Wayne P.

When pitching, you won't have enough spool velocity to see any affect of braking. DMac is correct, spool control for low rpm is done with the tension knob.

Folshen, I use my boat about 1/2 of the time for electric only waters, and going slower is not included in my list of performace options. On the packaging of the prop it states "Open Water Speed and Efficiency". It may be more "Efficient" since it produces less thrust so it may relate to a lower amp draw due to less work. The "Open water Speed" is just a plain LIE since it infers that it is not slower or maybe is faster than the stock prop.

I haven't seen the uni-map on the 788 but all the uni-maps on all the HB units I have seen only include a very basic outline (colored blue inside the outline) of some bodies of water (no contours or depths) and a limited amount of highways. For any depth contours, you will need a unit with the pre-loaded Navionics software (NVB) or purchase the Navionics software separately.

The 30# Fireline Braid works very well on spinning gear-it has a 8# mono diameter. I use the Tracer so I can see it better than the solid green. I have it on two of my finesse presentation rigs. I do prefer the Stren Superbraid over any other superline so far (not happy with it being discontinued). MattinOK, you are not limited to 8# max line on your reel, your reel just shows how much typical 8# mono diameter line it will hold. You can use a higher pound test line and it will hold less, or you can use a lower pound test line and it will hold more.

Check this site for used boats once you have made up your mind on the brand. It will give you an idea of what is available in your price range-------- http://www.iboats.com/used_boats/boats--10/power_boats--100/bass_boats--1002/

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Pantera61, I use the Samurai Braid too. It has a smaller diameter than any other similar pound test superline and is softer (costs a few more dollars too). Neither of the 8 strand weave lines are as noisy going thru rod guides under stress as the "old" technology. The Sonic is similar to Stealth in the package, but ages differently.

I agree with the Fireline Braid over the PP. I use the Tracer so I can see it. It will lose some of it's stiffness with use. The diameter of the Fireline Braid is the same as the PP and Suffix in comparable pound tests.

Yes, there is a fishing pier at the North end of the lake (dam) plus a long shoreline area where the pier is. There is a boat dock( some fish off of it) at the mid lake area (Rt 701). Several fisherpersons have caught very large bass off the mid lake dock. One guy told me yesterday that he caught one over 6# the day before with a Tx rigged worm-he did not feel like fooling with his boat for a short fishing day so he just used the dock.

Earl Bentz (Mr. Triton) started the Javelin boat co and designed the Javelin hull. He liked to go fast too. The Javelin line was pretty much the "package" boat of the OMC Stratos line factory-rigged with outboard, electroncis, trolling motor, etc. HydraSports and Javelin bass boats used to be produced in the same factory in Murfreesboro, Tenn

Briery Creek Lake with a weedless wacky rigged Zoom Trick worm.

I did the speed test yesterday and the Safari prop went 3.5 mph and the three blade stock prop went 4.1 mph. I used the Safari first to get a full battery charge run to see if I needed to do a full battery charge test for each. Each was a 1 minute run to lessen any GPS error. The Safari will be my spare.

I use a Zoom Trick or Finesse worm about 99.5% when I wacky rig.

Yes. you will get more solid hookups with superlines. With the large hooks on the frogs and the long casts that most tend to make, the low/zero stretch will get the hooks in past the barbs. Superlines are the best line for any top water.

You need to have the shift in neutral to start the engine, then shift to forward or backward. When you move the shift past the normal gear engauging position, nothing else happens. You use the foot throttle then. You can rev the engine with the Hot Foot when the shift is in neutral just like in a car.

I just got a fishing report from a guide service on the Potomac River near Washington,DC. and remembered this thread. Here is part of it: "In grass beds, a black or green frog worked over the thickest portions of the grass had paid off with larger than average bass, and when the bass refuse to strike the topwater offerings, we have switched to a 1 oz. tungstun sinker and a 4" Berkley Chigger Craw and have punched the heavy weight through the mats, finding bass under the thick carpet of grass. We have found that in order to keep from breaking off bass in this thick mat, we have been forced to use at least 65 pound braided line, and Spider Wire Stealth has been our choice of line. As the grass continues to thicken, we will probably be forced to up our weight to at least a 1/1-2 oz. tungstun weight to punch through the thick surface grass."

The Bandit Footloose is another of those very shallow running baits.

Kistler

I haven't tried the Shock rods and did not know that Berkley has re-introduced a superline rod series again. Their Ultra Max series was marketed many years ago when the superline craze was first getting started and they had a superline called Ultra Max. I still have a spool of the 25# but have given all my Ultra Max rods away to kids just getting started in jr. bass clubs. Those rods performed very well with the superlines since their parabolic flex was suited for it. I think I had 6 of them and never broke any like I had with some of the stiffer graphite or boron rods in that time period.

Long Mike, I just revisited this thread and here is the info. I purchased some at an auto supply place (Auto Zone) I got the 4 oz can which should last me the rest of my life--LOL http://www.plastidip.com/industrial_solutions/Liquid_Tape_-_Electrical_Insulation

I received mine a couple of days ago and installed it, used it once, but forgot to get the speed with the three blade. I'll check both sometime this coming week for comparison. The only thing I noticed is that it doesn't disturb the water as much as the 3 blade when used at the same depth level.

guitarkid, I thread the whole Zoom trailer body on the hook so the head is against the skirt. That keeps it from sliding down as it gets used some. Rigged that way, the start of the hook bend is at the end of the body ribs just before the split. Taking off 1/2" would make it too short and decrease the grip it has on the hook shank.

THE best sealing of connections is with liquid tape after soldering the slice. Any other method including water resistant splices or water proof tape can and will let in water at some point because they dry rot due to ozone, heat, or wetting. Shrink tubing has the fastest breakdown time when exposed to the outdoor environment especially being wet. The liquid tape will last as long as the wire insulation and is as flexible.

Depends on where you seat is in relation to where/how you steer it. Gotta agree with Way2Slow, it makes no sense to have remote shift with a tiller steer. The motor is not so wide that you cannot reach the other side to shift when operating the tiller/throttle unless you have an extra, extra long tiller for stand-up operation like for some commercial applications.

I only use two types. One is the Zoom split tail trailer (white most of the time). Next is the Bass Buster double tail grub (white) when fishing in timber to lessen the hangups. With both I leave the skirt on. Some use a Zoom Fluke or similar soft plastic.