Wayne P.

Ann-Marie, what is your opinion on the additive that I posted the link to?

nick76, in that case you were concentrating on the most important communication at the time ;D

This may have been the bait. I got some at a tackle shop at Lake Fork: http://www.lockhartlures.com/chucknspins.html

You don't have it installed correctly, it should not move unless it strikes something. Water pressure should not move it at all. The centerline should be about level with the boat hull just like in the installtion instructions.

nick76, I have never heard of or observed any installation of a circuit breaker being recommended or installed on the negative (-) black wire of a DC powered system. All recommendations and installations I have read about and observed have the circuit breaker on positive (+) red wire of a DC powered system. What source gave you that recommendation? Skillet, here is a source for the breaker: http://www.iboats.com/Rig_Rite_12_Volt_Marine_Circuit_Breaker_with_Automatic_Reset/dm/cart_id.203764315--list_time.1230433008--session_id.345915525--view_id.47142 edited: My statement concerns the past 50 or so years as earlier there were positive chassis grounded vehicles.

The dual pawl and single pawl anti-reverse reels have a lever (pawl)and ratchet gear that prevent the reel from turning backwards much the same as the instant anti-reverse but there is some slight backward movement with the pawl type. My cranking reels for lipped baits are 3.8, 4.7, and 5.0 ratios.

Mine was installed at the Tracker factory and they put the rubber washers on each side of the outside of the bracket against the bracket. I see in the instructions about putting both rubber washer on the same end of the bolt with the nut. Make sure that the ratcheting parts are assembled against each other on each side of the transducer and the positioning teeth of the ratchets are in the notches of the bracket. Rearrange your parts like mine is done and tighten enough to squeeze the rubber washers at about 1/3 compression. Then test it for movement with some effort.

All GPS units I have seen show speed over ground (SOG) including the H2O. All four that I own show speed. The speed relating to flowing water is not indicated though like the speed sensors on some sonar units and speedometers on boats.

Garnet, what principal is involved that will not allow for doubling the amperage when connecting like batteries in parallel? I've never heard of that not being the case. Does the same principal apply when doubling the voltage when connecting like batteries in series?

I have one and it works great with Navionics software and LEI Hotspots. I always carry it with me when I am fishing with others especially if they don't have a mapping GPS. I use the larger combo sonar/gps units too. I use it for non water navigation also when hunting. I would recommend the H2OC though since it is color and has a higher definition screen.

This product may extend the life of your battery: http://www.batteryequaliser.com/products/pdfs/35Battery.pdf

My hand guns prefer the Federals.

schootermcbob, I can't reply to your last PM (function still screwed up and the suggested remedy still does not work) so send me an e-mail so I can respond. Thanks for asking purdum43@aol.com

shootermcbob, the PM function keeps screwing up. The picture you requested is at: http://charlottesville.craigslist.org/boa/940141952.html

Supposedly the best: http://www.lakeforktacklerepair.com/

A portable media player: mp4, jpg, video, FM radio, voice recorder Electric razor A couple of shirts Bass Tracker PT170TX

I only do it with braid and I do it by tying to a fence and walking away, around a tree, then another tree unitl I get to the end. Then I disconnect it from the spool, go back to the fence, tie on that end to the reel spool and reel the line in under tension.

BARON49, that was discussed over a month ago on a thread about rod tip groving and braid. Fishing in muddy water a lot has the most effect since the many fibers of braid will hold the water suspended sand particles. The sand particles are harder than most of the less expensive rod guide inserts.

Thanks Strike King, my perception must be incorrect. I don't record his shows so don't have the benefit of HD, slo mo, and replay. No, I don't have the blooper DVD.

That has never been a concern of mine. In the summer, rod locker heat buildup will probably cause more line damage than sun exposure.

Largemouth are the primary species that I target with the Silver Buddy. At the present time, the Silver Buddy is the only brand of blade bait I use.

Judging from the background, most of his shows are at non-public accessable phosphate pits in Florida. Those are the ones where he mainly has his boat in one position and makes numerous casts to a particular spot and catches 4#+ bass every time. If you watch real closely at the end of his show, you can tell that the "blooper" where he falls out of the boat is staged as you can see the rope disturbing the water that pulls him in.

"The wire going up to the TM switch" originates from where, how far, and what is the switch for?

If a fishing line has the qualities you are looking for, the cost if it should not be a factor. It is the only connection you have between your rod/reel and that high priced lure you have tied on. It will also be your connection to that fish of a lifetime when you hook it.

To make the cord last longer, before installing, treat the cord with bow string wax to reduce friction. Eliminate any rough areas that may be causing too much friction.