jimmyjoe

High-modulus-polyethylene is an extruded or gel-spun fiber that can subsequently be used in forming various items. If you braid it, it becomes braided line. If you don't braid it, it's not braided anything. The similarities to nylon are obvious. Nylon can be extruded as monofilament line, of the very fine spinnerets can be braided into braided nylon line. I used to use braided nylon line, but the market isn't there anymore. Like nylon, HMPE can be combined with other materials to achieve a desired effect. HMPE can be combined with carbon ("graphite") to create lighter and stronger replacement hip joints. That's not braid. That's not even linear extrusion. You'll notice that the ad has a trademark symbol next to Hyper Copolymer. That doesn't mean that Hyper Copolymer necessarily means anything, it simply is an advertising name they use. They could have used the term "Lightning Aggregate" or "Polyglot Extrusion Fibers", and then trademarked that. It makes no difference. Trademarks are IME signs of high-level BS. Not only that, but there is no comment about content percentage of HMPE. They could include .000001% and still advertise that they had included HMPE in the line. I don't know whether they did that, but the ad copy is very "loose", if you know what I mean. Until we obtain more accurate information, the most accurate statement that can be made is that Sufix Advance Monofilament contains, among other things, the same plastic that is used to make Dyneema and Spectra braided fishing line. How much and in which form, we don't know. Enjoy the line. I have used 12 lb. test, and I still use 4 lb. test on an ultralight. All advertising aside, I think it's okay line. jj

I have tried (notice I said "tried") a big (1 oz.) spoon about another 12-15 feet out (away from shore) from the trap area. Sometimes it doesn't get me anything, but sometimes it gets me bigger bass. I can't be sure (I asked them but they wouldn't tell me ? ) but it looks like they're bigger cruisers waiting for an easy meal of larger leftovers. I'm used to that kind of behavior from whites and wipers, but was surprised to find it from LMB. It's amazing what you can notice about fish behavior if you keep an open mind, wait awhile to see what's going on, and don't let your assumptions blur your vision. That being said, I usually try a spinnerbait first. jj

The weight of heavy (one ounce plus) lures seems to overcome the difference between Magforce and Magforce-Z response. I like Magforce-Z for lighter lures, especially lures that are not aerodynamic. At one ounce or above, I'd just as soon use linear braking. I used to think that Magforce was better with braid, but now I'm not so sure. I have a new Tatula 150 with Magforce-Z, and it seems to do pretty well with the 50 lb. Sufix 832 I have on it. But I'm continuing to experiment, and when I get around to using heavier lures I may change my mind. So for what you've listed, @diehardbassfishing might be correct. ? jj

Like @WRB said, squarebills are the wrong lure to use in rocks. Of course, I have to go ahead and do it anyway. ? ? ? Have you changed to a rod that is either slower action or has a softer tip? A few years ago, I did, and I hung up to beat the band. It seems the "kick-out" of a squarebill needs a fairly stiff-tipped rod to actuate it in rocks. I went back to a fast action with a stiffer tip and I've been OK since. Not that I don't lose one occasionally, but lots better than I had been doing. Also ..... use a line that is not extremely stretchy. Lines that are less stretchy let you feel the initial "thunk" of the contact, and allow you to back off before you wedge that sucker in so tight that a crowbar couldn't get it out. Just a theoretical hint. ? ? ? jj

I just sold my last pistol-grip rod 2 or 3 years ago. It was a 5'-06" Mitchell Classic. Man, was that thing ever accurate! Then I was seduced by the Dark Side, and I no longer have anything shorter than 7'. ? jj

Well, scratch that idea then! Maybe I'm just too cynical in my old age. ? jj

Where did you see this? jj

When someone posts a pic of a good-sized bass, don't believe anything they say about location. jj

I put it down to excessive line twist. The structure of braided line is such that it is EXTREMELY tolerant of twist ....... up to a point. Once that point is reached ..... BAM! ...... you've got a mess on your hands. I always try to use small-diameter braid for the size of the spool lip. It seems to help. I also drag about 100' of line through the weeds when I notice the line twisting. The friction seems to straighten it out sufficiently. On the subject of seeing twist: Take a new spool of braid and tie one end to something, then walk the supply spool back about 10-15 feet, using a pencil through the spool for an axle. Hold the supply spool level with your eye, and look down the line for a pattern. Different brands have slightly different patterns, but you'll see one no doubt. Now put a rubber band on the supply spool to keep the line captured, and start to rotate the supply spool clockwise, keeping tension on it. Twist about ten times, then relax the tension. No wind knot? That's fine ....... go another ten rotations clockwise. Relax again. Keep this routine up until you get a wind knot. What you'll find out is that the wind knot develops suddenly. Sometimes VERY suddenly. So rotate the spool ten times counter-clockwise, taking twist out of the braid. Relax it, and make sure you have no wind knot. Hold the supply spool up level with your eye and look for a pattern. You'll see one. The line will look twisted compared to the way it looked before you started to rotate the spool ten times. Remember that pattern. It's the "demon at the door". When it develops, drag your line through the weeds or on the grass, until the pattern disappears. Good luck! ? jj

Spool up with braid and throw in-line spinners all morning without checking your line. You'll find out what they are. ? jj

Look at the new ultra-low diameter braids coming out on the market. Berkely has two; X5 and X9. The Jordan Lee versions are chartreuse, otherwise the same. 40 lb. PowerPro is 12 mil, but the new X5 at 40 lb. is only 9 mil. Big difference in casting characteristics. The bad thing is that the new UL diameter lines haven't been on the market long enough to really get a good idea of their overall characteristics. There might be some area of weakness but I haven't heard of any yet, though. jj

Guy I worked with years ago did it. It worked, but he only did it in rivers. jj

Congratulations! 21 years from now you'll wonder where all the time went, so slow down and enjoy it now. After all ........ there's nothing like family! jj

PM sent.

General semantics and behavioral economics. jj

There. I did some editing. Pruned the bush, so to speak. Enjoy! jj

I don't know which size you're using, but I have found that in general, if large boot-tail baits don't get their attention, move DOWN one size. It usually works for me. I hope it works for you. jj p.s. - all other caveats apply; slow retrieve, very little added weight, stop-and-go or pop-and-drop, etc.

Did you mean to say "money" or "honey"? ? ? ? jj

Somehow I hear an echo of the Borg; " ...... Resistance is futile! ..... " ? jj

I might be naive, but I believe if you treat someone decent, they'll treat you decent. That's just human nature. Common interests just break the ice sooner. jj

For that price you can get a custom-made rod set up exactly the way you wish, and the rodmaker can give you accurate advice on tip action, overload, weight and flex. Look at Batson and American Tackle (Bushido) for blank specs, then go to rodbuilding dot org for advice on a builder. jj

The Curado 200 is slightly larger, holds more line, and feels heavier ...... but not by much. I tend to use reels with larger capacity because I tend to use larger diameter lines. I like 14 mil line minimum, so the capacity of the 200 is about right for me. I fish places with wiper, pike, and musky. A lot depends on your next purchase; in other words, where are you going from here? Some people would go down in power, so that the MH/F was their "big guns". For that, I'd definitely take the 200. Other people (like me) would buy heavier next, going the H/M or H/F rod route. If you do that, you can take a lot of the upper-weight load off your MH/F rod, and therefore use a lighter line and smaller reel. Whichever way you go, I hope you have good luck and enjoy fishing! jj

Possibly. If you're on a well, you need to talk with someone professional, someone who really knows what they're talking about. These chemicals may not have the characteristics that we think they have. I would start at the state university level. Don't be satisfied to talk to the first person who answers the phone. Ask questions regarding people who are "experts". Like any human beings, they are fallible, just a little less so. If you don't get the info you need there, go the government route. Just be prepared to get the runaround time and time again. ? Good luck! I hope the best for you! jj

Are you worried about it getting into the water supply, or are you just asking about effectiveness? And are you wanting to kill ALL vegetation, or everything except grass? (I thought that Weed-B-Gone didn't kill grasses. I might be wrong.) There's a new (at least new to me) product out called "Crossbow". I personally know nothing about it, but it's been recommended by other people as a highly effective product. You might want to check it out with someone who knows more about it. jj

Yes, I've had the same problem. And other problems, too. Be very cautious about accepting payment from other people now. Paypal has changed ..... a lot. You might want to consider an alternative. jj