Richieg

No doubt the owner 5313. A bit pricey but you will not be disappointed!

You are currently wired in series. You should also check your charger to see if it is compatible with lithium batteries, many are not. I am not familiar with lithium but if the manufacturer states that is not acceptable to wire in a series then I would follow that statement. If you have a demand for 24 volts you will need to provide that from your source. I believe they make 24 volt lithium batteries but I am not positive. Maybe someone here knows a safe way to tie the two batteries you bought together to get 24 volts.

My advice is to focus on upgrading your rod. Any reel in the $200 range is good and will do the job. But a better rod will improve your casting distance, sensitivity, and the ergonomics will be helpful during a long day of fishing. You will get the biggest bang for buck upgrading your rod. Spend some time with a Loomis or St Croix rod and you will be able to instantly feel the difference and it feels even better on the water. The best rod is one you have made to your requirements. It is worth the money. Whatever you end with, I hope you enjoy you new setup.

It is not the battery type that causes the issue. When both are connected to the same battery the trolling motor will interfere with Helix unit when the trolling motor is running. You will get incorrect depth readings and interference on the screen. If you will not be running the motor at the same time you are relying on the Helix it wouldn’t be an issue, but that is an unlikely scenario. Another approach might be; is there a smaller lithium battery that can used to power the Helix so that you are keeping it on its own battery. Something like a electric start generator or riding lawn mower battery. You may have to ask Humminbird this question.

Devcon 5 minute epoxy is your best bet. It dries clear and is hard as nails. It is commonly used by fisherman that make there own lures. You will need to continually rotate the lure until the epoxy begins to setup or you will get sagging. You do not need a heavy coat. A lighter coat will minimize any negative impact to the lure’s action.

With the Ned technique you will not always get the expected tap, so you should watch your line, or feel for resistance on the line (this is what I do). When you go to set the hook, do not “jerk” as you would with other soft baits. Instead use a sweeping motion. After a while you will be able to tell whether the resistance is from weeds, a snag, or hopefully a fish. Reacting quickly to the resistance will dramatically cut down on gut hooked fish and improve your hook up ratio. I agree with MN Fisher on the selection of equipment. I too use a smaller reel and a ML rod. Just make sure you set your drag correctly and you will have a blast catching all species and all sizes.

What material did you use to make the mold?

Hubbard lake is basically a big bowl with primarily a sandY bottom. There is not much in the way of weeds or bottom structure (rocks/timber, etc.). You will need to focus on the ledges and be prepared to fish deep. Good electronics will be very helpful if you have them available. There are a few points but I did not find them as productive when compared to 5he ledges. The water is gin clear and if the lake is calm you can easily see bottom in 20 FOW. As previously mentioned be prepared to drop shot but do not be afraid to fish top water even in deep water. The early morning and just before sundown is best for top water. To the right of the DNR launch was most productive for top water when I fished the lake. If you are going to be in the area for more than a day or two, you should consider spending a day on Long Lake. It is easier to fish and the SMB are above average in size for an inland lake.

The Bass Man is correct about salt water. The sound you are hearing is coming from the bearings, not the gears. I am not sure about the Lew’s reel, but the two ABU’S are not salt water compatible. If you want to continue using them you will need to do internal cleanings on a frequent basis in addition to rinsing them after each use. Ultimately you should transition to reels that are saltwater compatible like the ABU in-shore bait casting reel. They have gaskets that seal out water.

WD40 would be my choice as well. It works really well in removing tar & other adhesives and does not cause damage. However, I would not get any on the cork if there is any, it is an oil based product so the cork will absorb it and it will be darker than the rest of the surrounding area. Spray it on a rag and apply it to the tar spot and wait for a while before trying to remove the tar. You may have to do this several times depending on the amount of tar. Once you have the tar removed, I would clean the area with Simple Green or some other mild degreaser to remove the film WD40 will leave.

I have toren down and cleaned many reels. My experience when this happens is a shim (washer) is out of place. The schematic will tell you the correct order, most of the time. Sometimes schematics are not updated when new generations are available so you may have to do a little experimentation. Most of the time, the shims between the main gear and the handle assembly is where the issue lies. Also, if the reel body is a carbon based material, over tightening the side plate can make the reel out of plum so try backing off the screws a bit until alignment is achieved. Then tighten the screws the same number of turns, in the same order each time, to secure everything. The screws do not need to be super tight. This allows for flex as you use the reel.

I have Humminbird units and a MinnKota trolling motor with built in transducer. I never turn off the unit when the trolling motor is lifted and in transit to another spot. I have travelled long distances in this manner, and after four full years of service, I have not had an issue. Will it shorten the life of transducer? Maybe, but by that time we will want new electronics with all of the fun new options. ?

The remote is paired at the factory. You should only need to do this if you add a new remote.

I am interest in jig molds. Let me know what you have available.

You will need a machine screw small enough in diameter to fit your drill chuck and long enough to accommodate two nuts and your spool. Place one nut on the screw, then your spool, then the last nut and hand tighten. Secure this in your drill Chuck and you are good to go. Be careful not to go too fast or you will pull the reel towards you really fast. You will see the direction you need to start it on the spool once you pull a few feet off of the reel. I agree with CroakHunter that the two do not play together well. You may want to condsider using the flouro as leader material.