Wayne P.

Shadmaster, if you add a MisterTwister Twin Curly Tail Grub to the Chatterbait, it will get less hangups in timber/brush. It works great at Lake Fork. A good knock-off with similar construction of the Chatterbait is the one on the *** site.

I was the one that did the Coppertone sunscreen test. I used the Sport lotion in 50 spf applied directly to plastic worms. It worked just as well and several "attractants" and definately did not repel bass. For most of the bass caught when using it, they would swallow the worm and swim off. "Not if you can feel a bite quick enough! Dont let the fish hold it too long because it will taste it imo." does not apply. Actually just the opposite occurs in that you need to set the hook quickly to keep them from swallowing it.

Alternative spoon---http://www.cabelas.com/p-0023712110855a.shtml Get the 1 oz. size in chrome, you don't need any color added to be effective

I you don't mount the transducer with the mid point even with the hull bottom (like the instructions indicate), you will not get a depth reading when the boat is on plane. Also pay attention to the rivet locations so you can keep the water flow from those away from the transducer location if you want on-plane operation.

Tracker aluminum bass boats come from the factory with a transom mount transducer screwed directly to the hull. Where I fish mostly, it only lasted until the second trip there. The screws at the bottom with the white outlines is were it was mounted. I now use a shoot-thru so the stumps won't claim any more. If you screw it to your hull, use marine grade caulking as a sealer and it will last forever. I mounted a transom transducer on my former 12' jon boat in the same location-a picture of that installation is a little too dark to see it well though.

Join the Side Imaging usergroup on Yahoo and you will get all the information you could possibly digest.

Good analysis Skinnyh2ofishin, the lures may be clear but they are not invisible.

Although it may be slanted in their favor, read this analysis of the composition props: http://www.piranha.com/show_article.php?id=11

Aluma-Bass, I need to do a rebuild on one of my fish counters. The thread has worn out from keeping count and re-settngs lots of times. It gave up Friday at Hunting Run, LOL

Zoom Super Fluke or Fluke. For a floater, the 3X red label version of the Super Fluke.

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Incheon Basser, I have been fishing many years with many different anglers and those tips were explained and demonstrated to me by a few. I'm just passing on the knowledge given to me that has proven to be productive.

Braid is the way to go with walking baits. Another trick is to file a shallow smooth groove in the lure eye on the bottom of the eye so it will keep the knot low and lessen the amount that the nose gets pulled down no matter what line type is used. A loop knot kills the walk more than a tight knot and so does a snap. A slack line immediately after the pull is the key to the walk.

If you like using Senkos or Swim Senkos in vegetation, get some Yamamoto Grub Guards. Put it on like a Tx rig slip sinker with the knot outside the lure body and knot inside the Grub Guard. Use a Gammy Skip Gap hook and hang-ups/sliding down will be greatly reduced. Another way to use the Senko in vegetation is put the hook in the skinny end. Its not as durable as the fat end but it slips thru the grass better.

The high thrust motors are the ones used on sailboats for docking. Very strong but very slow.

Last week when I was dropshotting, I was using a 7' medium action rod, baitcaster with 20# XPS fluorocarbon, a 3/0 worm hook, Zoom Trick worm, and a 3/8 oz weight. I'll be doing that again tomorrow. I go lighter like J Francho when conditions warrant, but never use less than 8# XPS fluoro with 20# braid.

That sound has been present even before monofilament line was invented. It indicates that the right equipment with the right presentation was used at the right place at the right time.

The Tracer Braid is the newer 8 strand weave which is quieter going thru the guides than the old style 6 strand weave like Power Pro and Suffix. All braids make that sound to some degree and it is more pronounced with the recoil guides than the insert guides. Get used to it and you will be happy, most everybody else is. Making that sound as you reel in a hawg is very pleasant, LOL

The rack (straight gear) is screwed onto the end of the push/pull cable (leave it attached to the cable) and you have to pull it up out of the track it is in so it will be away from the gear (round) on the shaft after you remove the tiny 6 screws from the rack cover plate. The instructions are for the rack and pinion (push/pull) single cable steering system with a plastic foot pedal. The Pro Tour models have a (pull/pull) cable system with a metal foot pedal.

If you don't want to go thru the bearing lubricating part, just turn part #14 clockwise some after loosening the set screw/s. Yep, just like doing a wheel bearing adjustment. http://trollingmotorparts.com/default.aspx?act=documentdetails.aspx&Documentid=92&category=Motor Guide Motor Diagrams 2004&MenuGroup=Home&SMID=195&SMSubID=57&nosearchprompt=1

I don't own either. From the specs, if both of your choices have the universal sonar, the Fortrex has more shaft length choices in the universal sonar models. It has a stronger/quieter mount, has lift assist, and has a quick detach motor feature. Sounds like a lot of good stuff for $147 extra. The lift assist alone is worth at least $147.

If you fillled the whole spool with braid and did not use backing or tape, you don't have to check, you do have ghost drag.

If you did not use mono backing or some tape on the reel spool arbor before installing the braid, you are getting "ghost drag". Ghost Drag is the slipping of the spooled line on the spool arbor which is common with braids because the braids don't have enough friction on metal to keep it from happening. Even though you may not have experienced it right after installing the line, at some point the line will get wet all the way down to the spool arbor and lubricate it enough to start the slipping, once it starts, it won't stop. If you use line lubricant, it will start sooner. edited: A simple way to tell if you have ghost drag is to look at the reel spool when you think your drag is slipping. If the reel spool is not turning and your line is, that is "Ghost Drag"

Agree with using Mend-It. Its a lot better than Pros Soft Bait Glue or similar super glues. You won't have the possibility of burning yourself either like with soldering equipment or butane lighters. The risk of using flames in a boat with gas fumes in the vicinity isn't one to take lightly.

50# superline sounds about perfect. It's diameter is that of 10# mono. 10# mono diameter line is not overkill for worm/jig fishing. It may be a little light for serious mat fishing though.