jimmyjoe

Oh hell, no! I got two good ideas off this thread already and working on a third! ??? jj

There are two kinds of "successful". One is being successful in other peoples' eyes. That doesn't mean squat. The other is being successful in your own eyes. That's the ONLY opinion that counts. jj

For the same reason so many different sized girls all look so pretty, whether they're long and tall or short, whether they're stout or skinny as a rail. The girls and the rod manufacturers are both trying to do the same thing ..... get someone interested in them. The rods and the girls merit the same advice; don't trust what someone else says, try them out to see the difference before you commit. ? jj

Yes ..... and vice versa. Sometimes a slow retrieve won't draw a strike, but a faster retrieve will get hits. As always, the fish will tell you what they want and what they don't want. jj

Either get it or tell me how I can get it! Great crankbait rod! jj

Thanks for the post! jj

I never paid attention to test on braid. By far and away the most important characteristic for me was the manner in which the line would cast, would not backlash, and would exhibit knot integrity. That was chiefly related to diameter, but there were secondary characteristics involved also, such as flexure and friction. I've landed pike on 4 and 8 lb. mono, and musky on 10 lb. braid and 12 lb. mono. Any reasonable braid that will cast off a baitcaster has greater tensile strength (test) than I need to worry about. jj

Now the $64,000 question: For a nominal 12-lb. test line, how much pull (load) does it take to get to the threshold of elasticity? I'll bet it varies with different line formulations, but I'll bet one other point also, just from my experience pulling off snags and breaking lines. I'll bet that it's more than half the test rating. IOW, I'll bet it's MORE than 6 lbs. for 12 lb. line. And I never put 6 lbs. of pull on my 12 lb. lines while fighting fish. Getting off a snag, yes, but not fighting fish. jj

I live in Iowa, just a hair north of the Missouri border, and I'm a shorecaster. I've been catching bass on 2/5 oz. Dardevle spoons, 3/8 Bomber 14A twitchbaits and #5 Mepps Aglias. No light colors; all dark colors. All this is in lakes, no rivers. jj

What's funny (odd funny) is that pike are curious fish, and generally unafraid of noise. On sandbars in the river, I sometimes become absolutely sure that there are no bass on that particular sandbar. I'll high-launch a spoon, hoping that it "smacks" the water. If it does, I'll see some swirls that will head toward the smackdown. Those will be pike, and either they intercept me or I intercept them, but we generally meet in the middle and there's a fight. I do this when I'm absolutely sure that there are no bass on that sandbar. I'm usually absolutely wrong. Many times, I see smaller swirls heading away from the noise. Those are usually bass that I overlooked. Either I'm not a very thorough fisherman, or I'm not a very good fisherman. Or both. ? ? jj

I was under the impression that stretching nylon within the limits of its elastic properties does not weaken it. The nylon rebounds with no (or no appreciable) weakening. It also rebounds to the original diameter once stress is removed. Stretching nylon outside the boundaries of its elastic properties (into the plastic zone) will certainly weaken it. Yes and no. It all depends on what you expect. Nylon absorbs water over time; with fishing line this is usually several minutes. Once saturated, nylon is MUCH limper and more controllable. It's also, BTW, at a greater volume. (That's why some people spool line, go fishing for 10 minutes, and then notice that they've got a weird sound. The spool of line has expanded, hitting the foot or crossbar.) And yes, wet nylon is weaker than dry nylon. The percentage varies, and I've never seen it matter to me with line over 12 lb. test. So you never HAVE to stretch it. Instead, you CHOOSE to stretch it. And nothing is "wrong". One of the reasons nothing is wrong is that manufacturers formulate nylon with varying properties. Some is stiff and wiry (but abrasion resistant) and some is soft and supple. The soft and supple stuff won't need stretching or KVD unless you're picky. And some people are picky, and you might be one of them. Nothing wrong with that. Generalizations don't usually cover both picky and non-picky people. Horses for courses. And to throw another monkey wrench into the discussion, you need to remember that heat gives dry nylon a set. So if you lay a rod 'n reel out in the hot sun in the middle of August, you're gonna have a lot more problems. Try this: get a little spray bottle. Put a drop of Dawn dishwashing soap in it. Fill it with water. Just before you start fishing, spray your spool of line. Soak it. See if that doesn't make a big difference. 25 years ago, I used Stren original. I always stretched it. I use Stren Original now, too. The formulation has changed, and I never have any problems with it now. Things change. Good luck fishing! jj

Yes. Don't know how that got mixed up! Computer must be getting old and confused, too. ? jj

Been there. Done that. Advil can't kill the pain in my wallet, but I made a new friend. jj

Why do you want to throw your money away? jj

Ya GOTTA have a spinnerbait! 1/4 oz. on 8 lb line, 3/8 oz. on 10 or 12 lb. line. Chartreuse and white to start. jj

Starting a John Deere "B". Changing oil and spark plugs on a Dodge flathead every time you turn around. Keeping leather shoes resoled. Kitchen knives that would take an edge almost instantly ..... and get dull just as fast. Windows that would frost over in winter. Washtubs with a wringer in-between. Guess who ran the plunger? ? Chopping and splitting wood .... without a hydraulic splitter. Pumphouses that froze up in winter. Ever get a DC-3 ready for starting? A cup of oil out of the bottom cylinder. And I don't care what anyone says, anywhere or anytime. The greatest invention of all time is the flush toilet. No more cleaning out outhouses in spring. ??? Great memories, but you're right; I wouldn't want to go back. jj

I'm gardening, walking my fat butt off, and fishing if and when I can. I've also noticed something, something really odd. There have been times when I've smiled at people, and I noticed I actually waved to someone in the neighborhood yesterday. I help my wife, and I don't scream, cuss and jump up and down ...... as much. I'm ..... I'm .....almost civilized. If this keeps up, I may lose my union membership card in The Brotherhood of Crabby Old Men. I'm mystified. I just don't understand it at all. ? jj

Could you? Sure you could. Is it a good idea? I don't know, because I like MH/F for spinnerbaits, but M/Mod for buzzbaits, and I don't use chatterbaits. I need the "give" for the fish to actually catch the hook of the buzzbait. But for the spinnerbait (which I sometimes slow roll deep) I need a strong hookset. That being said, I got a rod for Christmas that might (maybe) satisfy the disparate requirements. It's a Mojo Bass Glass H/M at 7'2". We'll see .......... jj

Racquet tape. jj

I don't have any idea how sensitive they are, but I noticed one that I'd like to try where sensitivity wouldnt really matter. In the 2-pc. section of the casting family, there's a 6'10" MH/Regular rod that would be perfect for cranks and treble-hook lures. It's rated 1/4 to 1 oz. St. Croix has a 2-pc. Mojo Bass casting rod rated MH/F, 3/8-1 oz. I've handled it; it has a stiff tip. Imagine having both of these, storing them in your trunk for security. They'd cover any technique you wanted to use. You could go from sea to sea in the North, and cover quite a bit of the South, on a fishing vacation that would last all summer! What more could you ask? ? jj

This is correct. The advice to use braid is only a method to isolate the source of your problem. Once you're aware of the characteristics of your rod and the characteristics of your line, you'll need to make decisions regarding what you feel with your hands and the results you see when a fish strikes. Everyone has slightly different priorities. jj

Try braid. Compare it to the feel you experience right now. That should help you isolate the cause of the problem. jj

When you say "Senko", are you talking about a Yamamoto Senko? The reason I ask is that those are a very soft and easily destroyed lure. Yet you said that you'd yank the hook out of the fish's mouth. That means that you had no chance for the hook to pop out of the plastic so you could set it. That's VERY unusual for a Senko. One of their saving graces is the soft texture of the material, allowing excellent hooksets. The behavior of swimming around for a few seconds and then abandoning the lure also fits the pattern of a male guarding the nest. I doubt that small sunfish were trying to devour the Senko. Those little demons don't give up; the lure would be torn in two as quickly or more quickly than if a bass took it. The more I think about what you've said, the more I think Tom's assessment is correct. jj

Yeah, most of the feedback I have had on them has been from walleye fishermen, and they tip them with all sorts of stuff. Most of them look at me kinda funny when I tell them I want to use those lures for bass. But you're right; bass fishermen have used them, and with some success. They just never caught on. The replies in this thread make that kinda obvious. ? jj

I understand. I have mixed emotions about mine. It's kinda like an Austin-Healey Sprite; small, fun and high maintenance. You're right. I don't use anything lighter than 11 mil (.011") mono line on the Curado. On the Ray's spool I can go down to 4 lb. Stren. So far I haven't had any luck casting light stuff with braid. Of course, I'm a braid-hater, so take it for what it's worth. jj