Cranks4fun

I am responding about two months late to this discussion but I too have a TAC 40 casting rod (original handle) and love it. I am not necessarily a fan of micro-guides but I can work around them and they do make the rod's swing weight a little lighter. Academy branded H20 xpress Ethos rods (blue) were/ are fairly decent too. I have a buddy who uses one as his favorite medium spinning rod and he likes it a lot. I used it and it is light, sensitive, and strong. As most of you probably know, the H2O Xpress crankbaits are awesome, second to none. I have Lucky Craft, 6th Sense, and tons of other brands of cranks and those h20 Xpress cranks (those that I've tried) are just as good in matching categories. In my opinion, I would match their squarebills and deep UL cranks against any in the American/ Japanese market. Now about the Academy hunting stuff.... ? eh? Some of it is cheapo and some not.

Surprisingly, the newer Asian-made All Stars that are marketed through Academy get very good reviews. Look up the yellow $99 All Star Nano II reviews. Their reviews are better than G. Loomis reviews!!! Haha! Even the All Star Classics ($50) are getting pretty good reviews. I guess I need torture test one froggin' in some heavy weeds or lily pads. I do miss my USA All Star Spinning rod though.

I have to admit, My Smoke HD and my 12-year-old Quantum Energy PT have both pleasantly surprised me. If you have fished them in saltwater for three years without an issue, that is a very good sign.

I had two of those All Stars made in Houston. A casting one (Im6) and a Spinning rod (IM10). I accidentally left my spinning rod down by a local creek ramp while helping our church kids load up some canoes and supplies and I drove home without it. When I discovered it was gone, I drove back down to the creek to find it and someone else had already found and taken it. I do still have the lower grade casting rod made in Texas but I will miss that Spinning rod. Both were/ are good rods.

First of all, all of the reels have been purchased this summer so they are fairly new to me. Secondly, I spooled the Tatula with 40 Lb. Sufix 832, and the Smoke with 40 Lb. Sufix ProMix braid, and the humble Curado K got 15 lb. Big Game Mono. In addition, I bought a left-handed Smoke (found a display on clearance for $59 as opposed to the reg. $199.99) and the other other two reels are right-handed. I am one of the lucky guys who can fish both right- and left-handed bait casters very well. I cannot do that with spinning reels though. I also have these reels on different rods for my testing: the Tatula is on a an All Star Classic Rod, The Curado is on an Quantum Tour rod (one of the older Really GOOD ones), and my Quantum is on a Lightning Shock Rod just for casting practice. Yes, I own Dobyns, Loomis, Shimano, Daiwa, Abu, and even some Ugly Stik rods. I have these reels on temporary rods for yard casting right now. Now that I have laid out some the variance factors and possible causes for inconsistencies to provide a more honest assessment, I will give you my impressions. These are obviously somewhat subjective because I don't have a lab with equipment for the accurate testing of tolerances and strength and spool spinning. Let me begin by saying, at this stage, all of the above reels are "good" reels so far. I consider myself primarily a Daiwa fan (except for Round reels-Calcuttas are it!!!) but I have and love lots Daiwa, Shimano, Quantum, ABU, Penn, Pflueger, and Lew's reels- both vintage, older, and new stuff. I have had decent luck with all brands but I do annual maintenance (lube/ cleaning) and spray & wipe down stuff used in brackish water which is very rare now that I live in the Midwest. So here is a summary of my casting and fishing experiences with these reels as they are presently spooled and mounted: Distance and weight- -The Tatula REALLY will cast 1/8 oz Ned rigs much better than the Curado K and the Smoke (the latter needs more testing though). It could be attributed partly to the line used but the Tat performed much better in this area. Again, much better! -The Curado K did did fairly well in distance casting when compared to with my Tatula using heavier weights (1/2 oz). It beat out my Tat by by approx. 5-7 ft. during actual fishing tests (casting on a lake). -The Smoke HD surprisingly casted further than both my Tatula SV and my Curado K consistently and considerably (by 15-20 ft.). Go figure??!! I have no explanation except to tell you what I experienced. As far as light weights are concerned, I need to spend more time with the Smoke. At this time it seems to perform about like the Curado K. As far as ease of use, - Curado -I had some minor "backlash" issues (just a few extra loops) with the Curado K at first but I figured out how to dial it in and it does much better now. -The Tatula backlashed some at first too with the 1/2 oz lures but I was swinging hard and high for the outfield with it. I got it dialed in pretty quickly too. I casts great now. I was shocked at how easily I was able to adjust the Tatula for casting light 1/8 oz lures. My casting distance was obviously shorter (45-50 ft.) but almost effortless, using and underhand roll cast. I think I could cast a 1/8 oz even further with more practice. - The smoke was dialed in from the start and performed perfectly. My son, who also owns a Tatula and and a Revo SX casted the Smoke and was very impressed too. He wants one! Drags: All of the drags seemed strong and are widely adjustable (you can go very light or very heavy) but I liked the drag adjustment star knob on the curado and the Tatula better than the one on the Smoke. The Smoke's drag knob just felt... ehh... cheap? It was very functional though. I did not test actual weights tied onto the line with any of these- sorry. Well those are my initial impressions. Things may change with time. Long-term durability is a big issue with me and one or more of the reels might show weaknesses in this area after some time. I guess I need to add that I also own a Quantum Energy PT reel that I have used on a frog rod on-and off for about 10 years. Up until now, it has been my longest (furthest?) caster. I have other Daiwa, Shimano, older Japanese Quantums, and Abu baitcasters but none would cast frogs as far as my Energy PT. Maybe Quantum has something going on right in their R & D department. ?

Like many things in the natural world, Bass populations fluctuate due to many factors, if I understand the research correctly. Temperature fluctuations, prolonged rain during spawns, chemical spills, droughts, low water fertility, high fishing pressure and keep rates, and other poor management practices can all affect a lake's population sustainability. I do think there are lakes that have seen diminished quality bass catches even among the pros in recent years due to high fishing pressure and the bad treatment of many of bass before they are released. There are extremely popular lakes, like Lake Fork in Texas, that get tons of fishing pressure. We read and hear about the trophy catch rates shrinking even though it is still touted as a top trophy lake in the country due to its history. This is somewhat anecdotal evidence but comparing lots tournament catches on those lakes over the years reinforces this belief. The game commissions in some states use electro-fishing as a monitoring technique to gets stats on bass populations in depths under 10 ft. or so. This is a more consistent way to get more accurate scientific records on population fluctuations and age classes of bass. Some of these states have stats on lakes that clearly reveal diminishing populations. Many other lakes have the roller coaster effect of bad spawn years sandwiched between good years. Those lakes, like Grand Lake in Oklahoma, seem to have a few good years then a few bad years and then they will bounce back, apparently because of maturing spawns from good reproductive years. The shad populations in some of those lakes are so dense and consistent that the food source alone keeps some bass from being vulnerable to being caught. They can stay inactive in more open water and feed on readily available shad at night when the picking is easy. There are lots of fish in those lakes, I believe, that will die of old age. Here in Missouri, the fish populations in clear Ozark streams are easily observable generally. In remote areas, where terrain and water flow limit the number of fishermen affecting the bass, you see a strong fish presence. Near towns, cities, and roadsides with easy access to the water, catching good fish can be next to impossible. Even seeing a decent smallmouth in those areas is rare. We call it the plague of bass eaters. There are weak-minded guys who eat nearly every bass they catch, totally disregarding state regulations. Selfish people like that are also prone to mishandle bass and treat them roughly, keeping them out of water for long periods of time so that most do not survive even if they are released. This has a serious effect on fragile smallmouth populations.

Just saw this so I'll jump in. I was a "Shimano fan boy" in the late '90's and early 2000's with a fleet of Curado 200B's, a castaic, and 2 citicas. I have learned more since then. The longest lasting and hardest working reels I own are Daiwa Capricorns and a Theory A series spinning reels. I have beaten one Theory 1500a around for about 14 years now with annual maintenance and it is still going smooth and strong. Fished hard and long with it. I even pulled a 45 pound spoonbill in with it a couple years back. I now have lots of both reels. In Shimano I have a Calcutta, two Curados, an SLX, a couple of older Bantam baitcasters, a Saros, several Symetres (various generations), 6 Saharas (4 FB's and some later ultralight Saharas). I have a couple of Sedonas and several cheaper reels too. In Daiwa I have a Zillion, a Tatula, a Tierra, an older Whisker baitcast reel, several pro casters, Capricorns, a Theory, a Whisker SS spinner, some old silver series ultralight Daiwas, and some cheaper Daiwas. BOTH companies make good reels and both companies put out a junker occasionally. I also have some good older Abus (Swedish) and Quantums (Japanese).

Well, first, I also do well with Senkos or other stick worms rigged wacky (green pumpkin/ chart. tail), but there are small lakes and ponds where the bass get educated to those oft-used tactics. This next tip might be a little unconventional, but carry a light or ultralight spinning rod (4-6 lb. line) with you when you fish. On very slow days, try casting a small, soft, curly-tail jig (1/32 or lighter) and cast & count down to the desired depth. When the depth is right, reel it in very sloooowly. I use tiny micro jigs but I also use roadrunners sometimes up to 1/16, or even 1/8 of an ounce in water over 70 degrees. I pull those a little faster because they stay down better. Fish generally pursue faster baits in warmer water. This small jig tactic will invite sunfish, perch, and crappie to entertain you but it will also catch bass, sometimes big ones even in high-pressured waters. In most larger lakes, the conventional bass tactics used on baitcasting gear will work, given time and persistence, unless the conditions are just dreadful (cold & muddy & post-frontal). On over-pressured bodies of water or on really slow days, if you just hate getting skunked and you want to catch some fish every time you go out, try this tactic. I think you will LOVE ultralight fishing! I included a picture of about a 3-4 pounder I recently caught on an ultralight jig. Good luck!

A-Jay, Thanks for the input. I use 832 on my Frog rod (40Lb.) and I love it too. The only drawbacks I can find for 832 are that it seems to fade in color more quickly than Power Pro and it is pricier (typically $2-$5 more for 150 yd. spool). The fading does not really bother me because I see no effect on its performance. This new ProMix is supposed to resist fading more than previous Sufix braids if that is important to some fishermen. My belief is that this stuff will replace Performance braid because I am not seeing that on shelves very often any more. I think the Sufix 832 is will continue to be produced ... I hope it is anyway.

I just purchased a new spool of 15Lb braid called Sufix ProMix Braid for a Smallmouth Finesse Rod I am setting up. I have used Sufix 832 and their Performance Braid and like them both but I bought this because the store where I found it had it on sale for $11.00 ($4.00 off reg. price). Let me add that I also use Power Pro on several spinning rods and it works fine too. From what I can find out, Sufix released ProMix mono in 2016 and this ProMix braid was just released this year (2021). This is a new ProMix line. My question is, "Has anyone had any experience with this new braid?" Any insight would be appreciated and I'll share mine after some in-the-field use.

My son has a Dobyns Fury 733c casting rod and I have two Dobyns Sierra 703sf spinning rods. He loves his Fury and I like my Sierra's but I am not sure my rods are worth $50 more than his. In addition, I am not sure I am giving you the best comparison because I am comparing Spinning and casting rods, but my Sierras seem more like moderate fast rods and his Fury seems like a fast action rod. It might be due to the difference in nature of spinning and casting rods. They are both durable and both use good components but my Sierras feel kind of heavy. I got my Sierras on a VERY GOOD sale! I probably would not buy them at regular price. Right now, if buying a casting rod, I would get a Fury Rod or a mid- upper end Daiwa rod or a St. Croix BassX. I would play with them all in the store first though. Again, the Dobyns Sierra Casting rods may be a whole different animal than the Sierra Spinning rod. I hope that provokes thought but I feel sure you will need more info. Good luck on your next rod choice.

I would say FIVE Things: 1. Never gauge your skill by a slow day or by comparing yourself to a pro on a video. Fishing is an ongoing, fun, learning experience. 2. Be smart about slinging hooks, landing fish with a mouthful of trebles, and directing your hooksets. Getting a hook in you can ruin a good day! Believe me, I have been there more than once! 3. Early on let others teach you what they about the fish on newer waters. Listen to multiple voices to get different insights. I have been fishing for bass for over 30 years and I still do this! 4. You will find that you usually fish best with baits after you have caught fish on them and have developed confidence in them. Don't be afraid to bring new lures and try new baits, but always keep a few skunk-killer confidence baits on hand. 5. Fish with and "against" your friends but never get so competitive that you cease to have fun when you fish. You can learn to enjoy losing to your buddies occasionally if you add humor to the experience. Losing occasionally also makes winning later that much more enjoyable.

I personally do not catch many smallmouth in still sloughs or real slow water in warmer summer months (water over 70 degrees) but I do keep getting them in moving water with some depth. Early and late in the day, in the summer, I even catch them in shallow moving water pulling fast baits. I have no real experience fishing for smallmouths in big deep (over 150 yards across) rivers though. Come to think of it, it does seem like I catch most of my bigger smallies in the spring, in water between 55 and 65 degrees.

Smallie Chaser, I used to live in North Judson, IN (20 years ago) and I know Kouts was very close to us. I fished Bass Lake near Knox, IN, and Lake Michigan and some canals flowing into the big lake. I was more of a largemouth, crappie, salmon, trout, guy back then but I know now that I missed lots of good smallmouth action up there. I still go back and visit occasionally but rarely get to fish. Any, Kouts and North Judson are both tiny worlds outside of the hustle and bustle of the cities. It was just interesting to see someone on the forum from there. God bless!

My smallmouth knowledge is limited to fishing in the Ozarks or Missouri, Arkansas, and Oklahoma. Finding slower water or seemingly "still" water on the edge of deep current is almost always a good bet for smallmouth in creeks and rivers. Aiming behind bigger boulders or laydowns in deeper (5 ft. or more) water with visible movement/ current is a good bet too. When directly fishing in the fast water, I hit the tops and bottoms of riffles with jerkbaits and crankbaits. I have caught decent smallies by throwing a hard jerkbait so that it faces up-current and barely pulling it as though it is struggling to move up. My knowledge is limited to fishing small rivers and streams though. I have never fished for smallmouths in those big, deep, cold-water lakes up north. I hope to one day though!

Crankin4Bass makes a good point. You need to test the reel with the rod for balance. If the tackle shop allows this, the best way to get a balanced combo, in my opinion, is to put the reel on your rod and go through the casting motions. Some say to put the reel on the rod and try to balance it by resting the rod (with reel on it) on one finger just in front of the reel seat or reel foot. I like the first way better myself. Some reels are heavier than others of the same size. My 3000 Saros is heavier than my 3000 Daiwa Fuego. I have a Quantum energy Pt that is a 2500 size and it is heavier than both the Shimano and the Daiwa even though it is classed as smaller. You can fish with an imbalanced rod/ reel combo and do so successfully, but it often leads to arm fatigue (and sometimes pain at the end of the day) and it makes for less efficient and accurate casting. Congrats on the new rod and good luck in your reel hunt!

Mine was a 9 lb. 3 oz. pre-spawn female on a Rapala jointed floater (J7). I was using 6 lb. mono on a Shimano Symetre 2000 reel and a 6 ft.ML Abu Garcia B.A.S.S. spinning rod. It is a great memory.

I went to my favorite sporting goods store today and bought my second Dobyns Sierra 703 spinning rod for $43. They were regularly $169.99 but they were/ are on clearance and you get an additional 50% off the stated clearance price now. I hope these rods are as good as some say. They also had Dobyns Colts and Fury's but they were not on sale. I also bought a G Loomis e6x drop shot/ finesse rod last week for just over $70. The H2O TAC-40 baitcast (micro-guide) rods are cheap now too (usually $129). The store the one that starts with an "A" and ends with a "Y". I am not sure if I am allowed to say the name on here, but get in there while the sales are good. I will post my last receipt pic on here to prove that I am not exaggerating.

Reading magazines & internet articles, watching videos, and fishing with other fishermen were all very helpful, BUT fishing ponds full of bass where success is likely was like going to bass school for me. Even the poorly skilled fisherman is likely to have decent luck on a good 5-25-acre bass pond (called "little lakes" in the southeast ). When you your confidence increases, as it does on most good ponds, you learn to fish with expectancy. You respond better to strikes, etc. Plus, you get lots of opportunities to correct mistakes like poor hook sets and inaccurate casting techniques. If you fish a big reservoir on a slow day when you are a new fisherman, it can be discouraging. You begin to second-guess your technique and your lures. Once you know a lure or a technique works well, you will fish it with more confidence and success, in my opinion.