the cotter key like yours for a spare if you ever need one. The one I sold with the boat had a nut to hold on the prop. Is yours the 42" shaft?

Yes, it does shows speed, elevation, trails, routes, 1000 waypoint memory, etc. There are mounts made for it made by RAM. I have one that I used with a suction cup base but I didn't use that mount in the boat because I already had a larger unit when I got it. I used it yesterday to stay on a property boundry for placing POSTED signs between corner markers. You may prefer the color unit H2OC that has a higher pixel count screen-both units are the same size but that unit cost about $100 more. You can get the specs at the Lowrance web site or in one of the fishing catalogs.

Yes, I use the Lowrance H2O with the Navionics software and some free download maps from the Lowrance site. I use it for hunting also. The only one I know that will do the before mentioned plus highway use for turn by turn directions is the Lowrance XOG.

Fluorocarbon line diameters are pretty much the same as nylon monos. There are several diameters for the same pound test just like nylon monos are. Two popular lines by Berkley, Trilene XL and XT, are different diameters in the same pound test. Which brand and which line in a brand that the reel capacity is referring to is a mystery. As far as the diameter reference for braids, its the same thing. No one knows which line it is compared to for its diameter reference. Berkley Vanish and Berkley 100% Fluorocarbon in the same pound test are different diameters. One of my reels has capacities listed in pound test/yards and diameter in mm/meters for three sizes. Because of those variables, unless a specific capacity is stated in line diameter only, its a crap shoot to get the exact amount. Getting a strength reference to the diameter will be an additional crap shoot.

I looked thru about 20 reel specs that I have and none have multiple line capacities listed with a 12# capacity of 140 yards like the Revo S does. One of my reels has capacities for 8/165, 10/140, and 12/120 lines and by some cyphering, I come up with the reel will hold 37.5% more 8# line than it will of 12# line. So if you are going to use 8/30 braid on the Revo, that would mean the reel would hold about 192.5 yards.

moloch16, that is pretty much the whole point of glueing it down. If it is easy to remove, then it won't stay attached after it gets wet or sun baked. I use indoor/outdoor carpet glue and do attach the carpet directly to the hull of my jon boats.

A good thing about lures that produce for many years and still do is that they don't need to be promoted or advertized. They get their reputation from the successful anglers that use them and from anglers that get outfished by others using them when they don't use them.

Bobby, I agree with you about the baitholder hook style and have tried it. When I was trying them, I mashed down the shank barbs to save my fingers from getting cut up. I prefer the Octopus hook for the same reasons plus the bend where the hook eye is just works better for weedless wacky rigging.

I see your dilema and your best solution is to take your new reel to a tackle shop that sells line by the yard, pick your line size and have them spool it on for you. Then you will know how much to purchase for respooling it yourself the next time. That is the most absolute way to know.

One of the advantages of a receiver hitch is that the height of the ball can be matched with the height of the trailer frame so it is level when towing. On some boat trailers and others it is most important.

senko77, no I didn't think you were rebutting me personally, no offence taken. I was just qualifying my opinion of the hooks and their lack of performance based on every case I am familiar with and not knowing your degree of experience in their use. Lots of people must use them because Walmart sells them and they are constantly out of stock. Thanks for the reply.

You have another alternative. Since Winter has arrived in your part of the country, just have yours repaired. You can use it again if it is the best for your application or have it as a spare if you get another one.

Muddy, I just take a pair on needle nose pliers and hold it perpendicular to the hook, grab it where the barb is and squeeze. Most of the time it snaps off and if it doesn't, I rotate the plies a couple of times around the hook shank so it will fall off. I don't want that little piece of hard sharp metal coming off and sticking into my finger at some random point (been there done that and it hurts) senko77, my critizism of the finesse wide gap hook comes from my experiences and from several fishing partners missing fish and then catching them after using the Octopus hook that I gave them. The weedless finesse wide gap hook is even worse for missed fish. If you are hooking them in the roof of the mouth every time, that means you are missing a lot of fish when the hook is turned in another direction in the fish's mouth. I have tried the 1/0, 2/0, 3/0 and 4/0 in the finesse wide gap and the 1/0 and 2/0 in the weedless finesse wide gap. I've given them every chance to perform and they have failed too many times for me and others. I'm glad they work for you.

I don't use the Cocoons, but a similar type called FitOvers. I have the amber lense and gray lense models. I do have the Cocoon brand clip-on though. Due to my perscription, I cannot use any of the wrap around type frames. All of my prescription polarized sunglasses are about the same shape as the fitover type sunglasses. The fish don't care what you look like with them on.

I use the uni-uni connection with 6 turns on both lines. Most of my setups utilize 30# Stren Super Braid and 20# XPS Fluorocarbon. After I complete the knot (I don't double the braid), I trim both tag ends flush with the knots. My rods have 6mm tips and I have no problems with knot failure, casting or retrieving. I retie after about 75-100 bass caught. The longer knot length passes thru the guides better especially when casing than the shorter 3 turn version as pgersumky suggests and that is due to the tapered shape of the knot as the lines butt against each other.

Muddy, yes I tried the circle hooks when I was going thru the process of developing the ideal weedless wacky rig. The only time I would recommend that hook is when tournament practicing and my goal was to not catch bass or for using live bait (which I don't do). A gullet hooked fish with a circle hook (it happens) is almost impossible to remove without a lot of damage to the fish. In function, the finesse wide gap hook has to be used kind of like a circle hook and let the fish swim directly away or at least perpendicular to the rod to get consistant hookups. Thanks for that question. edited: more than 3/4 of the bass I catch wacky rigging are hooked in the throat because they just take it in so deliberately. With a de-barbed Octopus hook and a pair of curved jaw hemostats, once the hook is gripped, a gentle twist is all it takes to remove it. I've done it thousands of times.

Finding the legality of the lights for Florida was too tedious so I gave up. Alabama was easy to find: http://www.legislature.state.al.us/CodeOfAlabama/1975/32-5-241.htm in part C, paragraph 3 It looks like it is not legal to have extra backup lights on a vehicle there. When I was in Alabama a month ago fishing at Guntersville, I saw several trucks with extra backup lights installed and they also had driving lights on their boats but I didn't notice which state they were from. I'm sure any operating auxiliary driving lights on the Jeeps mentioned would be wired with heavy duty components including relays. I already have the components for the magnetic mounted ones, so I will be utilizing mine for at-the-ramp use only.

If you are a bass fisherman having a whole reel spool of new line is a waste. Just use some old line as backing and only put about 50 yards or less of new line on your reel. When you break off or retie a few times, then just replace the new part as necessary. That goes for all types of fishing line.

The boat trailers with surge brakes/brake lockout solenoid and backup lights just use the existing backup light circuit for power. I agree that a larger size wire from the battery and fused at the battery is a better source of power for the halogen lights because of voltage loss due to the existing wire size, but if I did that, I would locate the relay near the rear of the vehicle and use the backup light circuit in an existing 7-way plug to operate it and not use any other switching as Gator suggested in his first posting. It may be unlawful to have an independant switched circuit for lighting like that just as it is for fog light additions which can be operated only when the headlights are on low beam.

Grub Man, all you need to do is hook them up to the backup light circuit. That way if others are at the ramp, the lights will only be on when you are in reverse. A remote on/off switch will work but the backup light circuit is a better hookup.

Those same size lights will work better if they are on the ends of the bumper instead of at the hitch location. Make a set yourself and wire it to a 7way plug just like the whitenight version. Use magnetic CB antenna bases for removal or just mount the lights to the underside of the bumper. The boat and trailer block too much of the light for seeing the ramp edges next to the trailer wheels. You can see that in the whitenight advertizement.

Don't buy them, get the Octopus hooks instead. Been there done that, threw them all away.

There is a foaming spray oil called fogging oil that is used to treat the cylinder/s so they won't rust during storage. After you run the motor for a while with the fuel preserver, you spray the oil in the carb until it chokes out. Then remove the spark plug and fill the cylinder with the foaming oil while rotating the flywheel and replace the spark plug. Then change the lower unit oil. When you start it next year, there will be no mosquitos bothering you for a while and you may think the motor is on fire with all the smoke you will see. ;D That is the proper way to winterize your motor.