Wayne P.

You already have a good system. Just take enough and only the 3600 boxes in your tackle bag that cover the seasonal patterns for the waters you fish. In no case will you ever use everything you have in a day or two, especially in a tournament situation. Do your homework before hand. If you are constantly changing lures, you ain't fishing.

Only the XNT mounts can use that plug. In the SI transducer line, that would be the Compact SI transom transducer XNT 9 SI 180 T that is standard for the 300, 500 and 700 series SI models. The XNT 9 DI T is the Down Imaging transom transducer. This is the plug:

I hooked 13 of these bass and landed 11 of them before they quit hitting. I passed over them again after that and they were still there. 3# - #7 pound class. You can fool some of the fish some of the time, but not all the fish all the time.

There were baitcasting, spinning, and spincast models as well as rods. I still have a round and low profile version baitcaster and a "Spidershaft" casting rod. Not exactly top of the line equipment, but they were made to handle superlines at the time.

As long as I see them on my electronics. If I check an area and don't see any fish, I spend zero time there.

Jerkbaits simulate an injured baitfish. All species will be attracted to that no matter where, what time of year, or liquid water temps--doesn't work to well on the top of ice though.

The underwater "device" that transmits and receives the sound pulses is the transducer. Most all new units come with that unless you specifically purchase one that doesn't. The model number will indicate which. Go to the Lowrance web site and view their tutorial about sonar units, that will get you started with the interpretation process. http://support.lowrance.com/system/selfservice.controller?CONFIGURATION=1001&PARTITION_ID=1&secureFlag=false&TIMEZONE_OFFSET=&CMD=VIEW_ARTICLE&ARTICLE_ID=2967

You cannot do that with a cable steer model. His question was answered on another web site by a trolling motor expert.

http://www.madrivercanoe.com/education_portal/index/learn/repairing_polyethylene_cracks_and_fractures

Pretty much all models of all brands are "good" and made for the outdoor environment. As far as what craft they can mounted on, there is no limitations. You can use an innertube or an aircraft carrier. Your task is to decide what features you want, how much you are willing to pay for them, and how difficult it may be to operate. No matter which one, you still have to put in the effort to learn how to operate them and interpret what they display. The best way to find out what you would be comfortable with is visit a store that has lots of units on display, push some buttons and see what happens. Don't ask for or seek any help, do it on your own. The one that shows what you want to see and is easiest for you to operate is the one for you.

Yes, that motor doesn't have the soft start feature and the GO button is on the wrong side of the foot pedal, LOL. Good motor though, I don't like them. Additionally you took some of the power away from the Motor Guide with the Safari prop.

That is the whole point. If it lets water in, that means it is vented so it can be compressed. All it takes is shaking or squeezing the topwater every couple of casts. That is what it takes for a good performing lure.

The hollow topwaters take on water due to proper construction. When a fish takes them, they need to be compressed (let out air) to expose the hooks. The better models are the easiest to compress and provide the best hook-ups. Simple physics.

Flasher units are also best when positioned on a steep drop-off like a creek channel edge. You can see the whole depth change without moving around to get it recorded like with a LCR unit. My first flasher unit (in the 1960's) was a Shakspere unit that attached to the top of a dry cell battery. I've had many Lowrance and Humminbird flashers since then.

I use the 1/4" electrical heat shrink tubing on Zoom Trick and finesse worms (see avatar). I don't heat it with those worms either. If I want an exposed hook point rigging with those worms, I just insert the hook the same way as the Senko rigging.

I have a dinky 16' Tracker used as a platform for me and my electronics. The other sonar unit not in the picture is behind the console unit on the right.

For 5" Senkos and Wackos, you don't have to do anything but cut a piece and slide it on.--perfect fit with no heating or no tools.

3/8" electrical heat shrink tubing

It seems you are doing your search by price, not by function. A bargin is not a bargin if the equipment doesn't have the performance you want. You should decide what technology you want/need and then decide how much you are willing to pay for it.

You need to realize what features you are purchasing with the units. The Lowrance DSI units are ONLY down scan, they do not have traditional 2D sonar. The Humminbird DI units have down imaging and 2D sonar. If you fish, you need traditional sonar. If you just ride around looking at stuff, the down scan is good for that.

Lake St. Clair

Contact jonestrollingmotor.com

I currently use the BPS XPS which has been made by several companies over the past few years. The mfg of it before the current stock was so bad it was taken off the shelves (probably Berkley). The one before that one was the best. The current stock is a little softer and not as strong as two generations ago. Vanish is the worst fluorocarbon I have ever tried.

I have several that I won't use anymore. I don't trust them. I got fed up with sending them back for replacement when the blade arm broke off.

http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Liquid_Tape