jimmyjoe

elicit We don't want him doing something illicit. ? jj

I'm sure that person's mama would have told him long ago to always wear clean underwear every day, right? ? jj

You've got 50 lb. braid, a 150-size Daiwa reel, and a heavy power rod. What do you mean, you're basically screwed? It's the other way around; it's the musky that's screwed! Why loosen the drag? Hopefully, the drag (with a lot of help from your thumb) will hold him. Either that little duplex hook on the frog is going to hold, too, in which case you have a nice musky, or it's not, in which case you got rid of a bothersome pest. If you give him leeway, there's a good chance he'll wrap you around something .... like his sharp gill covers. Don't let him do that. Take charge of the fish and turn him immediately. Once you've got him turned, you can sit down, drink some coffee, eat a doughnut and worry about the weeds. ? So basically ..... don't give him an inch. Oh, and buy a new frog. ? jj p.s. - I just saw what DVT wrote. True.

If this rod has a coating like Flex-coat, I would think the coating may loosen up. That's about all, though, and I'm not sure that the coating loosening up is even detectable. jj

If you cut rather than use a leader, I believe the 3000 won't show you a great deal of difference. A little, yes. But not a lot. You know that you can use leaders with mono line, right? Test two mono lines for strength, and choose one that is slightly weaker for your leader. This isn't done a lot, but still, there are some people who do it. I used to be one of them, because I used to fish the river (Mississippi) anywhere from 90 to 100% of the time, and there were places that I'd get hung up quite regularly. I kept fishing them, though, because that's where the fish were. But that was 25-30 years ago. I'm a lot older and (a little bit) wiser now. ??? And yes, I would think that the 4000 size would be too cumbersome. If you can find one on display, though, you might give it a heft and see whether you like it or not. jj

The 2500/3000 spool size relationship is not exactly what it seems with Shimano. What determines casting distance (as long as you're talking about the same line and rod) is spool lip diameter, which is the same between the 2500 and 3000 size spools in the NASCI. So yes, the 3000 will hold more line, but the extra capacity won't be operationally available for the same casting distance as the first 75 or 80 yards. It's buried down in the line lay, due to a smaller-diameter arbor. I got that information, BTW, off older specs from Shimano, from TW, and from sites like this: https://saltedangler.com/spinning-reels/shimano-nasci-reel-review/ There has been noise around that the relationship between the 2500 and 3000 size reels has changed. I don't know whether this is true or not. Whether the change involves a different spool size or not is unclear. Some sites list different weights, and some do not. It's confusing, to be sure. One thing I do know is that Shimano makes slightly different models with slightly different specs for different parts of the world. With the internet making purchase from anywhere in the world a rather easy thing to do, I wonder whether some of the comments about changes in the NASCI lineup didn't involve some of these reels aimed at other markets. Because you said that you fish rivers, I assumed (I know ... I should never assume) that casting distance was important to you. If you can examine a 3000 model, and if it has a larger diameter spool lip, and if the weight seems OK, then I'd say go for it. Otherwise, my advice (to go to braid with a leader) still stands. It's not a perfect arrangement, but I think it will be a lot better than what you've got now. Good luck! jj

Needing to re-fill your reel every few weeks with line because you get hung up a fair amount doesn't sound unreasonable, especially with 8 lb. line (Trilene XL is ten mil or .010" line). Shimano lists the capacity of the 2500 size spool as 140 yards, but they don't say what the diameter is that 140 yards of line is. Personally, I doubt their figures. I have a NASCI 1000, which is advertised as 140 yards of 4 lb. mono, and I can't get 140 yards of .008" line on it. If you cut line rather than pull until the knot breaks, you're reducing your capacity by leaps and bounds. If you also have less than 140 yards capacity, which I think is the case, then you're going to notice a reduction in line faster than you would otherwise expect. It looks like what you're experiencing is totally understandable and normal. It's right in line with what I've experienced with my 1000-size NASCI. The best things you can do are find a way to hang up less, or change to using braid with a weaker leader. jj

First: what size and brand line are you using? Next: You said you get hung up a fair amount. Sure, you're going to go through line. You sort of answered your own question there. Third: Why not use a good braid with a weaker leader? That way you pull on the line and the leader breaks; all you do is replace the leader. That's why I asked what line you were using now. jj

Clean and oil the spool shaft on the left hand side. jj

Some fishermen tell me that there are times when speed and ease of tying are more important than absolute knot strength. These are usually the same people who tell me about "the one that got away". jj

The best way is to use a rig that's good for "feel" but not very good for acquiring the fish. A rig that consists of a lightweight, light power rod with fast action, combined with a lightweight reel and braid, will give the best tactile feedback. Best to use it wacky-style or T-rigged weightless at first. The less mass involved, the better. This setup is NOT to catch more fish, although it may do that, too. It's to give a beginner a clearer idea of the touch sensations involved in fishing. It makes it easier for him to "program" his instincts so as to react better and more productively. And yes, I said "instincts". I'd say at least half of our reactions are not thought-out, but instead they are instinctual. The reason I said that this set-up is not all that good for acquiring fish is that a light power with a stiff tip (which gives the best feedback) is a recipe for fish to drop the hook, especially when they jump. He'll get over that, eventually. Good luck to both of you! JJ

It's best not to rate line by test rating, but instead by diameter. 8 lb. Sunline Super Natural (.009") is not 8 lb Stren Original (.0011") is not 8 lb. Trilene XT (.012"). Usage will show you the difference, and show it clearly. jj

On a baitcaster, no. It's probably fine. I wouldn't use it on a spinning reel. Here are the major qualities of oils manufactured for lubrication purposes. https://www.theengineerspost.com/properties-of-lubricants/ Although this is for engine oils, the same basic properties apply to fishing reel oils. Note #16 and #17; adhesion and film strength. Those two, along with lubricity, determine the utility AND LONGEVITY of oils. They are not totally disjunct from viscosity, but they're somewhat independent of it. So ..... oils can be made to be almost anything we need them to be, for whatever purposes we decide to use them. If you want to use them to lubricate fishing reels, best to get fishing reel oil. It's made for just that. jj

I use TSI321. I oil casting reels about every 6 weeks. On spinning reels, I either grease what I can or use transmission oil, and I use that about every 3 months. I fish 6 days a week, ice-out to ice-up. Hope this helps. jj p.s. A guy told me years ago that there's not a single place on a spinning reel that should be oiled; all wear points and bearings should be greased. I don't know whether or not that's still true. ??

One of the most important factors for me is reliability, with longevity being a close 2nd. To sort that out, I ask people who repair reels. I ask independents, not the factory people, because I sometimes think the factory people are told to push a certain model line. Maybe not, but that's the impression I have. See what they say, and then apply your own ideas of weight, comfort, cosmetics and line management from there on. Good luck! ? jj

Y'know, some couples believe in induced labor ........... jj

With 10 lb. line, you should be able to reliably cast a 1/4 oz. spinnerbait. That's where I'd start. Get a chartreuse pair; one single Colorado blade, and one tandem Colorado/willow blade. 1/2 oz. Rat-l-trap in silver-black back as well as one in orange craw. You might want to try a 1/4 or3/8 oz. buzzbait. From what @Bankc and @Bluebasser86 have said, this might not be the easiest lake to fish. You need to avail yourself of the best resource any fisherman can have; ask locals who fish it. You'll learn a lot that is specific to your location, which is really what you need most. Ask several and average the replies, because there are always a few people who will tell you everything except the truth. I wish you the best of luck! jj

OK .... which size reels. and what pound test line? jj

Could you tell us what kind of rod and reel (size, brand, power, action, etc.) and which line you're using? Could make a big difference. jj

The baitcaster that doesn't backlash is called a spinning reel. Otherwise ...... ya got ta pay ya dues. ? jj

I don't know what you guys mean; the best fishing of the year is just ahead for me! jj

Instead of trying to find the right rod for the spinnerbait, try finding the right spinnerbait for the rod. After all, spinnerbaits are a LOT cheaper than rods. ?? jj

Which reel are you using for the 20 lb. InvizX? jj

A friend of mine (now RIP) was an avid crappie fisherman. He would dip brush and timber, but on points he would use what he called a "find'em rig". This consisted of line with hooks about every foot (usually 8 or 10 feet total) with a small lead weight on the end. The bobber was a hand-made styro slip bobber with a button (yes, a button off of clothing!) for a stop. He would hurl this contraption off a 12 or 14 foot cane pole that had an eye at the end but nothing more. He did it well. I was jealous; every time I tried it, I slung a tangled mess about 5 feet. ?? Many, many times he got doubles. A fair number of times he got triples. He told me that a couple of times he had gotten four. I definitely believed him; he was not one to exaggerate. So now you know what I was thinking when I saw the title of your post. ?? jj

I consider eyes (and eye color) only on lures I retrieve very sl-o-o-w-ly. And those are usually very high in the water column or very low. If they're low, I want a big eye, preferably white. If they're high, I don't care about the color, I just want some contrast between the eye and the body. This isn't etched in stone. It's just something I've noticed. jj