riverbasser

Fellow budget angler. I run an SI unit at the console and DI on the bow. It is also crucial for my fishing style to have GPS with map card on both units. Getting ready to upgrade to Mega SI at the console but won't be able to afford the size unit I want. I will probably be keeping the current unit this way I can have two units in full screen mode due to there small size already.

I'm ashamed I've never thought of this. It's rare she comes along anymore for fishing but i remember everytime I got the bite going I had to make a trip to the bank. This would of been so much easier.

For volume of fish crankbaits easily win.

Going off memory but I want to say brown. You know where the sensor is right? Should be on the head and easy to see. If not go on a parts website like boats . net and look at the breakdown. Look for the connector and unplug it, if the alarm still sounds it's a wiring issue. If it doesn't it's either a bad sensor or the in the short section of wires coming out of the sensor grounded.

I believe the alarm sounds by completing the ground circuit so look for a short to ground. I would start at sensor on block and work forward.

Thus far I would say the rage menace. Whether it was on the back of a jig or a swing head. It doesn't win by much though. Fish were funny this year and I had to really fish hard with a variety of baits to do well. It was rare to pin them down on something for whatever reason.

What's your reason for adding the split rings to the these A-jay? On topic yes I have had success bouncing keitechs along the bottom. Actually it is the only success I've had with them. Before discovering this I was just about to give up throwing them except for use as trailers. Rarely get any bites swimming them. Most bites are along the bottom or bumping through heavy brush. I treat them as a 4x4 crankbait.

It's not the tires or a balance issue. Wheel bearings must be torqued when installed to properly seat the bearing on the hub. Then they are backed off. Trailer tires are meant to be run at the max air pressure rating written on the sidewall. To check alignment run a tape from center of tongue to both sides of hub. Compare measurements and adjust as necessary. Plenty of YouTube videos that will walk you through both procedures. Good luck

I remember this topic. Dejuavue for a minute. Alot of my shallow-mid cranks will overlap depths since I dont mind crawling one along the bottom . O-5 ft - bomber 6A, 7A 0-8 ft - spro rk crawler 4-12 ft - SK 3xd 10-12ft - Berkley dregder 14.5 12-15ft - dredger 17.5 15-19ft - dredger 20.5 Any deeper than that an I'm probably jigging a red eye shad if it's a hard bait.

This along with Scratching my head, fish calls lol. If pleasure fishing I normally slow down. Tournament fishing I start fishing faster. Just depends on the day and circumstances.

My advice, go to the water with your skipping setup and throw it all day. Tighten the brakes to almost max and as the day goes on and you are getting better slowly loosen the brakes. This is what I did, even after learning to skip i still have to warm up a few times on a new day of fishing. Some things you just have to learn from trial and error.

Well you opened the door so I can't help but ask. Got an issue that's had me scratching my head for quite awhile. Got a 97 mariner that will crank and idle fairly easily first thing in the morning with a little choke. After stopping to fish for 30 mins or longer it is harder to crank than when I first put in water. If I choke it at this time it will flood. Always have good batteries and it has never not started for me but takes quite a bit of cranking for me to get started. One day my batteries are going to let me down. All new fuel line, rebuilt diaphragm pump, checked for intake leaks. Compression numbers look good. Dont believe it is a fuel issue. Cannot replicate on the hose at home. Makes me think it is something internally worn. Any thoughts?

If I can remember I'd be glad to measure for you this afternoon. Rough guess from memory would be around 8 inches

Everyone I know fishes them. Still see pros on TV throwing them as well. Plopper type lures are more popular though.

Certainly has helped my landing percentage when frog fishing. Still pretty weedless too. It does make the back of frog sit lower in the water though.

Power drive owner here. Agree with above foot pedals suck. The original I actually liked but they were prone to failure with dirt/rain intrusion. I now have to new style pedal and I hate it. Am really considering going ultrex but might go terrova to avoid having to cut my deck. I cant go back to the old captain Morgan stance. Terrova pedal looks way more user friendly with the foot pad config. The pedal is annoying enough that I refuse to spend the $300 on the spot lock upgrade even though i desperately want it. I will soon be kicking the bucket and upgrading complete unit.

To mitigate missed hook up percentage with a lighter rod pick up some lake fork frog hooks. Like a trailer hook built for frogs. Should allow you to use a lighter power rod without hurting hook set. Frogs are still very weedless even with this trailer hook for me.

Alright Fulton it is. Thanks all

Am I the only one who goes through these things about every two seasons? Gear on my current winch is slipping now. Any recommendations on a quality one? Tried several in the $50 to $80 dollar range models from the big retailers. All are the same so far.

Paddle tails for me as well . They look beautiful swimming through cover and around grass but it's like the fish see right through it. Cant figure it out. Good results using them as trailers though so not a total loss

Yes I have ordered from them twice now. No issues for me.

I dont know why I couldnt, but no I wouldnt. I think 2 would surely cover it. If it's your thing then do it. For example I run 2 identical crank and 2 identical jig rods. Why? Because that's how I fish and it was worth it to me to have both tied up with small variations to accommodate different water color, speed, ROF, ect. On a given day.

Why not just make the fees low. My local club is $30. Doesnt break the bank but is just enough to make a nice reward. Honestly most of us are fishing for points and the fellowship. Everyone wants AOY and to fish the annual classic. I suppose your idea would work but something about having some money on the line changes things. Even if it was 10 bucks. It's like playing poker for fun, it's ok but something is missing.

I couldnt say exactly but I believe his "older Helix is a G2. Maybe 2 years old. I am almost positive both the standard 7 and 10 mega are chirp sonar

Fished with a partner recently who had just purchased a Helix 10 mega. I was looking forward to seeing the upgraded imaging on Si/Di but what really blew me away was the sonar. We were very clearly marking groups of fish that his older Lowrance and Standard Helix 7 showed only vague globs that were undistinguishable. Anyone know what changed 2D sonar wise on these new units? I wanted a mega for the SI but the difference in sonar blew me away