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jimmyjoe

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Everything posted by jimmyjoe

  1. Maybe they initially figured that they would make more money off licensing. I have no idea what their licensing fee is. Perhaps things didn't turn out as rosy as what they anticipated, so they decided to dabble in it themselves as a way to kick-start a wider user-level appreciation of the material. If so, I think they're going about it the wrong way. We already have rods that are lighter (from what little I've seen), just as stiff, and adequately durable to make nano resin a moot point. And some of them are much less expensive. jj
  2. Thank you. Sometimes it's nice to get good news. jj
  3. Put ONE drop OF LIQUID LAUNDRY SOAP on the knot before you pull it tight. Liquid laundry soap is a million times better than saliva at lubrication. Dab with a handkerchief if you want and you're set to go. Keep an eyedropper vial of it with you. jj
  4. I fish relatively shallow waters. If nothing has given me a hit, including bigger spinnerbaits, I start working down the line on spinnerbaits. From a half-ounce, I'll go to a quarter, then a War Eagle 3/16 finesse, and then a 1/8th Booyah Micro Pond Magic. No other lure except spoons has given me as positive a set of results by progressively reducing size as spinnerbaits. Not cranks, not soft plastics and not in-line spinners. And I mention the spinnerbait over the spoons because I can work the spinnerbaits right on the cover. I can't do that with spoons. If that doesn't work, I go home. jj
  5. Fiberglass absorbs vibration. Graphite transmits vibration much more efficiently. You can make a graphite rod that will do anything mechanically that a fiberglass rod will. The fiberglass rod, however, will not transmit vibration nearly as well. Some people say that fiberglass has a latency (time delay) that is valuable when using crankbaits. They also say that fiberglass gives the fish time to inhale the lure, resulting in a higher percentage of hooksets. I don't think so. I think the "delay" is a delay in the fisherman's sensing the hit. A graphite rod, even a moderate action graphite rod, will give the fisherman a sense of touch that makes many fishermen react too early, because it transmits smaller vibrations more efficiently. The exact same fiberglass rod gives that fisherman the same sense of getting a hit a split second later, and the same reaction by the fisherman will result in a better hookset. The guy setting the hook thinks that the glass rod gave him the exact same signal that the graphite did. In reality, it didn't. The signal took a split second more time to build up enough that it could get through the 'glass to the fisherman's hands. That's where the delay is. The hit by the fish is the same. The fisherman's reaction once he receives the signal is the same. This is, of course, for lures that you can't see, that depend on your touch. Fishing that depends on sight, like topwater or linewatching, is another matter entirely. And yes, I learned on fiberglass. I like it and graphite, both, but to each one its best use. jj
  6. That's the only way I catch musky; I fish for bass and a musky hits. And if I target musky, all I catch are bass. Pike are more cooperative. Of course, where I fish the population of pike is much higher. Makes a huge difference. jj
  7. St. Croix Mojo Bass 6'8" MH/F, 3/8-1 oz. Be aware that it's a quite a bit stiffer in the tip than the Ardito that @king fisher recommended. Being 2-pc, it's also a little longer than the 3-pc Ardito. The Ardito is better with crankbaits, though. (These things may make a difference to you, or they may not.) jj
  8. I agree with what seems to be the consensus here; I use them undressed. The ONLY dressed Mepps that seems to get me more fish is the Firetiger double-bladed Aglia in #3. As for single vs. treble hooks, I'd say that single hooks hold fish a lot better, but I feel that I'm missing more hits with them. jj
  9. Yeah. I wrote Mustad and got about the same reply. Oh, well ..... I thought this might be one of those times when the people here could tell me something new and different, but I guess that was not to be. Thanks anyway. ? jj
  10. Good wife, good doctor, good advice.
  11. A bit of advice; after your surgery, don't do any exercises except walking. Take double the time they say you'll take for your recovery. You'll have had an incision/incisions right in the middle of one of the most highly stressed areas of your musculature. Believe me, you don't want to have hernia surgery right after prostate surgery.
  12. I fish from shore. No matter how I rig or which plastic I use, I lose a LOT in brush. I lose fish and I lose hooks. Instead of powering up, I've been thinking of powering down. I remember that Charlie Brewer used to sell a double-light hook for his jigheads. The idea was to put them right in the cover, and then bend them straight if they hung up. I think (my memory isn't perfect) that they were designed to straighten out with 6 lb. line. Does anyone use these? Do they hold bass without straightening? Are there other light hooks that I could use in brush that straighten easily, yet still hold bass? Mostly, I'm talking senkos and small flukes. Maybe finesse worms, I don't know. Thnx for the help. jj
  13. We have plenty of both brands where I live, especially the utility-to-medium power bracket. As far as I know, every problem under warranty has been resolved by both brands. Although I'm not that deep into it to be 100% certain, a local mechanic said that problems out of warranty are neglect, abuse or stupidity. He said they're "six of one, half-a-dozen of the other" as far as service life goes. Mind you, this is tractors and not mowers. I don't follow mowers at all. Hope this helps. jj
  14. I've been looking around for a reel to handle some heavier lures, maybe 1 oz. to 2+ oz., and I came upon this reel new, but display demo. I had been thinking about a Shimano Tranx 300a, but the shop owner will sell this reel to me for half of the Tranx. I don't know which way to go. Lures will be 1 oz. spinnerbaits. 2 oz. spoons, smaller swimbaits and Mepps Giant Killers. I BRIEFLY looked at the Abu, and I didn't quite understand the double tension knob setup. It's a heavy reel, but not troublesome. Anyone have any advice which way I should go and why? Thnx. jj
  15. Correct. This is because the harder cast accelerates more, keying the centrifugal control to brake harder, and damping the RPM. Surfcasters and jettymen get their long distances by using 4 oz or heavier weights and long, smooth casting strokes. Look up Tommy Farmer videos. He'll give you a good idea of how the heavier stuff works. You might find that you're already sitting in the sweet spot for the line and lures that you're using. jj
  16. Obviously you've never had the kind of wind knots with braid that I have. Not only do they stop me from fishing, but they my . That only happened with one particular brand of mono, which I quit using. As for Nanofil, that's what I used for 5 or 6 years. Then I got 2 spools of 12 lb. in a row with dropouts in the middle, and I gave up on it. Otherwise, it was OK, although I wouldn't say that twist was a "non-factor", exactly. jj
  17. I admire you! When it comes to braid, it doesn't take very much at all to start me swearing. jj
  18. Only you can tell us. jj
  19. In the first place, if you're too cheap to use a good swivel, then that's 99% of your problem with spinners. Use a good ball-bearing swivel. One good idea is attach a good swivel, like VMC #0 or 1, then a 12-16" leader of mono. Seems to help compared to a snap swivel. I used 8 lb PowerPro on a Nasci 1000 reel. I hated it. And that's putting it mildly. I had another spool of Fireline Ultra 8, and that was a little better. You might consider changing your brand of braid. Anyway .... to your immediate problem. I let out 20 -30 feet, kinda like @Team9nine said, and then drag it through high weeds. That provides the friction necessary to straighten out the twist.Grass didn't work. Water didn't work. If I needed more friction, I wrapped the line around a tall weed and then drug the line rather strongly, to say the least. Try it. Another idea I tried: look carefully at the line to see whether it needs to be back-twisted clockwise or counter-clockwise. Stuff the end in a cordless drill using paper to wad the line inside the chuck, and turn the drill the appropriate direction. This works really well, but you need to remember one thing: braid is made up of interconnected filaments that rub against each other. Once it takes a set from being twisted in one direction, you can straighten it out but it will re-twist very easily. I used to counter-twist the braid with the drill an judicious excess in the opposite direction needed, to remove this set. Didn't work. YMMV. But the BEST idea is to use mono. Period. jj
  20. ^^^^ good advice ^^^^ I have a Fuego CT100, almost identical to the Tatula 100. I put a Ray's Studio BFS spool on it to cast light stuff. Here's what I found out: 1) It casts 1/6 oz. lures very, very well. Your worm-n-jig weighs more than that. Accuracy is good, and distance is consistent. 2) It hates braid. Loves mono (6 or 8 lb. Stren) but it hates braid. 3) I had to go to a Daiwa 7' UL rod to get distance. Even then, I would estimate only 75 feet with .16 oz. lures, and not a heck of a lot more with 1/5 oz. 4) Control of the cast, however, was great. Superb, even. That's with mono. 5) Oh yeah .... it hates braid. Did I mention that? 6) This particular spool is actually labelled "Tatula 100", but it also works for the Fuego. So I wasn't using some weird 'thing that isn't applicable to you. Hope this helps. jj
  21. All .... and I mean all .... of my rods, spinning and casting, are 2-piece. I have no boat, I transport by car, and I keep my rods not used at the moment out of sight, for anti-theft purposes. I wish more rods were made 2-piece. jj
  22. Glad to have you!
  23. One of the principles of economics, whether applied to medicine, to manufacturing, to the military, to the arts or to education, is very simple: Nothing is free. Looking at it that way, things become a little ... not much, but a little ... simpler. jj
  24. Yeah, kinda good advice. Sometimes, bait shops want to sell you whatever it is that they have left over, though. Better info can be curried from local fishermen. And I do mean local. I've gone as little as 90 miles from my local area, and lures (and somewhat the techniques) changed a heck of a lot. Good luck. jj
  25. Yes, that's possible. jj
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