Wayne P.

I do it a LOT. I have a length of rope that is about twice as long as the boat/trailer. When I get ready to launch, I lay the rope on the deck to make sure it is not tangled and hook one end to the trailer winch. The other end is always attached to the bow eye. After I unhook the winch from the boat, remove the tie-downs, and the motor toter, I just back in the water slowly until the boat floats and then pull forward enough for me to get out of the vehicle and unhook the rope from the trailer. I then pull the boat over to the dock, shore, tie up and go park the vehicle/trailer. Loading back up, I back the trailer in the water until the support bunks are just under the surface and then drive the boat onto the trailer, hook up the winch strap, get into the vehicle and pull away from the ramp a good ways to prepare to leave.

Yes, use #10 wire if it is a short run of 5' or less. Use a larger wire for a longer run. Make sure you get a solid connection in the wire splice. If it is a foot control motor, just replace all of it from the pedal terminals to the plug. Less chance of resistance due to a bad splice.

Test the weight before you start fishing with it no matter which type you use. After tying on the hook, slide the weight up and down the line with the line at an angle to the weight. If you get fraying, don't use it. If you are real good with a Dremel tool, you can polish away any rough edges with the proper bit.

I use these http://www.basstacklemaster.com/Top-Brass-Peg-It-Rubber-Pegging-System-p/tbpeg.htm

I've never seen water too clear for braid when bass fishing. Trout maybe, but bass-no way!!!!

6 1/2' medium heavy spinning gear with 30#-40# superline. The bass's favorite presentation is a Zoom finesse worm rigged wacky.

I've had it happen several times and the cause was violent sneezing. A Spring pollen allergy is the culprit most of the time.

Thanks Another equipment suggestion is to get a digital video camera with a remote control that takes still shots as well as video. With that equipment, you can turn the view screen towards you and compose the shot before hitting the remote snapshot botton. Or you can take a short video, play it back later and choose which frame of the video to use as a still picture. The zoom range of a simple video camera far exceeds any manageable still camera. You will have a video camera with you in case the opportinity arises that a video would be a desired format. I had such as case a couple of years ago when a bear was swimming across the lake where I was fishing.

I haven't experienced that with any of the Chatterbaits I have. Thanks for posting about it. It sounds line the hole in the blade at the hook eye connection is too small or the plating/coloring on the hook eye is too thick.

The Live Magic Shad ???

Well, since no one has suggested one of the best presentations for that water temp: CHATTERBAIT

With the air temps in the mid 20's tonight, it's going to be tough tomorrow. The bass had backed off almost 5' Wednesday from where they had been last Friday because of the 5-8 degree water temp drop.

Yea Paul. The larger bass with the plastic worm did that thrashing around when I was trying to get it out of the livewell for the picture and holding the camera with the other hand.

When you close the bail by hand, do you run your palm over the spool edge to make sure the line is started inside the spool edge? Does the line have some tension on it before you start winding? I don't use wimpy superline, but with 30# you can usually just pull the knot out with some effort, wetting may help. If it does break, tie the ends together with a 5 turn uni-uni knot and the knot will be so small it will go unnoticed. I've been using superlines since they were introduced Anthing and everything that can happen has happened to me at some point.

Yes, check the other site, I was there yesterday. I know of a 12-8 that was caught there Friday.

Way2slow, the slowest speed on 24V with a 12/24V motor is usually too fast for calm conditions and an unnecessary disturbance when stealth is needed. Not hooking up the 12V is eliminating 1/2 of the speed control.

If you are getting them during the cast, that means that you have let some of the line wrap around the spool removal button or knob when you were winding in. That loose line on the spool front is your knot cause. Make sure the line is faily snug on the spool before you start winding. Close the bail by hand, do not turn the handle to close the bail.

Easy choice, just go fishing. The state record sized largemouth was caught electro-shocking last year buy the Game Dept. I fish that lake quite often--even yesterday, LOL.

This one was in 54.8 water temp

This one was in 49.7 water temp

Yesterday the red teeth syndrome for fish caught was about 50% for 34 bass. The bottom water temp ranged from 49.7-54.8 degrees. None of them were very bright red, but darker than pink though. This one was in 50.4 water temp

Learn to make a cast and stop the cast with your index finger on the spool lip. That will eliminate the slack line which leads to the so-called "wind knots".

My last fiberglass bass boat was wired that way, the jumper for the 24V circuit was inside the trolling motor plug. Send me an e-mail and I'll send you the wiring diagram for that set-up. Your 12/24V motor has just three wires. purdum43@aol.com

How is the receptacle wired for a 12/24V setup? Are there 3 or 4 wires from the battery compartment?

It works great. I used just one Big Foot switch to energize two solenoids wired parallel. When I push the Big Foot switch, the two solenoid contacts close and power two transom trolling motors.