Cranks4fun

I am cautious about that too, Tim, even though I feel sure there must be something to it for those guys at DVC to use the method. I'm not denying that it could work/ help, but I need to get a little understanding of the mechanics of that before I will be willing to try it. If my brain can wrap around the physics of the technique, I'll probably try it.

For braid, I always use the Palomar and I always double my line back through the hole instead of pushing the loop through it. However, for all you young lip-rippers that love the latest techniques and tactics, I did have this shirtless, well-rounded, Redman-chewin', catfish-snaggin' guy from just over the Arkansas border recently show me a fancy new knot that he uses to catch flatheads in the river. I believe he called it the "Dawg-ain't-gettin-loose" knot. It is too complicated to reproduce in writing but it involved 5 minutes worth of loops, pass throughs, wraps, and spitting. He said, "Now I can't get that wad of braid loose so I figure when a flathead bites it, that dawg ain't gettin' loose either!"

First of all, Thank you guys for taking the time to respond and share your Ambassadeur wisdom, Tim and DVC. Secondly, I did not even think about checking that copper plate under the tension knob. Tim, I did find a little oil in that brake drum area and I cleaned it off last night AFTER I was out at 10:30 PM casting in the front yard (Neighbors must think I'm drinking or doing drugs). I got up this morning and put on a 1/2 Oz War Eagle spinnerbait and it casted fine. It was either the oil or the low weight or both. I will check the plate under the spool tension knob. DVC, You said chuck the brake blocks? That seems like it would make it worse, but hey, maybe you're right. Could you explain how that would improve/ reduce the tendency to backlash to a ABU novice? My brain wants to think (and it doesn't do much of that anymore) that would increase the problem of spool overrun, but I'm sure there is a reason for you guys doing that.

Today I bought two older Swedish made, Abu Ambassadeur "One 5000's" for $15 each and they are in great shape, except that one constantly backlashes. I have lots of baitcasting reels (Shimanos, Daiwas, and Quantums) and they all cast well without backlashing (except for rare backlashes caused by user error), but I have not been able to tame one of these two Abu's. I have read that there are new brake blocks you can get for the centrifugal brakes. That may be the issue, but I cannot tell by looking. These are the older two-pin centrifugal brakes - I hear the make 6-pin brakes now. Any ABU specialists out there? I feel sure I could just cast heavier weights on the one reel, but it is backlashing on a 3/8 oz spinnerbait with 2 blades. That doesn't happen on the other identical reel. I really want to love these reels because they have a great history and they are durable. Any wisdom or advice would be appreciated.

Did you order yours online or buy it from a local dealer?

Yeah, I read that the scupper hole carts can actually cause leaks in some models so that idea is definitely out for me. I am already preparing to build a cart . I have bought nice 10'inch wheels with bearings and good traction. I have seem some awesome homemade carts for cheap on Youtube (Pvc, steel, even milk cart crates). The idea about paddling around first is a good one.

Yeah the seat was a deal maker. The Vibe's have awesome seats. I think I will make an anchor trolley. Lot's of examples on youtube. Thanks for sharing.

I am new to the Kayak scene but I have been reading and talking with some guys. I'm a week away from paying off my brand new 2017 Vibe Sea ghost 130 Kayak. I have a Garmin Striker 4 plus for it and it comes with a rudder system and a kayak paddle. I need a battery for the new Garmin (thinking an AGM battery rated 12 volts 9ah ?), I also think maybe a front Scotty rod holder, and I thought I might try to make anchor trolley and a cheap PVC cart. Is that enough just to get out and fish comfortably? Any opinions? Any suggestions on the cart, anchor trolley, or cheap places to buy this stuff? Thanks in advance!

I just stopped by Dunham Sports and found some old clearance Rapala Crankin Raps. I picked up one of the 5's (I already had three) but I'll go back for more. I have caught bass on the Crankin' Rap 3 Square bill before so I know they work. They had the 3's, 5's, and 10's- about 12 more total. If you have a Dunham's near by, check em out.

Hey, Crankers! I just got back from the Academy on my weekly run and I found a brand new crankbait that has never been available here at our Academy. It is not even on the Academy web site yet. It is a Knockoff of a Mann's Baby 1 minus with a WAY better paint job! Academy has had an H2O Xpress Wakebait for years ( I have several of those) but this is a different bait altogether. I have a picture of both so you can compare along with a 1 Minus and a Baby 1 Minus. The New H20 "Crank SS" is on the lower left corner below the H2o bronze Wakebait. It is a bluegill paint job. This is a Baby 1 Minus knockoff in bluegill. The only thing I don't like about the bait, and it is a very minor issue, is that the split ring in the nose is round now instead of oval like the other H2o's- not sure why they did that.. That is an easy fix though. Correction on the color: It is "Live Pumpkinseed"

Thanks, TOXIC for the reminder. I am going to put some hours in on my Spros in a couple of weeks. I try to fish slowly in cold weather but I can gear it down even more I'm sure. I should add my creek fishing (clear water smallmouth) choice of square bills. It is the CORDELL BIG O in the Brown/ orange crawdad color. I have shared this before here on BR, but that bait has been unbelievable for the last two years. I change the hooks out to triple grips and they catch fish. I have not done as well with other colors but I will try to fish the other colors more this year.

I have 1 spro little john and 2 spro little john md's. I have only fished them one (and MD and the regular) and I did not get a bite. I only tried for about 45 minutes. I have read great reviews on these lures and I love the way they look. I need to get out and run them again. I know flat cranks and cold water often go together (Shad Raps & Flat A's). Have you fished them in water under 50 degrees? I really want to try these Spros again. Domq, We discussed these earlier in 2017. Have you done well on the Arashi Square 3's and 5's. I have some and haven't caught anything yet on them but I have hardly used them. What kind of water conditions have you used them in, if you don't mind me asking. I have the flat 7's too. Got em cheap on sale! Haha!

I use lots of squarebills from April through June and occasionally all the way through October, but when the water gets really warm in July I tend to use deeper diving crankbaits more, like Bandit 200's or Fat Free Shads unless I am creek/ river fishing, FAVORITES? I like them all: Cordell Big O's, Rebel Wee-R's, KVD 1.5's, Lucky Craft RC's, Xcalliburs, Berkley Pitbulls, Luck-E-Strike RC2's, etc. MY MOST PRODUCTIVE squarebills in lakes and ponds, without a doubt, has been the H2O Xpress CRS and CRUL (Academy Store brand). I gravitate toward different colors for differing conditions but I love the H2O CRS in "Live Pumpkinseed" color. We had a three-man kayak tournament once and I literally cast that bait 5 ft. beside one of my competitors (we only do that among close friends to annoy each other) and pulled in two bass while he was dragging soft plastics and getting zeros. I love squarebills. By the way, it is absolutely NOT true that you have to bang them into structure or bottom to catch fish. I use that method when that is what the bass want, but I catch just as many straight cranking as I do rock and tree banging, but it differs from day to day.

Thanks, Bluebasser. I wish I could find a picture of these online to see what the color options are and the present value on them is.

I posted these pictures on a small collectors site and the guys were gracious and tried to help but I could not verify their guess anywhere online. One guy said "Roger's Slim Jim" but I cannot find ANY Slim Jim bait (and there are several) that look remotely like this and I have checked Google and Ebay. One looks very much like a Norman Razor bait, and it might be but it looks like it has rounder edges than the razor. Any guesses are helpful so I can verify date and value if any.

Thanks, KStooks and Avalonjohn44, for the info. I will look into those to get some history and reviews.

Just saw this and thought I would share my experience. I still use that Rapala knot but only on Rapala floaters and ultralight cranks. It has served me well for many years. I have started putting Eagle Claw OVAL 36 lb. split rings on most my other cranks. The reason is that I want to avoid tying in the split gap of the oval ring and on round rings it takes much more effort to avoid. In addition, as you use the bait with the round split ring, the knot can move into the gap increasing the chances of losing the bait. I use duolock clip too on occasion. I have used these in conjunction with split rings and I have noticed no issues. Some of my cranks (Timber Tigers, Speed traps, etc.) come with duo-locks and I usually leave them that way. I have never, repeat never, had on fail. If I were fishing for trophy stripers or spoonbills I might reconsider.

I love that Sisson bait with the weed guards! Haha! It is gadgety-looking but it would probably work well along some shallow weed mats where we fish. Thanks, guys, for looking into this. I hope I can discover the make of those baits. I will fish with one tomorrow to see if it produces anything. I suspect it will work better in a month with cooler water though. Please share any future similar discoveries. What a strange addiction these things are. Oddly, The single most productive crankbait that I have ever fished is the cheapo Walmart Bait Bonanza CC big O ($2.97). I have lots of good productive crankbaits but that one in my favorite color has accounted for probably 100 SM bass in 2 years. It seems to work well in clear streams and rivers only. I can hardly buy a bite on it in Grand Lake, OK or Table Rock Lake, MO. I doctor them up with good hardware and they really get hit in clear moving water! I am wanting another crankbait that will do that for me in the stained and clear water lakes. It is probably a pipe dream, but it is fun searching for one and experimenting.

Munkin, I googled Sisson baits and I cannot find any with a circuit board lip. Where did you see those? Me neither. I think I still have one or two old ones. I have a top water double prop lure of his too. It is like a long torpedo with a prop in the front and in the back, like a short devil's horse lure.

Yeah! Those are the ones I am familiar with too.

Crypt, You guys could be right. Have you seen any Lee Sissons baits with those glass, glue-on eyes? I would love to compare some pictures with what I have. I have never seen any Sissons baits like that, though. Then again, I have never seen cheap baits with circuit board lips. Storm Arashis are the cheapest I've seen with circuit board lips at about $8 retail.

Scaleface, I am familiar with Lee Sissons. He worked with Jim Bagley when they were in Florida and then did several of his own lines in various woods later. Very creative guy. I'm glad you jumped on here. I saw sometime back that you were a Rogers crankbait fan. This place I visit gets them in regularly. There are several Deep Big Jims? or Deep Jims? there now. I bought all of their shallow Big Jims after reading about your luck with them. Which size and color did well for you?

WRB/ Tom, Yeah they could be some other wood type. Thanks for trying, Tom. I even Googled images of balsa baits, flat custom baits, etc. I just don't see these online.... yet. I live in the 4-corners area of SW Missouri, near Arkansa, Oklahoma, and Kansas. This is historically a hot place for custom lure-makers, some small; some some fairly well-known. No telling if some small-scale guy made 500 pieces and went out of business with little record of his production. BaitFinesse, Maybe the lure maker will see them on here. Haha! BaitFinesse, I am thinking they are customs too, but I would sure like to know more about them if possible. I just changed to hooks out and added an oval split ring on front and tested them in the tub. The action is good (Rapala-esque- Haha!).

Croakhunter, Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I know my Bagley's fairly well and I am sure they are not Bagley's, unless it is some kind of a rare "custom" Bagley's unlike anything I have ever seen. I have lots of Bagley cranks -old and new. Strike King and Mister twister outsourced same balsa and exotic wood baits for Walmart and K-mart in the '80's. I have some. They are real inconsistently made but some will catch fish. Circuit board lips were very rare back then and usually only oh $$$ customs.

I am about 99% sure they are balsa. no rattles, light weight, and the setting of the lip - usually balsa baits with circuit board lips have an externally visible "set line" that has minor minuscule flaws (Think Rapala balsa baits). Plastic baits with lips molded in the bait have no set line (Bomber a series, Bandits, Normans, etc.). Circuit board lips on injection mold baits have to be inserted after the bodies are molded and sonic-heat sealed (like Storm Arashi and Spro Little Johns). My long-term experience tells me these are balsa. The barely-visible color behind the lip looks tan like balsa, not clear or white like plastic. On these there is also a thick paint or outer pre-fab shrink wrap coating (think Rapala shad rap and DT series and newer Bagley's). Plastics are not generally coated thick like that. Think of the difference between a Rapala Huskey jerk (plastic) and a Rapala Floating minnow (balsa) both in their old natural shad color. The hook hanger on the back is a screw in hanger like the non-brass Bagley's. Years ago, Bomber had screw-in hangers on their A-series plastics, but that has been decades ago. Yeah, I'm sure they're balsa. I will throw in another top-side picture