Vernon Utsinger

Use a pedestal and floorboard, see pics on post above.

My Bass Raider 10E and 5x8 trailer with 55# TM and other items is for sale. Purchased June 2016 and used 12 times. Going back to a Bass Boat. On Craigs list Dallas in "Boats".

I mounted mine on a block of wood tied to the Big Foot with plastic strips so it won't gouge the glas bottom but I use a floorboard. I rigged it portable so it can be removed easily. If you splice into the TM wires you will need it as the TM then only controls the speed not the propulsion.

Raider502: Nice looking boat and mods. I've had my 10e for about 4 weeks now and been on the water 4 times. I have a 5x8 Northern Tool trailer covered with 1x2 " plywood and a 1/2" plywood floor in in 2 pieces for easy removal. No carpet yet as I'm still making mods. to the floor for seat and misc. I built up the floor using 1x2 PVC board to allow space for mounting the base and reinforcement around the seat base. I used a similar pedestal as yours and a quick release base and a quick release seat base so I can remove all of it or just the seat. I'm leaving the rear as is except for a padded seat. I mounted the TM in the front with a detachable Big Foot and load the boat on the trailer rear end first. This allows use of the TM for unloading and loading and getting on and off the bank. This works real well. Now working on building guide ons of 1" PVC for back and front that will serve to keep the boat centered while towing. I like your winch setup and have to modify my tongue area to mount one. There is a cross piece on the V shaped tongue that restricts the crank handle. I'll remove this and run a 2x4 from the frame to the open slot under the hitch that will give me a straight piece to mount the winch. Also like your stop on the tongue. So far I've been using Military Grade plastic ties on mods instead of screws/bolts and nuts where I can for several reasons: no rust or loosening from travel, no loose metal to puncture the boat and easy removal when changes are made. There are some very nice mods posted on here that have been a lot of help in selecting, planning and preparation.

For those with experience with rudders on Pelican 10e or similar boat: What is the best depth for the rudder measured from the transom to the lowest point on the rudder? With a 36" shaft on the TM does 36" depth on the rudder seem right?

Looks nice. Is the inside width for the floor 20.5 inches and what is the total inside length of the 10e for the floor? What is a good thickness for stability for the floor? I don't have boat or trailer yet but these are things I can do before they get here. Can't get boat until I get trailer and assemble it. I'm going to start on deck with 4x8 plywood cut lengthwise and might as well get floor cut at same time. I have several pieces of metal and aluminum pipe and 2 license plates laying around so just need a way to mount them over the transom. I want to be able to raise or lower or remove the rudder so plan on using adjustable collar from TM. Afraid it might get knocked off launching/recovering.

Does it get any simpler than this? Real innovative etex. What you learn on here is priceless!! What did you use for the bracket over the transom?

Just joined and first post. Interested in getting into one of these and concerned about trailer with short tongue as you described. Could a receiver extension possibly reduce the difficulty in backing? Do you have a 10ft boat and if so does the extra length interfere with balance or turning? Are you using the fold up trailer from HF?