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jimmyjoe

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Everything posted by jimmyjoe

  1. Sales impressions. The sales mavens think that people looking for greater efficiency will equate smaller size with greater efficiency ..... whether the specs bear that out or not. I think there are many people who put ride comfort, safety and reliability before efficiency. In today's carbon-crazy world, those people are painted in a very poor light, to say the least. Efficiency is the new power word, like it or not. jj
  2. I still have one 2500-size reel with 10 lb. Sufix 832 on it also. I don't use a leader on that one, although I did for all spinning setups with heavier braid. jj
  3. I have 3 Ci4+ reels (2x2500 and 1x4000) and one 2500fk. Basically, I use the Ci4+with mono and the metal FK with braid, due to the stress braid can present to the main shaft and bearing. I'm getting away from braid (dang stuff lasts and lasts!) and will go to all mono. Under that circumstance, I would go with the plastic reels. jj
  4. I'm a shorecaster like you. The only thing that's produced for me is first light. I've been out there at dawn, and a tandem spinnerbait and a nickel spoon have gotten me good sized fish. Probably other lures would, also. I didn't try them, though; I stuck with what worked first off. After the hot sun bore down ...... nothing. jj
  5. That looks great! If you're into a dining table next, you might want to consider this: https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/97414 Although it might be a little crude. Looks strong, though. It appears you have a fine eye for the finishing touch. That's not common, and it is valuable. jj
  6. I've been thinking about what the OP wrote. I especially thought about the 1/64th to 1/32nd weight issue. Why not use a short fiberglass fly rod meant specifically for bass? You could cast as light as you wish, and the fly rod and line would handle any panfish or crappie, and probably most if not all bass. Fenwick used to have a glass rod that was 7'-06", but I can't remember which line weight it happened to be. Might be interesting. jj
  7. Me too! ? jj
  8. I've noticed it more and more the last year or so. One point man, one or two flankers. The call-and-return format makes it a little more obvious. There have been solo efforts, though. Like I said before, everyone views other people through their own eyes. jj
  9. https://www.dwrl.utexas.edu/2016/11/15/the-art-and-rhetoric-of-trolling/
  10. The more info you give us, the more I think that your situation is due to one of two things, both of which have been suggested: Either your spool of line is weak, due to age or some other circumstance, or InvizX is inherently weaker than the other lines that you're used to using. If you know anyone who uses InvizX at the 12 lb. test, try and get a hank of line from them and test it the same way you tested the line that you have now (you said the line on the factory spool does not exceed 9 lbs.). That will give you your answer. If they test the same, then 12 lb. InvizX is definitely not for you. If they test differently, then you have a bad spool. Please get back to us with the info; I'd definitely like to know the results on this one! jj
  11. This may or may not help. This was done by our own @FryDog62. I bought into the fluorocarbon thing about 5 years ago in many respects because it is marketed as being "low stretch." I have a couple rods with no stretch braid, but also wanted to string up a few rods with straight fluorocarbon as a main line. I took a trip to Rainy Lake to target smallmouth. Lots of long casts, clear water, finesse plastics and spinnerbaits. Two of us in the boat, lots of fish and I had several long casts and hits. Whiff, whiff, whiff... I usually don't miss that many fish. My fishing partner wasn't missing and he was having a good time letting me hear about it. So I switched back to braid on one pole and mono on the other...and started getting solid hook sets again. Made me wonder about how much stretch was in fluorocarbon. Part of the reason I bought fluorocarbon was for its low stretch properties. Its no fun setting the hook with a rubber band. And yet that's what was happening to me. So, I decided to conduct my own independent test of 9 fluorocarbon lines versus 9 other mono or co-polymer lines. Many Fluorocarbon lines are specifically marketed as "low stretch." But compared to what? So, I decided to test them head-to-head in an effort to find out which lines truly were less stretch than the others. My results are below. I used only 8 pound test lines in this experiment. You could do a number of different tests but the one I chose was to max the lines out and see how they stretched when pushed to their outer limits. I used a 12 foot length of line and hung an 8 pound weight from it. Lowered it slowly. Most lines would reach close to their maximum stretch after about 20-25 seconds, so at 30 seconds I took the measurement in inches. Results are listed from least stretch (in inches) to most stretch. I don't have a horse in this race and am not sponsored by anyone...just an amateur in pursuit of a good low stretch line: All Lines Tested Trilene XT (Mono) 21-1/4 inches of stretch Yo-Zuri Hybrid (Co-polymer) 22-1/8 Sufix Seige (Mono) 22-5/8 P-Line CX Premium (Co-polymer) 23-1/2 Maxima Treazure (Co-polymer) 24-1/2 Trilene XL (Mono) 24-3/4 Tectan Superior (Mono) 25-7/8 Berkley Sensation (Mono) 26-1/8 Sunline Sniper (Fluorocarbon) 26-1/2 Gamma Touch (Fluorocarbon) 29-1/4 Original Blue Stren (Mono) 29-3/4 Gamma Edge (Fluorocarbon) 31-0** Bass Pro XPS (Fluorocarbon) 31-3/4* Stren 100% (Fluorocast) 31-3/4* Seaguar Tatsu (Fluorocarbon) 32-3/4 P-Line 100% (Fluorocarbon) 33-0* Seaguar Invizx (Fluorocarbon) 36-0** Berkley 100% (Fluorocarbon) 38-3/8 *Line snapped once and was re-tested ** Line snapped twice - length estimated Broken Down By Line Type 3 Co-polymer lines average stretch: 23.4 inches 6 Monofilament lines average stretch: 25.1 inches 9 fluorocarbon lines average stretch: 32.2 inches Line Diameter Line diameter can have an effect on stretch, but 9 of these lines all had the same diameter (.009 inches). Those lines are broken out below. The overall results are similar for the 3 different line types. P-Line CX Premium (Co-polymer) 23-1/2 Maxima Treazure (Co-polymer) 24-1/2 Tectan Superior (Mono) 25-7/8 Berkley Sensation (Mono) 26-1/8 Sunline Sniper (Fluorocarbon) 26-1/2 Gamma Touch (Fluorocarbon) 29-1/4 Bass Pro XPS (Fluorocarbon) 31-3/4* Seaguar Tatsu (Fluorocarbon) 32-3/4 Seaguar Invizx (Fluorocarbon) 36-0** Overall observations I had heard for years that Fluorocarbon line had less stretch than other lines, boy was I surprised with these results. Newer Co-polymer lines being marketed specifically as “low stretch” for the most part seem to be accurate. Monofilament tends to be somewhere in the middle, although those with a thicker diameter (i.e. Trilene XT .011 and Sufix Seige .010) did stretch less. Line diameter may have an effect on the stretch of certain lines, but overall, lines of the same diameter seem to reflect that Co-polymer and Monofilament lines still stretch less than Fluorocarbon. Fluorocarbon lines tend to break easier when stretched to their maximum breaking strength. Curious to hear other people's feedback and if they have had similar experiences. -Fry
  12. Possibly your mechanics are totally different. Sitting in a 'yak, you'd tend to use your wrist more, for the simple reason that you can't comfortably move the arm through a wide arc. Onshore, though, you can use the whole arm. And using the arm for casting is the birth of a multitude of sins. Go back to the bank and really check your casting motion with great attention. See if you can't cast the exact same way as sitting in the 'yak ...... and have the results be the same. Just a thought. ? jj
  13. In almost any true UL, you're going to have a "whippy noodle". Some will be worse than others, but an ultralight is by definition a very flexible rod. If it weren't that way, you wouldn't be able to throw those 1/32 to 1/16 lures accurately and with reasonable distance. I know it's maddening, but you can't eat your cake and have it, too. Good luck to you! JJ
  14. Please allow me to throw a monkey wrench into this conversation. I have 12 lb. InvizX on a Curado 70, and it performs fine. But one of the reasons it performs fine is that the rod is a M/MF crankin' rod. I re-read your original post, and you don't mention the rod that you're using. Personally, I would NOT put FC line on a hard-tip rod. I know, I know .... some people do and they have good luck. But I wouldn't. YMMV. Secondly: there are three methods for rating line strength. I call them American Underrated, American Accurate, and Japanese. American Underrated is like Big Game, CXX, McCoy Mean Green and Trilene XT. If you look at the diameter, it's in line with line rated at least a full step stronger. The manufacturer rates the line for the absolute worst possible conditions you can imagine and tries to insure that the line will come through for the fisherman. American Accurate is just that; an accurate rating for the capabilities of the line, but rated for American ideas of line use. Trilene XL, Maxima Ultragreen and Stren Original are some. Japanese rating are different. As you can see, American advertising of line characteristics is all over the place. There is no regulatory board with oversight capabilities. The Japanese domestic standards are (evidently) based on some sort of standardized tensile strength methodology. This results in a slightly more optimistic test rating than the American rating method. In other words (and I approximate here), 12 lb. test Japanese Domestic is equivalent to 10 lb. test American Accurate which is equivalent to 8 lb. test American Underrated. To muddy the waters even more, the Japanese have reacted to the love of some American fishermen for underrated line and are marketing line with tests not in line with the Japanese standards. One of the characteristics that American companies take into effect is shock strength. Shock strength applies both to the straight line and the knotted line, but the shock strength of the knotted line (knot strength) is much more obvious. That's one area where fluorocarbon falls behind nylon. A stiff-tipped rod would, naturally, make it a little worse. NO MATTER WHAT THE ADVERTISING SAYS, FLUOROCARBON IS NOT LIKE NYLON. When I finally chose 12 lb. InvizX, I mentally put it on a level with 8 lb. Trilene XT. I think I got that right. For use on a cranking rod, I like it a LOT better than Stren or Trilene. But I have no illusions regarding its inherent strength. I know it's rated by the Japanese system. I can live with that. ? So ...... maybe you'll want to go with 15 lb. test FC line. Maybe you'll decide you don't like FC line because of its reaction off a snag. It's for you to decide. Hope this helps you. jj
  15. I literally can't handle the Dock Sniper well enough to tell you that it is or is not accurate. The tip seemed in keeping with a Heavy power, and the knee of the action was in keeping with Fast action. More than that I can't tell you. Look at it this way: How apt are you to assess the intricacies of the thorax connections of a wasp ..... while it's in the process of stinging you? That's how I felt. The glass rod is entirely different. Part of the reason I like it is undoubtedly due to the fact that I'm used to fiberglass rods, and have been for many years. It wouldn't work as a dock sniper, though. Like I said, I'm falling apart all over. ? jj
  16. I did own it. Great rod. Used it for 5/8 oz. spinnerbaits and 1 oz. spoons. Found out it was OK for frogs (not toads; I don't fish toads) and magnum flukes. But I have a bad shoulder, and the acceleration with the stiff tip gave me problems. (Yes .... I'm falling apart all over. ?) So I sold it and got the 7'-02" H/M Mojo Bass Glass rod. It has a lot more "give", and I can cast much better. Both are excellent rods. jj
  17. I have no idea what you expect, either for weight/balance or sensitivity, but the Avid is far and away the better rod in my opinion. How much weight does the 2-piece construction carry with you, though? ? jj
  18. You may wish to look into the J-Mac musky swimbaits. I found out (accidentally) that bass like them. He's got 5" and 6", and they're quite durable. They seem to need a slightly faster retrieve, though. jj
  19. 7' H/F rod? For spinnerbaits and senkos ..... maybe. But for cranks? And then you're gonna add braid to the mix, with the attendant reduction in flex? I did that once. I learned my lesson ..... quick. Bought a crankin' rod and went back to mono. That's still what I use for cranks .... or any lure with a treble hook smaller than Musky Killer hooks. If you're bound and determined to use this H/F for cranks, I'd advise you to find the stretchiest mono in existence and use it. You'll need it, especially for jumpers. For Senkos, you're gonna have a slight problem with casting accuracy and distance if weightless, because a H/F won't load well enough. If you're in the kayak, it might (or might not) be OK. If you use a Carolina rig, you'll be fine. For spinnerbaits, I suggest you try the braid, but keep another reel of mono with you. Some people here like braid on spinnerbaits. Some (like me) don't. If you experience problems with the braid, change to the reel with mono right away and compare results. You'll find out what YOU like and don't like fairly quickly and easily. Good luck! jj
  20. I fish nylon a lot. The 2500 size is the smallest I would use, due to line memory/flexure problems. If weight is no problem for him, try a Daiwa BG2500; it's strong, smooth and easy to maintain. Tell him I wish him good luck! jj
  21. You just said a mouthful! My car is 12 y.o. and has 148,000 miles ..... And I'll run it 'til it dies. Or I die. Whichever. ?? jj
  22. Absolutely true. Many people have too high a set of expectations. Nothing is perfect. jj
  23. I use non-metal leaders two ways: first is knotted (I use a Crazy Alberto knot) and the second is tied to either a ball bearing swivel or a split ring. I can make the first as long as I want. I've tried in the past to roll the knot onto the reel, but that doesn't work the best. I've settled on about 3 feet of length max. The second uses a leader that's max of 18", because the swivel or ring won't go into the tiptop .... nor would I want it to. I use this when I want to change leader material often or quickly. I know Alberto Knie says he can tie his knot on the high seas and in the dark. That's fine, but I'm not Alberto Knie. I prefer the swivel. jj
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