Wayne P.

The lead used for fishing lures and sinkers are not water soluable EVER. Your vehicle tire balancing weights will never desolve in water either. Do a web search for lead soluability.

Explain how "less drag" with a prop is a bad thing. Props don't drag, they transfer power to the water and any air bubbles on the blade surfaces will increase slip. It makes more sense to have a polished prop to get max water contact. Even sharp leading edges on prop blades will promote better grip. Rougher surfaces on a hull or motor lower unit is a good thing to break up surface tension.

Check this Lowrance tutorial. It will show you how they are formed. Don't expect to ever see inverted V's on either of your craft. Although you may get some shallow ones from your feet. http://www.lowrance.com/en/Support/Tips-and-Tutorials/Sonar-Tutorial/

ffd, I don't have the Lowrance system, I have Humminbirds. I get exposure to the Lowrance stuff by exchanging operational information with a few Lowrance owners as we compare results.

The purpose of having the 2D transducer close to the Structure Scan transducer is for the overlay feature to work correctly. The guys I know with that system don't use that feature except for curiosity. Here is an example of the overlay of a bridge at Lake Fork.

Sure you can if you want to join the club of the deceased that had the famous last words, "Hey, watch this"

I've caught numerous 5#, 6#, and 7# bass on Chatterbaits with no problems with hookups or component failure. The trailer I use the most is the Zoom Split Tail trailer. I use 50# braid and medium heavy baitcasting tackle. To get the best performance with those type baits, a superline is a must. My best documented 5 bass limit of 30# 11 oz was on a 1/4 oz Chatterbait. The only copy that is close to the performance of a Chatterbait is the model sold by .. The hooks on those are a little smaller so I prefer the Chatterbait.

Just remember this: If you have MOO, you will have POO ;D

Use the rig shown in my avitar on top of the deep part of the weeds and work it just past where the weeds end.

Depending on the capacity of the livewell, it's position CAN be anywhere you have room. The larger the capacity, the further you want it from the bow. Figure how much water it will hold and multiply that by the weight per gallon to determine the location. Directly behind the front swivel seat looks like the prime location depending on capacity. The problem with outfilling a flat bottom jon boat is the lack of displacement at the front 1/3. Those hulls are narrower at the bow and the bottom is curved upwards towards the bow. All of that is less water displacement as opposed to semi-V or modified V hulls that have depth in the forward hull to make up for the lack of width and the upward taper. A friend of mine has a Grizzly 14' jon boat and those have a narrower bow than a regular jon boat so when he in on the bow fishing, the bottom of the transom is almost at the surface. --a kite in the wind with a couple of batteries and a small outboard at the transom.

No, keep the batteries at the back, because the boat has more displacement from mid way to the transom. Adding weight to the front with you on the front will make the transom sit higher in the water while you are fishing, When running the outboard, you want most of the weight at the transom for the best on-plane performance. Simple physics.

I was on the water yesterday and saw on my sonar display what looked like a thermocline around 20'. The max depth in that part of the lake is 31' and I was sitting in 22'. I checked the temp on the bottom and it was 61 degrees, at 15' it was 74 degrees, and at the surface it was 88 degrees. On the display the very beginning of the sonar returns was at 13' and the thickess return was at 20'. That gave me the pattern for that part of the lake. I fished the structure elements at the 12'-15' level. Caught a couple dozen bass doing that.

The bass boat I sold last year had one on the console and one on the bow. I have a new Lowrance 1240A that I haven't installed on my present boat. Still debating on that since I have three LCR units installed. I like the flashers for holding on channel drops since the whole drop can be see without moving around like you have to do with a LCR. I have a Side Imaging transducer taking up all the trolling motor mounting space now.

I have a 2009 Tracker PT 170 TX and have no trouble in the wind with the 36V trolling motor I installed. I rarely use an anchor. Where I fish most of the time I would never get the anchor back after deploying it---trees, stumps, laydowns. If the wind is over 15 or so mph, I just point the bow in the wind and keep on fishing. In the lighter winds, I use the drift as part of the presentation. "The wind is your friend"

I got one of those from a Barrister ???/about a supposed relative that had passed away. I answered back telling him to bring all the money in cash with him and fly into Dulles Airport. Send me another e-mail letting me know he was there and I would meet him. I told him all that money is mine and I would give him a $50,000 finders fee for expenses and I expected to have all the rest of the millions he mentioned that belonged to my dear uncle or whatever the relationship was. No response. About a year later I got an urgent -email from him stating he needed to get in contact with me for the original stated transaction of him keeping over 1/2 of the funds. I answered HELL NO, It's mine, I want it all, and my previous message still stood. No response. I think I got another from him a few months later, but I ignored it that time.

That line has been discussed several times on this forum.

bryand, that same site will have unit and transducer pictures posted too. Re-read my first response for a couple of options. The #1 factor in the transducer mounting position is that it HAS to "see" horizontally to the left and right with no part of the boat, motor, or hull attachements blocking the Side Imaging beams. If you want a list of the sites I know of that deal with that technology, PM me.

Every time I show my wife some of the snapshots I have taken with SI and DI, she says "that is cheating, the fish don't have a chance", LOL

The Side Imaging frequences are transmitted from the sides of the transducer. If you attach the transducer in a boat hull, the sides will not work thru the air. The SI frequences cover directly horizontal to a little more than straight down, The Lowrance Structure Scan transducer has to be externally mounted too so it can transmit and receive horizontally.

The shocking surveys have the good results because of all the shallow water. The fish don't have the option to go deep and beyond the range of the shocking probes. The results are misleading to the uninformed. Even when Hunting Run was first opened for fishing the max depth was more than 50'.

bassman, when I had 10' jon, I bought some boat carpet and glued it directly to the hull floor and up the sides. I made an aluminum deck (carpeted) about the same size as the little seat on the front so I could mount a foot controlled trolling motor and a sonar unit. I bolted a swivel seat to a piece of 3/4" plywook cut to fit on top of the front tank seat. Screwed that plywood to the tank seat. Before installing the carpet, I ran two 8 ga wires from the back to the front so I could have the battery at the transom. I ran the wires under the hull bracing. I mounted a duplex electrical outlet at the bow for the trolling motor and sonar and added the approiate plug to each. I cut another piece of plywood and added a swvel seat to it to use on the rear tank seat when someone fished with me. Lightweight partners only <150 #. When I fished alone I usually carried 8-10 rods laid across the tank seats with the reels up front.

They are all good boats, (don't know about a Pro Gator). Just pick the one that has the features you like. I would avoid the year old boats that professional tournament angler and guides have for sale now. A boat rigged like you want that is a demo or owned by a pro "wannabe" would be my choice.

Use at least 50# superline. It has a diameter equivalent to 10# mono. It will handle better than the lighter test lines. It doesn't matter how you spool in on. Remove about 1/2 of the mono you have now and add the superline on top of it. You use less superline and you need the grip of the mono on the spool arbor. The immediate thing you will notice is that you will feel the vibration better of the lures you use. Back off on your drag some and don't use a "cross their eyes" hookset, just a quick wrist hookset is all that is needed. The very low stretch will give you better hookups especially with the large diameter wire hooks on those baits.

Rick Loomis http://www.rickloomis.com/

The only thing I don't l like about mine is that I don't have another one. That is the best price I have heard of. The suggested retail price of them is $999 so the savings from that dealer is inflated some. It is one of the older ones since it has the Uni-maps instead of the recent issue Contour -X maps. Still a great deal though.