Wayne P.

Dual combo units at a location not only allows for full screen views for some functions, it slso gives you a backup if one should fail. A technology difference is in play sometimes. Some like a flasher unit for on-plane depth readings and for boat positioning on dropoffs. My last fiberglass bass boat had a flasher unit on the console and bow and a LCR unit at both locations also plus an additional one that was a paper recorder before it stopped functioning. With the new Down Scan/Down Imaging units on the market, adding that technology is another reason to drain your battery. The little ole Tracker I have now has three units, two are Side Imaging and the other unit is a simple single frequency LCR. I had a flasher unit for the console but decided not to install it. You can't have too much information.

Note the title of this thread "installing bow fish finder"

Then a variable speed motor in the highest output 12V may be your easiest solution. Avoid using the highest speed setting because it doesn't use the electronic speed control circuit that saves battery power. I haven't seen advertized a Motor Guide foot control variable speed in a 12V model. There are hand control bow models and electric steer models with variable speed and 12V. Minnkota has a 12V bow mount foot control cable steer variable speed model Maxxum

Is Yo-Zuri Ultra Soft white or clear?

I could have been Spiderwire Ultracast Invisi-braid.

You will have a problem finding room for the extra battery. You don't even have room for two group 27 batteries. I have the 2009 Tracker PT 170 TX Your motor mount is factory installed with the rubber inserts. If the mount bolts don't come out due to the threaded part of the rubber mount being broken off (usually are), you will have to remove the panel that has the trolling motor plug. There is a hole to reach the underside of the deck but I couldn't get my arm thru it. I cut the opening larger so I could reach the bottom of the bolts and put large washers and nuts so those rubber mounts wouldn't pull out with the 36 V motor I replaced the wimpy motor with. I removed the gas tank to make room for batteries and use a portable gas tank. You can just get another Motor Guide and not have to remove the mount, just switch the motors. Batteries are your problem.

For those presentations get one of the models with the 6:+ gear ratio.

The Lowrance site shows a Mark 5X and an Elite 5X, but no Elite Mark 5X. Which one did you get and is it the DSI version? If is is just regular sonar, exchange the transducer for a trolling motor puck. Adapting the transom transducer for trollng motor mounting with the Lowrance TM adaptor is just a breakage waiting to happen. Do it right the first time.

I've had instances where it took a trailer hook on the trailer hook to get them.

The 4" ring worms are my most productive lures for tidal waters.

Yes,, once you learn how the images are produced. The color displays are easier to see in direct sunlight like you will have with it bow mounted.

I'm one that uses DI on the trolling motor and on the console. The most used view is the combo DI/2D. The DI helps interpret what 2D is showing but does not replace 2D for fishing.

Suffix 832 has 7 strands of Dyneema plus 1 strand of GORE Performance Fiber. That makes 1/8 of the line that won't fade. That is called marketing to the gullible.

I did recently. Zoom Trick and Finesse worms.

All superlines loose their color, some just faster than others. The material the line is made of will not absord colors so the color is just a coating. The line I have used that holds the color longest is the former Stren Superbraid. The Daiwa Samurai seems to hold its color a relatively long time also, I have some on a couple of reels that is over 3 years old and stlll has most of its color.

The stainless steel props are very strong, cost more, but a lot more expensive to repair. You can get your aluminum prop repaired. If you fish rivers a lot with similar hazards, your best option is another aluminum prop or Comp Prop as a spare. The aluminum will break easier and may save a repair job on the motor drive train.

Matching the screen scroll speed with the boat speed for SI and DI is a good setting. You can see directly below the boat with the SI view. That is the water column part of SI. I use DI to interpret what 2D is showing.

Do a search for Trolling Motor Repair. Contact one of the companies with youi motor brand, model, and serial number. Describe the part you need.

The same applies to SI/DI except with Imaging the sonar pulse is a thin beam front to back and from the surface to the bottom on each side. The lenght of time the sonar beam is on a return is a lot less. Still the very first horizontal row of pixels is the only real time return and all below that is history. How far a return is from the transducer depends on the screen scroll speed and the boat speed. A recorded return is still about instant with no perceptable lag. Any "lag" is the scroll speed which makes no difference except the length of time that history is on the display.

Good explaination Hot Rod. On the Lowrance web site there is a tutorial about understanding sonar and the fish archs are described. The right side of this image is the RTS (Real Time Sonar)

I use 40# superline for finesse presentations using weightless Zoom finesse worms or those worms on shakey heads. A yellow color line works very well even in clear water.

A lot of the Eagle units use a combo power cable/transducer cable plug. Most Lowrance units have separate cables

That "delay" is a very small fraction of a second. I guess that you know that sound travels about 4 times faster in water than air. Sound in air is 1125 feet per second. Sound in water is about 4856 feet per second. The rate that each sound pulse is transmitted (ping rate) changes automatically or is manually adjustable. The only "delay" involved in the ping rate is the time it takes for the pulse to be transmitted and received before the next ping is transmitted.

There is no "slight delay". When the sonar pulse cone picks up a return, it is displayed instantly on the first vertical row of pixels on the right side of the display. That return will stay on the display until it scrolls off the left side of the display as history. The distance from the transducer of that return and the actual location can vary according to depth, screen scroll speed and boat speed. The longer you wait after a return is first displayed to throw out a marker, the further away from it you may be. If the return doesn't repeat itself on the right side of the display, the return is not within the coverage of the sonar pulse cone and can be off to either side of the boat travel by many feet according to the amount of coverage the unit/transducer has at that depth. Depending on the depth, the outside perimeter of the sonar pulse cone is not directly under the boat and can be many feet away. Any return within that cone coverage is displayed and can the in any direction. Another thing to consider is the actual bottom coverage your unit has. The rated cone angle is at a certain strength in decibles. The actual coverage in lesser strengths can be a lot more and usually is.

Since no one has asked, is this trolling motor going to be your only source of power for those tourneys or is a gasoline outboard involved?