Wayne P.

The regular Octopus hook is way better. I use a 2/0 for finesse worms, a 3/0 for Trick worms, and a 3/0 or 4/0 for Senkos. Another is the Owner Mosquito hook which has the same shape but a slightly smaller wire size (largest available is 2/0) The circle hook is not a hook-set type of hook and you will miss most hits if you set the hook. It is a let-them-run-with-it-and-maybe-it-will-catch-them-in-the-jaw type of hook. It is a good hook for tournament practice to avoid catching many. It is also one of the best for keeping them hooked if a hook-up occurs. Its main purpose is for bait fishing to lessen swallowed hooks since the hook will pull out of the gullet and maybe hook the jaw as the fish swims perpendicular to the line of pull. Example of the 2/0 Gammy Octopus #02412 hook with a finesse worm for open water use and weedless use:

Zero here too, sold three boats and paid cash for new one. 2009 Tracker PT170

In the package with the fingernail test, it seemed less desireable to me than the former Superbraid which I like. It seemed more like Power Pro which I don't like.

When I rig the double fluke rig, I use a Super Fluke on the shorter leader and a Fluke on the longer one about 6" apart. The three-way swivel is the least troublesome with the least line tangling. I just use shad patterns. Doubles are common when around schools of bass.

Finesse worm

Both units have the same screen resolution and power. The X96 has a few more views, one of which is a flasher which is handy for holding over a drop-off since it will show the whole drop rather than one depth with the scrolling screens. Those that are used to using flasher sonar units will appreciate that view.

Nothing new about them. I got one about 15 years ago. The only difference I see is the color, mine is black. The are not so wonderful since the front of the hoop is too flexible and may cause you to lose a fish especially if used by someone not familiar with it.

I use 14#-20# fluorocarbon for Super Flukes and 30# superline for all other weightless presentations.

There was a East wind today when I was fishing a lake. Caught 51 bass. The only difference I could tell was the bow in my line was in the opposite direction than it was Monday at the same lake when the wind was from the West. I caught more today than on Monday and a larger average size.

Are all the them made in China now? I have two that state "Handcrafted in the USA" under the blank finish. I have one that has a sticker on the butt stating "Made in China".

Been there done that and the fish died from the effort. Many years ago there was a cicada hatch and the bass were keyed on them. The only way to catch a few was to "match the hatch" I started using a bass popping bug, usually fished with a flyrod, on UL with 4# line and hooked a 7# 5oz. largemouth. After the long struggle, I landed it, quickly weighed and released it. It just rolled over on its side and was dead. I had it for dinner the next day. While you are having fun, the effort of the fish to excape may very well cause its death. Other fish species are subject to the same fate, striped bass is one of them.

Most of my light rigs are set up with 12# or 14# mono backing ( it makes no difference what size it is since it only takes up space ), 30# superline, and if I use a leader, I use about 4' of 20# fluorocarbon. I have no issues with diameter differences. I use the uni-uni knot connection with 6 turns on both lines with the tag ends completely cut off (no knot slip or failures). I've been rigging this way since Spiderwire was first introduced.

I have the Fit Overs with the amber lense and the gray lense, 3 pair of prescription polarized sunglasses (green-gray-amber), and Cocoon clip-ons with gray and amber lense. I wear the clip-ons the most because they are just easier to deal with.

Soft plastic---30# braid or 14#-20# fluorocarbon Jigs-----------50# braid

The most popular color is just chrome. Paint or decorative tape is not necessary or needed.

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Chris at Tech, put 55 yards of it on two reels, or 55 yd on one reel and have 55 yds of spare. You will never cast or have a bass pull off that much line. Use mono backing to get the braid to fill the spool properly. Then you will have two rigs with line that will last for years. Braids that are packaged with 150 yards can be used on three reels with 50 yds on each. Still plenty for bass fishing. I have some 300 yards spools of braid- guess what------6 reels or 1 reel and 5 replacements. Another advantage of superline is when the line fades or looks worn, reverse it on the reel spool so it will last twice as long.

I haven't used MapCreate. The difference between Navionics and Hotspots is some bodies of water are not on both, the same body of water may have inaccurate positions on one and correct positions on the other, Navionics has HD (high definition-1'contours) on bodies of water that they surveyed-(not completely accurate at some locations on a particular body of water), one may have more detail included on some bodies of water that the other doesn't such as flooded road beds, stumps, bottom hardness, etc. The best way to chose which is to check the bodies of water contained on both to see if it has the ones you are interested in and the detail included. Ask someone that has mapping software for the particular body of water you are interested in for their opinion. Generally, the Navionics software is the most used.

Craigslist worked quite well for me and had the shortest time frame for inquiries, especially for boats.

If you want to see or purchase some tricked out old ABU reels, check Don Iovino's web site-he does some great upgrades/rebuilds A friend of mine has about a dozen that he fixed up, including a couple of grey 5500c models I gave him-Don especially likes to fix up the models with the tension knob on both sides of the reels like the 5500c

Is the transducer setup you have now suction cup mount and the transducer shaped like a wedge or the transducer shaped like a hockey puck? If it is the wedge shape, all you need is the kick-up bracket to replace the suction cup mount. If not, this is the transducer part number you need--- http://store.humminbird.com/humminbird-products/transducers/matrix-series/xnt-9-20-t/prod710198-1.html If your transducer is the wedge shape and the suction cup will hold on the hull at speed, you don't have it mounted in the correct location at the correct level. The transducer has to be wet all the time to give you depth readings all the time-in your case, it isn't. The wedge shaped transducer is the high speed transom transducer.

This site will help you-----http://www.geocities.com/heartland/lane/4448/models/5000.html On the right side of the page you can select other ABU models.

Not only will any newer units use the older cables, none of the newer units use the 192 khz frequency of the X25 and X75 so there are no adaptors to utilize the older transducers.

I throw it out and reel it in at a steady pace. Its a swimming frog so I swim it. If another retrieve is more attractive to the bass, I use some other lure.

Navionics does not have a paper map of Lay or Bankhead. Neither lake is on their computer software map product Navionics Hotmaps Explorer.