Wayne P.

Triton9, this year is my 20th year fishing Briery Creek Lake. I have never felt like I was in any danger doing so. Its not big enough to create any dangerous conditions from high winds. Why do you consider it "dangerous".

I've used them at Lake Fork and Lake Anna. I got a couple stuck on the old bridge support at the Rt. 208 crossing at Anna. They work very well. I remove the supplied hook and put on a feathered treble.

Another view:

Stormrider, I didn't until you asked:

Redhed, Silver Thread is a blended coplymer. It is not a coated line.

The only ones I use any more are the smallest size (about 1 1/4") for post spawn shallow fishing.

I've fished it several times and have caught the most in Trout Lake. The most productive area was at the end of the lake to the right of the ramp. The second best lake was Lizzie on the West side. Flukes or weedless wacky rigged Trick worms produced the best action.

You need to put all your batteries at the transom and then add a transom mount motor for extra speed or to at least have a keel to keep the boat from swinging around on you. The home-made keel shown in the website is a good alternative. Your boat's highest displacement is at the back of the boat and that is where the most weight should be. Having an on-board charger is a convenience but it is also extra weight that is not functional while fishing.

IMPY03, check the water temp at the ramp area and then at the upper end. Which ever has the highest temp is where you should spend most of your time. With colder daytime and nightime temps today and tomorrow, the catching is going to be tough. Falling water tempertures are a turn-off this time of year. Don't even bother to get on the water before 9:30-10:00 as the air temp is supposed to be close to freezing tonight. Good luck

First of all I would ignore a location like that at 7:00 A.M. and fish shallower. Then about mid moring check for that pattern.

I mounted the front sonar on my Tracker beside the navigation light fixture.

A weedless wacky rigged finesse worm accounted for my top three bass: 10# 4 pounces, 10# 5 ounces, 10# 6 ounces.

Yep, I picked on the ole bass again today. It sure was windy (at least 20 mph+). The water temp got up to 53 in some downwind areas and that is were the most active bass were. I fished the same areas as before catching them on the Chatterbait and Trap until about 2:00 and tried the weedless wacky rigged Trick worm in creek channels and caught 11 bass doing that. I had to hold my rod tip at the water's surface to keep the worm in the water especially on cross wind casts. I didn't catch as many as I did Tuesday.

When you go to the lake and the water level is normal, it looks pretty clear, but just under the surface is like this:

I started with a 10' jon boat-kept that, then got a 14' aluminum bass boat, then a 15' aluminum bass boat, then a 18' fiberglass bass boat, plus a 12' jon boat. I have since sold the 10' jon, 12' jon, and fiberglass boat, and now have a 16' aluminum bass boat. At no point did I ever feel that I had one big enough or fast enough. What I have now covers all the waters I fish the most or care to fish. If you want a short cut, get the largest/fastest boat with the biggest motor.

Its not hard to change. Here is the parts breakdown for the EXT and EXT Pro. You just need to order the EXT gears and replace the EXT Pro gears. When you take off the handle, and star drag, and side plate, just keep the washers in the correct order to replace them. The pinion gear is easier. I recommend that you get new drag washers too as you may damage the ones you have trying to remove them. Both have the same anti-reverse bearing. http://www.abugarcia.com/product_schematic.php?search=5600ext&id=&search_submit=Search+%3E%3E

30# braid

It is easy to check. Just put some water inside and place the transducer in the water with some weight on it. If it gets a clear signal return, then you can expoxy it in. The canoe material may have too many air bubbles in it for optimal signal transfer.

Quicker throttle control, both hands on the steering wheel, spring assisted reduction in speed are just a few of the positives.

Redhed, blended copolymers (not coated) on average are a more manageable line. I like the Silver Thread because of its smaller per pound test diameter for cranking and finesse presentations. It is comparable to Trilene XL in size. I would not classify any blended copolymer lines as tough. Tough to me means a harder, stiffer, larger diameter line. If you compare the diameters of Trilene XL and XT in the same pound test, they are different diameters with the XT having all of the before mentioned characteristics as compared to XL. The short answer to your question about Silver Thread being tough -no it is not.

Redhed, a fishing line advertized as "tough' means absolutely nothing unless it states what it is compared to. I have braids, nylon mono, co-polymers, and fluorocarbon lines that have one or more of the following words on the package:" low stretch", "excellent knot strength", "low memory", "tough", "strong", "low visibility", "world's strongest", "soft", "thin", manageable, and several other adjectives. I know from use that braids have low or no stretch, but I have some fluorocarbon lines and nylon mono lines that have low stretch on the package too and no way are either low stretch as compared to braids. P-Line CXX is the most unmanageable line with the most memory I have ever tried. Here are the statements on the package: extra strong, virtually invisible, extra limp, high breaking strength, great castability, low memory, soft and supple, high knot strength, increased sensitivity, extra abrasion resistant coating. About ½ of those are false as compared to most monos.

Once again marketing and ignorance is influencing some of your "preceptions" of red objects disappearing. Here are the facts: "Understanding how colors change at different depths and in different conditions is the first step, understanding what they change to and how to work with that is the next. In clear water, if you go down far enough a red object either appears unlighted or black. This makes since as clear water absorbs red light and eventually you can reach a depth where no red light reaches the object. The same thing could happen to a blue object in coastal waters, it could appear black. Even though red is absorbed faster in clear water and blue in coastal waters, all the colors are absorbed in water, just at different rates. So the farther you go down the less color is perceived. Plus, the further down you go different color objects all start to look the same color, the color they all look like tends to be the color that is best perceived in that water condition. For instance, if it was clear water, at a certain depth all the objects would start to look gray. So even before you reach a depth deep enough to make colors look black you can get easily confused between the different colors."

mayassa, are the Sound Bites jig and line attachment what you are referring to? Click, click, click--when they get wet. Yep, they were "revolutionary" "high tech" "calls in the bass from a long way". The only thing they called in was money from gullible anglers. My wife bought me a set of those-never used them as they would come apart easily. I haven't seen any in stores, they must have been banned by state game and fish departments, LOL

Zero

Some of those ideas are OK, but if you use bicycle wheels, the effort to move it will be a lot less over any terrain. The one I made a few years ago just utilized a 2" X 6" board with the bicycle wheels attached to a home made axle. I used a tie down strap to hold it under the boat close to the balance point. There was no need to turn the boat upside down so I could carry my stuff in the boat as I rolled it. I went thru several versions using lawn mower wheels, heavy cart wheels, to wheel barrow wheels before getting to the bicycle wheels which made the moving effort a lot less.