Wayne P.

Clean your battery terminals.

If you can get the curved jaw large hemostat (7 1/2"- 8" length), it is way better for hook removal than the one Bill Dance uses. The curved style is better than the straight and handles all hook positions.

A picture of the panel in my 2009 PT170 would be of no help. The wires are packed into less space than they should be for efficient trouble shooting, and there are several wires that go nowhere. I may at some point attempt to get a wiring diagram from the factory, but right now everything works like I want it to work-I think !!!!

For those that haven't had much success at Hunting Run in the summer: don't fish it like you would in the Spring like I see the majority of fisherpersons do. Rid youself of the bankbeater syndrome and present lures to where they are. At the best fishing holding structure elements, if you can reach the shoreline with a cast, your boat is most likely positioned right above the fish.

Are you using the large diameter mono to lessen the depth that the lure is being presented? If not, a superline in the same strength rating, giving you a smaller diameter, would be a better choice if the strength rating is what is the primary need is. With the L-O-N-G casts you mention coupled with the large hooks on big swimbaits, the very low stretch of a superline would be even more appropriate.

Since I don't do any break dancing on the front deck (Ike style), I have either a sit down or stand up seat up front. For flipping and pitching, I prefer the stand up seat for everything else, especially deep cranking, I prefer a sit down. I have lower back issues so some type of sitting/leaning is better for me.

Usually trailer tires are a low turnover stock for most dealers. Even though you buy as new, check the mfg date on them to verify that they are not already 5 or more years old.

My Tracker has a 27" motor mount deck and the trolling motor has a 24" total length mount. The mount hole pattern is 14" in length.

If you change out with original sizes, you can't go wrong. You just have to compare the stock hooks with the replacement possibilities. If you are unsure, just remove a lure hook and take it with you when hook shopping. After you do a few lures and get familiar with the size numbers, it will become easier to make hook purchases.

The hooks on Rapalas are pretty good as long as they stay sharp. A lot of good hooks will rust after sharpening. Some other lures have terrible original hooks (most inexpensive Traps-chromed hooks). Some have hooks that don't perform adquetely for ones taste (I don't like Triple Grips). Original hooks get dull from use or being jostled in a tackle box for years. Most anglers can't/won't sharpen a treble hook for best performance so they just replace it usually with a better quality hook than the original. Some change the hook size to modify the action or to allow for larger or smaller fish than the original hook is designed for. If your hooks keep passing the fingernail test you will be fine.

Hunting Run is closed for the three days because the county doesn't want to spend money for persons operating the boat rental/permit fee tasks when the taffic may be light. Well yesterday there were 4 owned boats and two rental boats on the lake. I hope they don't cut the operating days any more. I guess it will be completely closed about the middle of October again until mid-March 2010.

Braided line was my first thought when reading this thread. Are you using braided line and a spool full of it?

RW, your statement ""Collectors" or "enthusiasts" have interests that are not always measured in dollars and cents", could very well be spelled dollars and SENSE.

Do any of you ever fish Hunting Run near Fredericksburg? It is still full of little bass willing to bite all day long. Boat/electric motors are available for rent if needed. I saw several guys catching bass from the fishing pier. I fished it yesterday and caught the most during the middle of the day. If you modify your "beat the banks" pattern, they are easy to catch.

Your other question about if you need anything special to remove the prop--the answer is no just use your fingers, if you are strong enough, to turn the prop nut and pull the prop off. Some motors have the little hand prop wrench stored in the mount at the front. Pliers is a good alteretive. A new prop usually has a prop nut in the package, I recommend you use a couple of drops of blue thread locker when you install the new one. I had a brass insert prop nut come off and lost the prop the next day after I removed the prop to check for line behind it. I tightened it as much as I could with the hand wrench. Because of the prop loss, and I also had one of the prop nuts crack after bumping into a stump, I use a 3/8 X 24 nut and stainless steel fender washer in place of the Motor Guide nut. I also cut a slot in the shaft end to hold the shaft with a screw driver in case I break the shear pin. I took the picture before I thought of the screwdriver slot. Just trying to anticipate the Murphy guy.

You have a legitimate concern, but I see pop-up campers being pulled on interstate highways a lot with the 8" wheels. Rarely do I see one on the roadside with a wheel/tire problem. I see several N.J. trailers with 8" wheels at Briery Creek Lake in early Spring. I think your biggest concern would be the tires, not the bearings-carry a spare or two.

rubba bubba, by " sporting chance" do you mean you like for the fish to break your line and carry around a lure until they can get rid of it or until the hook/s rusts enough to get the lure free? The responsible angler will land the fish in the shortest amount of time and release it unharmed.

Falcon Clear Lake

They work fine if you stay in one place so the protective "fog" will be around you. If you are fishing in a boat and moving, they are worthless. To operate properly it has to lay flat and not upright in the holster on your belt. If there is a lot of air movement (wind) they are worthless also. I got one with a camo holster, you want it? I used it twice when fishing at night, the mosquitos were not impressed at all.

If your motor is the 3 1/2" diameter, the new Safari prop will fit it. It is supposed to be designed especially for working in the weeds.

I mostly use the high visibility superlines. My favorite is the former Stren Superbraid in the gold color. I can see it better than the green or gray superlines. The Fireline Tracer Braid is also easy for me to see because of the alternating dark green and bright yellow. The bass are not scared of it. Most of my spinning rigs have the 30# and I have a couple with 20# Stren Superbraid in the gold color, but don't use those much. Weightless plastics are my primary bass producers. I use heavier superlines for more heavy presentations on baitcasting equipment.

I've had dealings with them too. I have been in their shop next to Lake Fork Marina/Motel/Campground several times. Top notch service and fast when you need it. Another I have gotten motors and parts from is Foster's Trolling Motor---http://www.trollnmotors.com/ Fast shipping of parts.

For cleaning, try liquid dishwashing detergent. It will be "squeaky clean".

During late Winter to pre-spawn, I specifically pay attention to the surface water temp. Anytime the air temp is a few degrees warmer than the water temp, I check the downwind shorelines to verify that the water is warmer than the rest of the lake, and it usually is. On calm sunny days with the air temp close to the water temp, I check the shoreline areas with the most direct sunshine for warmer water temps and it usually is. During the spawn, I look for the water temp suitable for the spawn that may have been affected by a severe cold front or a cold rain. Post spawn until the Fall cool down, water temp is important to finding bass relating to the thermocline. Other than those senarios, the water temp doesn't seem to matter as much.

I use these on several of my rods rather than mounting a production hook keeper. The hole is for mounting the bundle with a screw. http://www.cabletiesplus.com/Products/5-Mounted-Head-Cable-Ties-(40-lb)-(Natural)__CP-5-40MH-N.aspx