MDRookie

Went out for first time with a new Motorguide Xi3 and struggled a little.. due to unfamiliarity and windy conditions. When I finally figured how to navigate to a waypoint.. it was around 20° off. I tried to calibrate GPS but not sure if it's recalibrating. When I hit M & 111 the Xi3 beeps and the GPS light goes off.. I do the circles and never see the gps light come back on. Is the GPS light supposed to go off after key sequence.. and come back on?

Hey Rod.. Yes I want to run two 36 volt motors off a single bank using a battery switch between the two. This transom motor is older... 90's. I got it from a friend who got it from a friend and it was working fine for him. I brought it to an "authorized service center" and he gave me a call the next day saying it was working fine for him. He said he'd leave it on the bench and show me when I got there. I was shakin my head the whole way there.. as I know I did everything correct with excellent batteries. So.... I get there and he turns it on and NUTHIN! I was like... there you go.. It didn't make a liar out of me! He flicked in on/off multiple times.. checked connections.. all the stuff I did and still nothing. I asked him to connect to 24 volts.... it started! He scratched his head and said don't know what to tell you. I said I hoping you can tell me you can fix it! He said it's too old and they don't have parts for it. I threw it over my shoulder and left disappointed. My friend and I thought capacitor as well. I don't think I'll be able to find anyone to work on it.... Thanks for your response!!

Hi all... hopefully I can describe this well enough for you to understand.... I came into this transom motor a few weeks ago and finally got around to wiring it up.. along with a bow mount on a single 36v bank using a switch. Transom motor didn't come on first hook up... but the bow mount did. So I disconnected bow motor from switch and connected the transom wire to that side of the switch and the motor ran. Shut it down and reconnected the bow mount to the other side of the switch... and it ran... but then transom mount wouldn't come on again. So.. I disconnected all battery connections and motor connections...reattached.. it came on. I let it run for a few minutes to see if wires get warm... they didn't. Switched over to the bow mount to see if those wires get warm... they didn't. Shut it off for a bit and came back to it 10-15 mins later. Transom motor wouldn't come on again. Rewired again... still nothing. So.. I cut all my connectors off that I put on to extend the length of wire to see if that was the problem... I then decided to connected the bare wires of transom motor directly to battery posts 36v... still nothing. I tried connecting it to just 12 volts and nothing. I was getting frustrated now! Walked away for a bit. Neighbor came over to assist and we checked under the head of the unit.. visually inspecting and checked the switch for continuity and what not... all was good. Then for whatever reason I decided to try it on 24 volts... It came on! I was like what the heck? Then I immediately moved the positive lead over to 36 volts.. it continued to work. I was like.. what the heck again. I removed the leads for a few minutes.. would not start up again on 36 volts.... but it will when I moved a lead to 24 volts and will continue to run when I move the lead over to 36 volts. I'm not sure what's going on... Can anyone explain to me why this is happening? It seems when I get it running with a jump start from 24 volts and let run for a minute or so on 36v.. it stays energized enough that I can remove a lead for up to 30 seconds or so and place the lead back on the terminal... it will continue to restart. If I let it sit for a few minutes... it seems to me that it discharges and won't start unless I hit 24 volts first. I hope this makes sense... Thanks in advance for any help

Hi.. where can the crucial be found for $80? Thanks..

I think I may have been a little slow in getting the tip on.. maybe the glue solidified a little too much.....

I saw this technique on the videos... Based on your reply you think the glue stick I picked up from Michael's should work.. This is an ultralight rod.. so I may be able to get one sliver into the pinhole of the tip tube.. lol. Thanks for the replies.. I will check out Dicks today for a repair kit.

Hi... Sorry if this is in the wrong section.. seems appropriate tho. Search turned up nothing. The tip on one of my rods snapped on a cast. I was able to get the broken piece of rod out of the tip top. The tip top will still fit the top section of the good part of the rod.. only lost an inch. I watched a few youtube videos on repairing a tip top. I went to Michael's craft store and got a stick of glue.. the high temp one opposed to the low temp. I scuffed up the rod tip, melted glue and rubbed it around the rod tip and placed the tip top on it. Let it dry for a couple hours... And.. with what I consider gentle but firm pressure.. I can twist the tip top back off. Is the hot temp glue at Michael's not good/strong enough? Thanks in advance for any help.. direction. :-)

This is not typical.. for me anyway. It took me 3 months to find one this size! :-) What made it extra nice was... it was a home made spinner with single hook.

Hi all... Thanks for all the replies! Pictured below is where I am fishing this time of year and I'm targeting brown trout. I have been using Fluoroclear because it's cheap. Most of the fish in this river are real dinks.. but two days ago I hooked the one pictured below, which took me completely by surprise! I was in a precarious position to work the fish.. on a boulder just wide enough for my feet.. 3' above the water. I had to reach for my line and pull him up to me. When I got him up and over to me... the line snapped right above the knot but thankfully fell to my feet. I'm not sure why the line snapped.. I tried some 6lb Fluoroclear on my 1000 Sedona and didn't like it. It seemed too stiff and didn't cast as well as the 4lb. It really coiled up more as well. As my member name states.. I really am a newbie and don't know much about the different lines. I'm not dissatisfied with the Fluoroclear as it seems to be working okay. Would just like something better with different characteristics. Something more stealthy, sinks, and doesn't coil up as much. At this time... I can get the best deal (dollar/yard) on 4lb Tatsu. Would this be my best choice based on the above information? Thanks again! *Edit* Where does Red Label fit into this? Would it be superior to Fluoroclear? I could try 6lb which is .008. This would fall between the 4lb and 6lb diameter of Fluorclear...

Hi, I've been using Pline Fluoroclear on my ultralights.. Sedona 500 reel and 1000. Would like to try something else that isn't too crazy with memory and has decent abrasion resistance. I've read that Tatsu is a great line but is not abrasion resistant.. is this correct? What else should I look at or consider?

Great info contributed.. Thank you! It was finally nice enough today to get out and try out the lures I've been making. I was disappointed with about half of them. I hoping someone may be able to tell me why they aren't working properly. The first group are all #1 Indiana blades and none of them wanted to spin. I noticed on the Mepps spinners I have.. that they use a different type of clevis and that they have a little more of a wire stem at the top... ? The second pictured lure doesn't spin at all... looks like a torpedo. It's actually the heaviest lure I made but it rises right to the top as I retrieve... I suppose due to it not spinning. The third one spins nicely but so does the body and has a wobble at the back end of the lure.. The forth has similar problem as the second.. not quite as bad tho... Any observations, input or suggestions are welcome... Thanks!

^^^Thanks^^^ I'll give it a try!

Hi.. Thanks for the info. Those look great. Do you use strait wire and make the loops at both ends? If so.. do you loop your hook on then do the hackle tie... then finish the body and blade? As for the beads.. I've am using the solid ones for my builds right now. Will see how they do. Can always take em apart and redo... Here's a few more

Hi.. Thanks for the replies. I will take a look at hackle and play around with the beads. Yes, I knew the hairs on Wordens Roostertails are on the shaft... just haven't gotten that far to give it a try. :-) I did use the hair at the base of the tail because I liked the color better. The hairs at the top do look to be a little finer but seem to be wavy. I've only tied two hooks.. so plenty more experimenting to do. I love making them and can't wait to fish them next week.. when it warms up a little bit. Hope they work! :-)

Hi all... I decided that I must make my own spinners.. due to the fact that I'm losing a small fortune on snags.. each time I go. Some wading pants would sure help the cause.... Anyway.. I made my first couple and I think they turned out okay. Hopefully I will be able to load a few pics. The first one being a brown trout rooster tail. My first question is regarding the hair on the hook.. I bought a buck tail and tied it to the hook and it looks okay but... the hair seems too coarse compared to the store bought one's.. like Wordens. Should I try or can some recommend something else? As for the second one.. I don't know.. just kept it simple. I used the heavier gauge wire where the lure body slides over the bottom. I'm not sure if I made a mistake by not leaving enough room to slide the body upward... so one could change the hook out if need be? This wire was much tougher to loop and bend than the first one! Also... I added a barrel swivel. I'm not sure what the rule of thumb is as far as using a swivel. Can someone tell me? The last two pictured are what I'd like to be Thomas Deadly Lure imitations. My question here is... would I use solid brass beads or hollow for the body of this lure? Or a combo of both? I bought both but only smaller sized hollow beads to use as a bearing. Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions...