Wayne P.

philsoreal, have you ever heard of Spectra Fibers that Spiderwire and Power Pro are made of? Spectra and Dyneema are the two modern fibers that superlines are made of. Most of the very flexible superlines are made of Spectra. The stiffer superlines are made of Dyneema and the fused (not braided) superlines are made of Dyneema. Power Pro and Spiderwire have the course weave construction with 4 stands in the weave and that couseness causes the noise in the rod guides. The newer issues of braids have more strands in the weave, are softer and less course so they are not as noisy in the rod guides. The older Suffix is in the same class as Power Pro and Spiderwire. The newer Y6 Suffix is Dyneema and an in-between line as far as smoothness. The newer higher 8 strand count weaves like Daiwa Samura, Dawia Saltiga, Fireline Braid, and Suffix 832 will be quieter. The Daiwa braids are more honest in the lable strength rating so to equal the actual breaking strength of other superlines, you need to use a higher pound test rated Daiwa. The best way to judge the line strength comparisions is to go by the line diameter. An example is Daiwa Samurai 40# is 8# mono equivelent diameter and Spiderwire or Power Pro 30# is 8# mono equivelent diameter. The mfg cost of making the higher thread count weaves is why the newer lines cost more--they are worth it. You choices are (cheap and outdated) or (more costly and new).

If the reel spool has holes in it, wrap the arbor with teflon tape before installing the line. That will keep most of the water out of the inside.

Bandit-Mistake Trap-Baby Bass

That fastner is designed to go UNDER the surface that your seat is attached to. The tightening of the 1/4" bolt pulls that faster into the mounting surface and the "seat" is pulled towards that fastner. Basically the mounting surface is sandwiched between the fastner and the attachment. In your senario, their only grip will be the sharp points into the mounting surface and will easily pull out IF you can even get the points to go into the aluminum (if that is want your boat has). Do you have wooden seats in your jon boat that the fastner can be installed beneath? Your orientation of the fastner to the seat is backwards to it's function. That fastner is not a surface connection, but is a subsurface connection and not made for use in metal. You won't have to worry about it pulling out on the hook set, the seat will fall off if you even touch it.

The accuracy at a particular body of water is only as good as the map source. Even the HD maps with the 1' contours are way off at some locations because the survey crew does not chart every inch of shoreline to the deepest depth around the whole body of water. I know of several locations that a HD map shows a steep drop at the shore and it is actually a very gradual slope on a point. Most are 'generally" close but don't bet your equipment on their accuracy.

Different models from the same mfg and several mfg.

You livewell has at least two connections. One is the drain and the other is the pump/plumbing that puts water in it. Check the plumbing, and fittings, on both lines and check the pump itselt (the body of the pump may be cracked/loose).

The GT motors will start better if you have the top of the motor level. Push the key in and hold it in that position to activate the choke when first starting it.

SoFlaBassAddict, I just sent Shimano Corp. a message about a replacement bearing for the bushing and will post the replay when I get it.

This sign is posted at one of the lakes I fish. It is basically ignored by those targeting bass.

Since you did post performance figures based on GPS, I would guess you are under propped unless the boat was used for pulling water skiers. A higher pitch should improve top end. That boat is quite bulky and the hole shot will be slower with a higher pitch prop.

I only use them for bed fishing and use the blue gill color. Works great for that.

I had 30# Sonic break off yesterday with a medium diving Norman crankbait when I got a backlash. The line broke at the spool.

$150 is not too much especially if it is still operational. A replacement top cap with the directional arrow is about $70. The original price of the HO model was about $1,100

The LL Bean duck boots/shoes work great IF you treat the threads and leather with Sno Seal. Most of the production models are for looks, not functionality. That way you can LOOK like an outdoorsman and never leave your living room, LOL.

The shaft tension product is Troll Perfect.

I would have asked "are you having any luck with that shooting fish in a barrel test?"

Why did you choose the 12# fluorocarbon?

It probably comes down to the fact that Pure Fishing now owns Spiderwire which was the first small diameter superline after their now owned Stren brand that was the first superline with the Kevlar fishing line. The use of the superfibers for fishing line in the braided form may be the suit subject. All of those fibers were developed for the bullet proof clothing industry. Kelvar, Spectra, and Dyneema Firelne is the Dyneema fiber and Pure Fishing owns that too.

Yep, I had 4 of them. The best trolling motor ever made. Judging by the prop size, it is 56# thrust 24V model. It is an original OMC that can have a label with Johnson or Evinrude brand on them. They were shipped with both brand labels for the owner to apply whichever. The motor model number is on the foot pedal. You have the base plate sitting backwards to the mount in the photo. Some parts are still available for them. They are priceless to those that prefer them. You can probably find a few on E-Bay.

Dr., just Google these words------pure fishing suing power pro

Dr. Watson, I think you have the patent information incorrect. Refer to this article: http://blog...com/blog/bid/42262/Pure-Fishing-Sues-Shimano-over-Patent-Infringement

The number 1 issure with freezing weather is to make sure you don't have a damaged prop shaft seal that has let water into the lower unit. If you don't do anything else change the lower unit oil which will show you if the seal is OK.

burly is correct in asking what system you have. If it is EZ Lube, you can pump as much as you have time and grease to do it. The excess goes either into the axle or out of the end of the spindle depending on the axle type you have.

If you ship one to me for free, I'll test it and post a report--best deal I will give you.