Wayne P.

For those that don't know, the Mistake color is red on one side and chartreuse on the other side. It got that name from a production error.

I have to admit I'm a wimp when it comes to extracting hooks. I'm headed to the emergency room for some local anesthetic before any yanking occurs and I won't be watching either, LOL

Shane, "everything I want and need" does not apply when it comes to boats. You will want and think you need a bigger, faster, boat at some point.

Bass4Me007, I have the same opinion, but I use it with closed face reels that I keep for novice anglers. The stiffness helps it spring off the reel spool better for that application. Incidently Fireline is not a braid so it is not as limp as a braid. It is a superline though made of the same filaments as a lot of the braids, but has fused filaments. Novice superline purchasers should base their choice on diameter not the pound test.

A lawn mower or motorcycle battery will start that little motor. I would base the battery size on how much other stuff it has to power, like a sonar, livewell pump, navigation lights, etc. A group 24 marine starting battery should be plenty.

The only reason to buy a motor of lesser thrust is cost. If you have the funds, get the most powerful one you can afford. You can always run the powerful motors slower, but when conditions such as wind or current overcome a lesser motor, you won't be able to control the boat. Having a stonger motor will get you to the next spot faster when pattern fishing rather than taking to time to pull up the trolling motor, starting the gas motor to move several yards (dock fishing is one example). The first thing I did when I purchased a new 16' aluminum bass boat is remove the supplied 12V bow mount motor and install a 36V motor. I dont' feel like I have overpowered my boat. I agree with Olebiker about the variable speed models.

Braided line is so limp that any technique is suitable for winding it on a reel. It helps to have tension on the line while putting it on the reel just like it does with mono. It sounds like you had the line spool on a rod of some sort without any resistance and got an overrun on the line spool that caused the tangle that you wound onto the reel. I can't imagine it happening any other way.

Jason, PM sent

100 Series Mistake 200 Series Mistake 300 Series Mistake

I grew up on a cattle farm that was bordered on one side by a river, had a creek down the middle, and had two ponds. Fishing was just something to do, I still do and have been for more than 60 years.

dman, in any freezing temp, the motor should be kept with the skeg perpendicular to the ground. That is to assure all water drains from the lower unit or if stored outside that no water will collect in it.

Too far out and the bow will lift too high (transom forced too low) getting on plane and may cause the prop to lose it's grip in the water, Too far in and the bow will be forced down and limit speed and contol. The optimum position without power trim, allows for a compromise of getting on plane and top speed.

That is one of those laws passed by the ignorant and supported by the stupid.

I use Serius Hyperlite gloves. Windproof, waterproof, breathable, very thin.

If your motor has power trim/tilt use the correct transom saver, then the motor will not rotate. Swivl-EZE Adjustable Head Transom Saver

Not only should you get at least a 24V motor, but one with digital variable speed (not a 4 or 5 speed). The digital motors are more efficient and will allow for longer run times. Plan on carrying extra batteries if you only have one launching location and want to fish the places further from the ramp. Getting the larger size (29, 30, or 31) would be a good idea too. Limit your navigation at the highest speed setting as that is the quickest way to run the batteries down.

Both of those lines were included in the Tackle Tour testing. Check the results here: http://www.tackletour.com/reviewfluorocarbontestpg5.html

Actually there is enough shape difference between the DT and Fat Free that they can be distinguished from each other many yards away.

With electrical shrink tubing 3/8" The top rigging is with the hook between the tubing and the Senko-it rolled over as I was taking the picture.

This is what you are looking for: http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?i=75869&pdesc=Adjustable_Frame_Mount_Transom_Saver&cname=Tie-Downs&aID=26H&merchID=1009&r=view

As far as I know every car/truck has flexible brake lines on them at each wheel. I would suggest you use the braided stainless one for your application. Any auto parts supply business should have them.

The BPS person is wrong about the internal antenna units being better. The only "better" thing about those units is an easier installation. The 2009 edition Lowrance units (HDS) are designed to eliminate the shortcomings of the internal antenna units. The 300 and 500 series internal antenna units could not be flush mounted and some users experienced reception problems if they used those units in a tilted position such as at the bow. The antenna location is where it will show your position regardless of where it is on the boat. For the most precise use for fishing, the antenna should be directly above the transducer.

"wouldnt braided line be to visible and float to much for a t-rig... i agree to use braid for jigs but not sure bout t-rig" Well, lets see: a jig has a hook and a weight made on to it. A Tx rig has a hook and weight that are separate-some peg the weight making it a jig. Both can be rigged with a worm, crawfish, etc. There are light weight and heavy jigs. There are light weight and heavy slip sinkers. In functionality they are the same. Why wouldn't the same line work with both?

30#-50# braid.

Friday, I had a big bass hang me up in some timber and had to break off a Rat-L-Trap. I had at least 25 more with me. I just tied on another one and kept on fishing and catching.