The Bassman

Till they're opaque and flake easily.

I know the handle nut trick involves covering the nut with a sandwich bag. I would think the hex driver might slip if you do the same thing. My best solution has always been to keep the bit seated tight so it doesn't slip.

Red shad Culprits, buzzbaits, floating Rapalas, Slug-O's, and more. These would all work as well today. Too many choices. So little time. When I was a teenager it was either a Hubbard Sparkle-Tail (local crank bait) or a Gapen Hairy Worm. In creeks it was a #1 Mepps. Life was simple.

Honestly, I've been waiting for your input. Your knowledge is much appreciated.

I use the Jr. and have found that it needs a jig /swimbait head of some kind to run right and activate the paddle tail.

Maybe this is what you're looking for. Regular pumpkin (not green)?

Noticed yesterday we lost the Gander store in Castleton. Sensed it happening since it opened last year. Hope Greenfield stays open.

Thanks for the info. My whole concern arose from an incident last summer when I broke a tip on a Shimano Zodias (unaltered) rod. All I did was lay the rod over as I was landing a bass and the tip broke cleanly at the first guide. The rod was an E-Bay purchase so no warranty. Everything I read cites user error not defect as being the culprit. Never had issues before.

I don't particularly, but it beats watching football when your team lost last night.

What's better to do the day after a big snow than go fishing. Just a few fun size but better than sitting around. Guides icing up was the biggest hassle.

Funny, when I was a kid we used to fish pay lakes for channel cats. If you knew when the stock truck was coming you could limit out in a few minutes. Also, you see a lot of trout "ponds" at outdoor shows. They're not particularly shy to bite. Stocked fish get caught real fast.

I fully agree that modifying rod lengths is counter to their intended action and castability. I personally do not like a rod over 6'6" for a couple of reasons. For one I'm a shore fisherman and longer rods are not always convenient. Second, hand issues make a longer rod very fatiguing. Quality shorter rods are not the norm now hence this process. Thanks for your input. Not too many guys understand the mechanics of fishing rods (including me). My initial concern was borne in a thread about micro guides where a Mud Hole link was provided. It illustrated the closer spacing reducing stress at small points on the rod that typical spacing usually creates. My rod "butchery" creates a space of app 5" between tip and first guide, hence the concern.

I know some people that must have bass genes. My ex was a LM.

You guys spanked us bad. But one has to admit we turned a wasted season into something to be proud of. Moon and stars were just in the wrong place. When does Vinatierri miss a FG like that?

Thanks everyone but I wasn't trying to discuss rod action. I know that cutting a tip off changes diameter ratio hence no longer fast. I'm happy with the end result, wrong or not. My concern was how force was distributed between the last guide and the tip top because of the incorrect spacing.

Trust me from experience. A cut down rod has a faster and stiffer feeling even though it doesn't meet the definition of "faster". Thanks for your input on spacing, though.

I'm not repairing a rod. I'm cutting down a tip on a 6'8" Zodias spinning light action to make app. a 6'4" medium which doesn't exist from the factory. I know I'm spoiling the taper but I've done it on other rods to my satisfaction. My concern after reading a Mud Hole link on guide spacing left me concerned that the disproportionate spacing between the last guide and tip top might create concentrated stress under load. Thanks up front for your opinion.

Question for you rod builders. I've had more than on rod modified (once because of tip breakage) to create a faster and more compact rod. A couple produced good results. One that started as a heavier action turned into a pool cue. I have noticed that the spacing from the last guide to the new tip placement (position of the previous last guide) is longer than it would normally be. My concern is that this spacing places excess stress on the tip under load by not distributing stress properly. Any thoughts?

Again to quote the late and great Homer Circle: "Only the bass know and they're not talking".

Garden hose and toothbrush for guides and EVA. Denatured alcohol or magic eraser for cork. KVD seems to do a good job on my reels at the same time I spray my line. Also use it on rod guides.

Long range puts us back above normal so maybe this will be a redux of Dec. Posted about yesterday in Hoosier thread because I couldn't take a decent pic for here. Still shaking my head at the action I experienced just before frontal passage.

Got out this afternoon just before the cold front and had the best action in recent memory. On a whim I decided to go power instead of finesse, (The wind played a big part in that). Three days of 50+ temps got me thinking that the fish might be a bit more aggressive. Used a white 1/4 oz. chatterbait with fluke trailer slow rolled on the windward side and caught about 15 with half over three lbs. and two pushing five. No pics (I know, no pics or it didn't happen.) because it was so bright my flip phone camera was about worthless. We're going cold for a while with snow Sat. but I can't think of a better way to leave it for now.

I bought a Fuego LT as a sort of "beater" last summer and I can't feel much difference over my Stradics.

I like to say that if ignorance is bliss then I'm one happy camper.

I'm going fishing now because I believe the fish are biting.