Wayne P.

No nylon mono is "significantly" better than any other. Some have different characteristics than others. The ones that have the least memory are usually the ones with the smallest diameter, the least abrasion resistance and the most stretch. The larger diameter lines of the same pound test have the least stretch, most memory, and highest abrasion resistance. You have to decide which you are willing to give up to get the performance you want. A simple example is to compare Trilene XL and XT in the same pound test.

The one piece frames just keep all the parts aligned better when the reel is under stress.

A good caster can get the chosen lure under, around, thru, or over an obstacle that may be the hiding place for a bass.

This type has a higher rise than the ones with the built-in seat mount: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KOOSAO?smid=A3AZEU1266GEG2&tag=nextag-sports-mp-delta-20&linkCode=asn

Don't worry about the drag setting weight, the reel doesn't have a drag system that will equate to the braid strength. Just set it like you are familiar with.

I throw 1/8 oz baits and lighter on baitcasting tackle with Abu C3 and C4 plus other brands with disengaging level winds. Your rod choice and casting technique will determine if you can handle the lighter weights.

The OMC motors have 3 speed settings and sometimes the lowest 24V setting is too fast for some conditions/presentations. I had 4 of those motors and wish they were still made.

Aluma-Bass, PM sent

I wouldn't advise you to use any size CXX on a spinning reel of any size.

I like the way it sits on it's hooks when on the bottom. I got them for bed fishing.

For bass fishing a 1/3 to 1/2 spool of braid is plenty. Just pull off enough mono to make room and then fill with the braid. You may have enough left over to do another reel or two. The braid will last for years or until you retie enough to get down to the connection knot on a cast.

I have 6 of them now and let 5 others go in boats that I sold recently. A couple were 4 years old and still going-going-going

It's the only fluorocarbon line I use after trying several brands. I hadn't noticed any tint until it was mentioned here. I don't think it is an added tint, just the characteristic of that particular fluorocarbon make-up.

Fished there again today in the RAIN and 41 degree air temp. The water temp was 47.7 The only reason I went was to show the person that bought my 12' jon how to operate it and also show him the lake. Only two other boats there. I almost lost a rod overboard when setting the hook with my COLD/WET hands. Everybody else had sense enough to stay home-LOL

Smallie4130, the 14# line rating you mentioned is not the pound test, its the amount of line in that diameter it will hold.

http://www.dancover.com/ The storage canopy model. It may take two of the narrower models place end to end for your needs. I used to set up those for handling auto disaster insurance claims. edited: I keep mine in the garage though.

I have all the bass fishing I could ever want within 2 hours of home. Rivers and lakes with smallmouth, spotted bass, and largemouth. Tidal rivers with largemouth and smallmouth.

A 10 ga. is more "humane" than a 12 ga. If you are going to kill them, don't be a wimp, use something that will get the job done. ;D

Oil bath hubs are standard equipment on some major brand bass boat trailers. RangerTrail is one of them.

The only Reaction Strike swimbaits I use are the Fathead Jr. I use the Tennessee Shad color. For the style you show, I just use the Storm Swim Shad.

The 10' Sears jon boat I just sold last year had a 250# rating. It had a 30" wide bottom.

I think with that much weight that you will feel and be safer with a lower center of gravity. Wear your life jackets, you will need them.

Anytime you make a cast and it bounces as it lands on ice.

I don't fish it much anymore. In past years I fished it a lot. I prefer to fish larger bodies of water where 10 boats is not a crowd.

Jimmy Houston also did the wrist roll cast demo on one of his shows about 20 years ago.