Wayne P.

I catch the most and largest during mid-day.

I fished it the first day it was opened to fishing when there was just a muddy road leading to the ramp. In recent years I can't seem to force myself to choose that lake over Briery Creek unless it is Winter.

I make my own balancing weights by purchasing lead egg sinkers in several weights and flattening them with a hammer to fit tightly inside the plastic chair tips. You need less volume than with quarters or the brass weights used in kits for the higher end BPS rods. All my brass kits have lead instead, it makes the add-on shorter.

BadBass, Switchfire gives you two levels of sensitivity settings. The Clear setting uses less power, picks up less returns and is used in less than 20' depths. Switchfire puts out more power and is used for deeper water and gives a higher sensitivity range if you want to see smaller/deeper returns. With Switchfire, you need to manually set the sensitivity level to choose the amount of returns you want.

Another setting suggestion. Set the SI/DI color to whatever looks best to you according to the ambient light. I change during the day. I like the brown for low light conditions and usually use the Amber 1 for a sunny mid-day. For seeing fish, I like Inverse and a Enhanced Sharpness setting of Low or Medium. A hint for the sensitivity setting for SI/DI is use it like a brightness control to get the best detail and that has to be adjusted according to the depth.

OSU, for the most detail, a close SI range setting is best so that the returns are larger. 3 times the depth is a good starting point. For general scanning 100-200 feet will show large returns and bottom shape, but a 12" bass at 100' setting is mostly unnoticeable. I usually start around 100 feet and re-scan an object with a closer setting to get more detail. I only use my SI units for fishing purposes. While I am fishing, I have my bow unit SI range set to 35'-40' so I can see fish easily and "sight" fish no matter what the water conditions are. For DI, I use the 10-13 sensitivity setting and adjust that according to depth. I use the wide beam setting. For 2D to get the most coverage, I use the 83/200 kHz setting. I use the Navionics Premium editions.

Shane, I have aleardy been catching some off beds there so you will find prespawn, spawning, and post spawn going on in two weeks.

I have the Bill Dance hook remover, but prefer curved jaw forcepts for any type of hook removal. http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=6937&osCsid=9816c813b83240f4b97ca4524a8a234e

Aluma-Bass, I used a 998 on a friend's boat and didn't like the data boxes on the left side of the display so I got the 1198c SI (data boxes on the bottom) and use it on the bow.

I have Humminbird Side Imaging at both locations and set the screen scroll speed on console unit to the idle speed, and the bow screen scroll speed to the speed I am going when fishing and scanning with the trolling motor. Both settings are changed as needed based on boat speed. The range of the SI beams is less on the bow than the console. The sensitivity settings are mostly the same. Usually dual beam 2D sonar.

Bass_Fanatic, this is what the Seafoam company has to say about what your "heard" Wayne I would have to say that this would be myth. Sea Foam is a pure petroleum product and will blend throughout the entire tank of fuel no matter when it is added to the fuel. Jim Davis Sea Foam Sales Co. Technical Service Advisor ASE Certified Automotive Technician

I use Seafoam with 2 oz. per gallon of gas. I get a 5 gallon can of gas and treat that, then use it in my lawnmower, ATV, small outboard, power washer, and chain saw. When I had a fiberglass bassboat, I used the same mixture in the boat tank and added the same ratio as I filled up. Basically I use it all the time all year. That mixture ratio takes care of carbon, and stabilization. Some of my stuff sets unused for up to a year and they start up with no problem.

Fiskar's Kid's scissors

Zoom Finesse worm

Keep your fuel treated with Sea Foam all the time.

Don't think so since the quad uses 455 kHz for the two sides and there is no electrical path with the Y cable on the 2D side for the two 455 kHz beams in the quad. The 455 kHz connection stays with the SI transducer using the Y cable. You can use the transducer switch TS2 W and change the unit transducer selection each time you switch transducers.

From what was described by a Humminbird tech, the computer in the unit can develope problems and fail to function properly due to the unloaded connection.

Steep ramps are the ones that require strong power loading. If you back in so far to get the bow close to the winch stand, the bow goes under the winch stand roller. If you get the bow roller height correct, the boat will too far away to crank it up the bunks unless you have a two speed or powered winch. Ramp design plays an important part in the need for power loading with carpeted bunks.

An explaination of the AS SIDB Y cable: It disconnects the 83/200 kHz frequencies from the Side Imaging transducer (XHS 9 HDSI 180 T) and connects a separate 83/200 kHz transducer in its place. Most chose the XP 9 20 transducer for shoot thru with that setup. The temperature sensor in the HDSI transducer is still used in the Y cable connection. A potential problem with what you described earlier of the shoot-thru not being hooked up to the Y cable is that the unit senses the presence of a connection on the 2D side of the plug and tries to send/receive a pulse on that connection. Without the transducer connected, the processor may be damaged trying to send the power to get those returns. It doesn't hurt the unit to run without a transducer or anything plugged into the transducer receptacle. In summary: if you have the Y cable connected, you must have two transducers hooked to it. If you continue to have difficulty getting on-plane depth with the transducer in the pictured location, move it to the transom beside the motor mount and install a shoot-thru for on-plane depth. Most pad type hulls like yours do not get good performance with a transom mounted transducer for high speed depth readings. Since the retail price of the HDSI transducer is about $235, most chose to mount it higher on the transom for protection from impact damage and have SI/DI for idle speed only. In the position you have it, you will get close range distinctive line echos from the part of the hull that is left and right of the transducer and you will be another blurry line on the left SI image from the water flow off the side of the pad. The transducer "sees" more than just horizontally and to the bottom, it "sees' to the water surface.

A properly constucted ramp is not affected by prop wash.

Why was a splitter cable installed? Which splitter cable is it?

I fished Briery Sunday and yesterday. Caught a few off beds yesterday where I could find some calm water due to the wind.

I use a weedless wacky finesse or Trick worm rigged like my avatar and it will produce bass from 6" to double digit size in any type of cover. All the bass I have caught in excess of 9# have been with the finesse worm rigged that way. The hook I use is the Gamakatsu Octopus in 2/0 for the finesse worm and 3/0 for the Trick worm. I would not use a Kahle style hook as a hook-set type presentation-too many missed fish. It's the next thing to a circle hook.

Get a XP 9 20 T transducer for shoot-thru. It has a remote temp sensor. It is listed as compatable with your 560.

Yes, your voltage is low. Charge your battery or replace it. You may want to upsize the starting battery when you replace it. A dual purpose battery with 1000mca is best suited for the needs of that unit and other accessories. Your unit may shut down when you start the engine due to the low voltage/low capacity you have now. If you haven't done so, run the unit power cord directly to the battery, extend it with at least 18 ga wire. If you use a glass type fuse, replace that with the spade type and a waterproof holder. Radio Shake has the holder and 3A spade fuses. Your transducer looks to be in a good location for SI/DI and 2D. You may get a fuzzy line next to the center line on the left SI view that is caused by the water flow off the side of the hull step. For some installations a ground wire between the unit power battery and the trolling motor power at the negative connection works, but in some cases it makes it worse. That connection is called a ground loop.