jimmyjoe

In a world of B.S. and under-rating, Hitena is the most honest company I've seen yet. What I like is their lists of tensile strength vs. knot strength for braids. Good stuff! jj

I take it you're talking about a spinning reel? In that case, no, 20 lb. test is fine. On a casting reel, 20 lb. test is too small a diameter, and risks digging in, giving you a backlash. That's one of the reasons that people use 40 to 65 lb. braid on casting reels. That, and the way it feeds (relaxes) off the spool at a given RPM. The other reason that people use higher-test braid is braid's weak point: knots. A sudden impulse (shock) on braid will cause the knot to dig tighter and fail to a greater extent than some fishermen are accustomed to seeing. jj

Hey, @Bass_Fishing_Socal ..... I used to use the Tiny Trap for a while, but I found out that fish tended to engulf it rather than hit the lure itself. So I had some fish that I caught that were hooked inside the gills, and some fish I didn't catch because the line broke. I never figured out whether those were bass, walleye or pike. So I quit using it. That problem wasn't unique to the Tiny Trap; it was kinda-sorta common to all lures that were real small, even the Mini Fat Rap. But fish seemed to hit the Tiny Trap harder. Do you see that problem, too? jj

Quarter ounce Cordell Super Spots are great for me. I started using them for walleye but found out they catch bass very well this time of year. I especially use the grey shad, green shad and green bar fish. Those are getting harder than heck to find any more. Walmart also has a limited number of 3/16 oz. made (evidently) just for them. I don't use those for bass, just walleye. jj

Best way to go through life that there is. ? jj

True, true. Right now, though, contact can be hit and miss. I'll do some investigation. jj

We had an extremely light frost last night, and I only got to go out for about an hour this afternoon. I caught 3 dinks. Tried several lures, but the only one that worked was the Bomber 13a. No other crank, no spoon and no spinner. Any more, I've been throwing the kitchen sink to find out what works; it's been different each day. I make 3-5 casts with one lure, then change. Crazy. Absolutely crazy. No predictability. jj

I have some, but not much, knowledge of composite rods. If you would, could you give me a rundown of brands and models that I might consider? Thanks. jj

Let me tell you something, as a senile old man is sometimes wont to do; "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." So don't worry. You'll get experience. We all did. Good luck! ??? jj

. The beauty of the Charlie Brewer snagless heads is that they have such a great hook-up ratio. ? jj https://www.sliderfishing.com/product.sc?productId=413&categoryId=49

I use Northland a lot. I believe in decent spinnerbaits that catch fish, not in fancy stuff. Sorry, but I don't do fancy. The Northland Reed Runners stand up about as good as anything that I use, and they definitely hook well. 1) I use spinnerbaits A LOT in rocks and rip-rap. They're my favorite lure to literally drag over the rocks. I don't care what kind of paint or epoxy you put on the head of the spinnerbait, it's gonna get worn off real fast. So I retouch .... once. Then it's gone. 2) Pulling over rocks, I frequently lose spinnerbaits. They lodge, and they don't come free. Bye-bye $$. 3) Some spinnerbaits' wires twist on a big fish. When you straighten it, it weakens. Next good-sized fish you hook ........gone. Northland doesn't do that. 4) I admit that for pike and musky, Northland is awful cheap, maybe even weak. But for bass, I think they're just fine. Some people really and sincerely believe in high-dollar spinnerbaits. And I understand that. Heck, that's the way I am about spoons! But for some reason, I'll spend $7 on a spoon, but not on a spinnerbait. Hope this helps you. jj

I wouldn't say they "think". jj

Yes, they hold up better. Where I fish, pike or musky can be a problem, and the closed eye makes using a steel leader easier. If it weren't for that, I'd just get good "R" bend spinnerbaits. The Mann's Hank Parker Classic is twisted eye, and so are the Northland spinnerbaits. J-Mac has a whole series of twisted eye, and if you want to spend more money, Greenfish has a HD series that are closed eye. I thought Lunkerhunt had a closed eye, but I might be wrong. What I don't like about closed eye is that the line (or leader) can wrap around the eye. With a metal leader, this isn't really a problem. With mono or braid, it can be a definite problem, weakening the line very quickly or even breaking it. The open eye doesn't have that problem. jj

It's also a classic "rod-meets-rock" break. Like I said, it's my fault. ??? ??? jj

No. It was my fault. The thing is, this is the second time I've broken this rod and the fourth graphite rod in about 5 or 6 years. I have NEVER broken a fiberglass rod. Never. I'm getting to the point at which I really resent graphite. Yes, it's lighter. But it's just so dadgum BRITTLE! I am pretty sure that I can get a new upper wand for 35 bucks. But the thing is, it could break a third time. Why should I waste my money? If I could get a new tiptop on what's left of the rod now, I'd sure be money ahead! I just need to be sure a new tiptop will work OK. jj

Will the action be faster, or will the settling time be faster? Thx. jj

This is the end of a St. Croix Mojo Bass 7'-01" MH/F 2-pc. rod. As you can see, I have a propensity for breaking graphite. If I wanted to continue using this rod, what are my options? If I simply stick a new tiptop on there, what will be the effect on blank strength? Thank you. jj

Look at it this way: take the best rod you can think of and put a cheap, junky spincast reel on it. Not a Zebco; I mean something really junky. And then take the best reel that you can think of and put it on a junky cane pole with taped guides. Which will let you cast furthest? Which will allow you to set the hook and which drag will allow you to fight the fish better? Which will be more versatile? IMO, reels are far, far more important to modern fishing than rods.

The bad thing about paying $100 for a rod is that you get a $100 rod. You already know what it's like to have lower-tier problems. So, you'd probably be better off waiting for a good sale on a better rod, or getting a better rod used through the Flea Market section. jj

Good point. jj

The only rod that is 2-pc. and ML/XF anywhere near that length is 6'-06". It's the Berkley Heritage. I've got one, and I wouldn't say it's ML; more like M/XF. It has stainless guide inserts, and at one time I wanted something to use for leader knots with impunity. It was good for that, but after that it's nothing special. BTW - they're on clearance right now. I don't know of anything else. I hope you find what you want! ? jj

I've heard that best time to get big bass is in the winter, too. But I had thought they were talking about the South, where water doesn't get much below 40 degrees, not the Northern tier of states. I don't know; maybe I was thinking wrong. jj

Exactly my experience, too. War Eagle are one of the reasons I don't spend much money on spinnerbaits. jj

Maybe I'm not understanding the situation correctly, but it sounds like a place where I would jig a light flutter spoon, like the 1/2 oz. Flutterchuck. Constant movement, even very slight, looks to be better than deadsticking. If I used a jig 'n' bobber, I'd use marabou jigs. jj

Call Lew's, they know. I did 2 years ago, and I got the answer, but I've forgotten it now. (Old people do that, y'know.) I think the 3 lightest were 4-someting ounces, and then it went up from there. Undoubtedly the full handle increases the weight. I've handled them, and I like them for cranks. jj