jimmyjoe

You're right about the M/F rod. That's where to start. I tried my M/MF and it didn't work well; too much tip give. I use 12 lb. InvizX on a Casitas reel, and 20 lb. Fireline Ultra 8 on a Curado 70. I use the braid in brush, otherwise I use the fluoro. Both reels work great. I have a MH/F rod that I want to try with flukes, but just haven't gotten around to trying it out quite yet. I will, though. Experimentation is half the fun! jj

Try this the next time you use a 1/2 ounce spinner: take one of these weights and put it in the swivel snap ring THAT YOU TIE YOUR LURE TO. Not the other side. If the lure is working correctly, you'll not feel that weight "thumping" as it rotates with your line. In reality, you'll feel a "thump" as the weight rotates up and over, then falls quickly on the other side. Use only 1/16th size; you're not trying to stop the line rotation (yet), you're just ascertaining that it really is there. As for visuals, a swimming pool can be your best friend. ? jj https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/catpage-SWAGGR.html?from=basres

Only 1 or 2 2-pc rods. Mojo has a few more choices. 2-pc Avid? I'll be darned ... who knew? jj

Welcome. Marlies fan? jj

No line roller; this is a baitcaster. jj

I occasionally use Mepps #5 (1/2 ounce) spinners, usually in deeper lakes that have thermocline. I learned quick not to use braid; spinners twist braid unmercifully, even with the best ball bearing swivels. Mono seemed much more tolerant. I had 12 lb. InvizX on one of my reels yesterday, and I used my spinners for about 4 hours, about 5-8 feet deep, both slow and moderate speed retrieve. Call me crazy, but the fluoro seems to be more resistant to line twist. It's as if it was "stiffer" axially. Has anyone else noticed this, or am I imagining things? jj

You might want to consider the Bomber Long A models, from the A-Salt on up. jj

I'm a shorecaster, and I have the Mojo Bass 7'1" MH/F 2-pc. Good rod. I formerly had the 7'1" M/F. It was nice, but I needed more backbone. I have used the Daiwa Fuego CT100, the Shimano Curado 70, the Shimano Casitas 150 HG and the Shimano Curado 200i with these rods. Best match was the Casitas 150 and the M/F using 12 lb InvizX. Next was the MH/F with the Fuego CT100, used as a spinnerbait rig. I put 12 lb. Big Game on that reel. I have a new rod for the Casitas now, and the performance is better overall. The new rod, however, is twice the price. 2-pc Mojo rods are good, but not magic. I prefer the 1-pc, if I could use them. I handled the Omen 2-pc. It seemed heavy and clunky to me. I know of no other 2-pc casting rods that I would recommend in your price range. jj

Amen, brother! ? jj

Welcome to BR! jj

I usually fish alone. I would prefer to fish with my friends, but most of them are now dead. Bummer. jj

That's what it's all about, every day of the year and every day of our life. No matter the difficulties we've had or the difficulties we face, that preamble sets us apart as unique. Thank you, John Locke. jj

If all you want is to try a legitimate deep cranking rod, try one of the David Fritts Perfect Cranker rods from Lew's. They're not fancy, but they're not expensive, either. And believe me, they are exactly what the advertisement says they are. There is a 7' M/M. and a 7' MH/M, as well as a 7 1/2 MH/M if you go to the Perfect Palmer. If you like them, you've got a good cranker for not too much money. If you don't like them, you can sell without losing much (or maybe any) money. One word of advice. Use a low retrieve speed reel with this (or any) deep cranking rod. If you can find the Shimano Curado 200i PG (Power Gear) at 5.5:1 retrieve ratio, you'll find that it's just about perfect. You may not think so for the first half hour, but you will after that. ? ? jj

Daiwa Fuego CT100. I got, I use it, I love it. jj

^^^ Yup. That's my go-to panfish setup. And that's what's below the slip bobber! For another viewpoint, try http://www.wayneswords.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=410:bluegill-tips-&catid=46:bluegill&Itemid=11 jj

There are a lot of things in this life to worry about, but what other people think isn't one of them. You did good. jj

I suppose that's your story, and you can stick to it. ? Welcome! jj

Adirondacks? Don't those keep the logs from rolling out of the fireplace? ?? WELCOME TO BR! jj

Try the Berkley Series One. It doesn't go as far down as 1/16th, but it reaches 1/8th. Maybe good enough? jj

I had been missing fish on flukes. I don't mean I pulled the bait away, I mean I got the fish, but after a VERY short fight, the fish went bye-bye. Now, no more. The part about hooking up "backwards" really works. The hookset is much more positive. If you didn't know it, it's at 0:51 in the video. If you did know it .... why didn't you tell me? ?? jj

Great family fun. Welcome! jj

Same here. This year, with the flood and all, my locations have been different, so my choices of rigs has been different also. jj

Yes it is. But it's not any fun LOSING a bass on ML because they got into cover no matter how hard I fought them. ? jj

Holy Cow! Now I see what you mean! You definitely give me a target to aim for, but I'm going to have to up my casting skills. In the river (which I still can't fish so far this year) I could land a pike on 4 lb. mono, as long as he had enough clear room to run. But in these lakes, even a M/F rod is hard pressed to yank a bass out of cover. A MH/F rod is fine, but I throw senkos, beaver baits, flukes, ribbontail worms and boot tails. I WILL definitely find a way to get those out there. ? And yes, I tried the M/F spinning. No way. Not enough power. Thnx. jj

It almost looks like the lightest rig you use is the one for crankbaits. I've been going over my crankbait "collection" to try and figure whether I need anything lighter than 3/8 oz. The only 2 I really depend on are the 1/4 Wally Diver and the 1/4 oz. Bagley Honey "B". I think if I look around, I can come up with some replacements for those that weigh more and are easier to cast for distance on a MH rod. Which rod are you using for the weightless T-rig stuff? jj