king fisher

Try the Alberto. After a bit of practice it is as fast and easy to tie as any, and I believe is second only to the FG in both strength, and size. There are a couple tricks to tying the Alberto that make all the difference in the world. One is how you tighten it, the other is trimming the leader end flush. Watch more than one how to video. There are a couple that show both the common mistakes, and the correct way. If you don't like the Alberto after giving it a try, like you said the blood works for you. I have a friend that swore the uni to uni was the strongest. I finally talked him into doing a head to head test. The uni to uni broke every time. At first he claimed it was because we pulled slow and steady. So we jerked hard, same results. Then we had to do the test underwater, same result. What knot does he use now? Uni to Uni. Does he out fish me on a regular basis? Yes he does. Do we both have a good time fishing together? Yes as long as neither of us talks about knots.

For small streams, hard to beat a number 3 Mepps or Vibrax inline spinner. For lakes, and rivers, Hula Grub.

I think a lot has to do with the activity of the prey in any particular body of water. If the prey are active, concentrated, or otherwise vulnerable at a certain time of day, the bass will be there to take advantage of that food source, no matter what time of year. Land animals such as voles, may venture in to the water more at night, or crawfish, may come out from under rocks. Some bait fish may spawn or come out of hiding at night, the possibilities are endless. Like any other predator, a bass may or may not completely change his hunting tactics when it gets dark. Which in turn may or may not change the baits and tactics required for successful fishing. Depends largely on how the prey responds to darkness, as well as changes in dangers to the bass. Less predation for above at night might make it safer for a bass to roam shallow water in the open, while at the same time darkness could make it easier to get close to prey. Every ecosystem is different. So many factors to consider. Add in the fact that Murphys law and darkness goes hand in hand, makes successful night fishing an elite skill. Sounds like A-Jay through hard work and persistence has his night fishery dialed in. I have to thank him for sharing the results of his hard labor and expertise. I have had very little luck bass fishing at night, but not am inspired to give night fishing more effort.

FG knot works best and has a big advantage in size, when using leaders that are significantly larger diameter than the mainline braid.(Mainly salt water use) An example would be 100 Lbs. leader with 80 lbs. braid. The crossing action of the smaller braid can can get a good bite on a larger leader, where it is more difficult to get it to bite in to the leader the closer the lines are to the same diameter. An Alberto can be used with both light, and heavy line, but is not quite as strong, or as small as an FG. However it is a very good knot,and the one I prefer for bass fishing. Uni to Uni is a great knot that I used for years but now prefer the Alberto. Disadvantage of the uni is it is larger, because you have to tie a knot in the leader instead of just a fold like with the Alberto. With heavy line, Uni to Uni is not really an option. Try and tie a uni to uni with 100 lbs. floro and you will see what I mean. A doubled over uni to uni is a great knot for connecting braid to braid. The only knot better that I have found for braid to braid is loops made with bimmini twists, then connect loops together with a cats paw. Way to much trouble for bass fishing. I can't even think of a time bass fishing when I would want to connect braid to braid anyway. I know there are people that can tie an FG well with light line used for bass fishing, I'm just not one of them.

I have used blood knots for over 40 years, and still do for mono to mono or floro to mono connections. The reason it is not more popular is because it is not as strong as FG , Alberto, or Uni to Uni.(Alberto and FG are also both smaller per diameter). I make this statement, after testing many knots, both individually with scales, and head to head against each other ( yes I have too much spare time). Before blood knot fans get all bent out of shape and tell me how many big fish they have caught using a blood knot, let me say I did not say the blood knot is not strong, only not as strong as the other examples. The Tacticalbassn guys use it exclusively and catch way more big bass than I ever will. If you watch their knot instruction video, they do mention there is stronger knots, but they like the blood knot because they can tie it quickly, and it is easy to tell if tied correctly. I'm just saying a correctly tied Alberto, of FG is stronger not better, If you like the knot you use, than don't change. If you like to experiment with other knots, or are always looking for a slightly better mouse trap than I recommend giving the Albero and FG a try. A few years ago all the captains fishing the CA Mexico coast swore by the Tonya Pena knot (not sure on the spelling). I started to hear about all the Florida guys using the FG. I learned to tie it and like its strength and how slim it is. Didn't lilke how long it took to tie. (recently learned a new way to tie the FG very quick and easy). Other captains told me if it aint broke don't fix it. Now most deck hands don't even know how to tie the Tonya Pena, FG has completely taken over. Even though I had been told hundreds of times the Tonya Pena was a 100% knot and they NEVER fail. I guess maybe there was room for fixing after all. Now most are switching to hollow braid splice, even stronger than the FG not full proof but very close. I don't know how many times I have had friends tell me their favorite knot has never failed. Then they get snagged forcing them to break the line. I point out to them where the line broke and they say that is not a failure because the line broke slightly above or below the knot and didn't come untied. If the line breaks next to the knot it was because of the knot. If you are satisfied with a 75% knot that you never loose any fish with, is easy to tie, and you have great confidence in, than by all means use it. You will probably never need the extra 10% you might get with another knot. I just get tired of people saying they NEVER have had a knot fail because their knot is 100%, even when using floro and or braid. Mono has better knot strength, and that is why at one time the only knots you ever saw fishermen tie were clinch(improved, trilene, variations), Palomar, blood knot, and surgeons( double, triple etc.) Even mono does not have 100 percent knot strength. Now with super braids, and floro, new knots come out all the time. It doesn't hurt to give them a try.

Thanks Glen. I have used Poes before. The LOT I am looking at on EBay has a dozen of the Tennessee Killers that look brand new. They look to me to be very similar to Poes. Half are in what looks like original boxes from Norman. I never heard of Norman making a cedar crank bait, and I have seen people put all kinds wrong lures in boxes on Ebay. I hoped someone on this site had experience with these lures. I really want a couple of the other lures in the LOT but the price is high if the killers are poor baits. Sorry, not interested in criminals just lures. Although my wife thinks the time I spend looking at tackle on Ebay is a crime. I guess I should have been more careful in the wording of the post. Sorry for any confusion. I am wondering if you saw the Bait Monkeys mug shot on Google?

Nobody has experience with these cedar crankbaits? I haven't seen them before, they look good in the pictures, and were apparently made by Norman. Must be a reason for lack of popularity.

I have been most successful with FG for heavy braid to leader, Alberto for light braid to leader, Uni to Uni, or blood knot for connections without braid. Uni to Uni for braid to braid. This is what I currently use, always subject to change. I am always trying and testing different knots, line, and applications.

Looking to buy a Lot of lures on Ebay that has quite of few Tennessee Killers along with some other lures that I am interested in. I have experience with the other lures in the Lot, but no experience with the Killers. Has anyone used these? What did you think? Are they similar to Poes? How deep do they dive? Thanks in advance.

Trying to determine if one color is better than another by casting a jig would be difficult ( so many variables) but if someone has fished jigs for many years I would have to believe through trail and error, they would would have a good idea, where and when what color works. I have found one of the best experiments to see if color makes a difference is by trolling. Troll multiple lures at the same time, the same distance back, with the only difference being the color. I have done this and seen times, when one color is the only one to get hit, and times when it doesn't matter. Most of the time all will work, but one will work better, very rarely is the difference night and day, but it does happen. Like others on this site have said, color doesn't matter until it matters. I have also seen times, when there only has to be a small amount of a particular color on the lure to make a big difference. Like two shad colored crankbaits, one has some chartreuse, on it, the other has some blue. One gets crushed the other doesn't. I don't know what the bass saw, All I can say is the only difference I could detect was the color. The other way I have found how important color can be, is watching my friend slay the bass on the only color, the bait monkey never told me about. I continue to be stubborn and refuse to borrow one of his. Partly because of me already saying he didn't need to bring anything, because I know the lake well and have anything we could possibly need. He just sets the hook and laughs while I tell him color doesn't matter any way. He replies, of course not, it's the angler. Yes I do believe bass see blue.

Why can the bass see my friends blue bait, but not my blue bait?

Bass are very efficient hunters. Like all good hunters they utilize all of their intelligence, senses, and skills to get their game. A plains Indian wouldn't even notice a goose flying over head while charging into a herd of buffalo, let alone try to shoot it with his bow. The Same Indian hunter slowly sneaking up on a flock of geese in a pond, might shoot a buffalo if one happen to walk by. If a bass has a food source available that is plentiful, but takes lots of concentration, and skill to catch, he might key in on a certain feature of that prey in order to be more successful. This can appear to an angler as being selective, when really it is just what the bass has to do in order to be an effective predator. Like the Indian having to concentrate on his swiftness and riding skills, during the buffalo hunt. Other times their might not be a large number of one kind of prey around, and the bass is just looking for something to eat. This happens a lot in rivers when a bass sets up an ambush spot out of the direct current and just waits for anything to float by. Dragon fly nymph, minnow, mouse, or any number of creatures drifting by will be attacked. Same bass might move right out in to the current in the evening when crayfish start moving on the bottom. Probably wont even notice a dragon fly nymph floating by while trying to catch the crayfish, who are quickly hiding under rocks. The first example almost anything drifted naturally in front of the bass will get hit. An angler may think the fish hit because his Senko had such great action, or color, when the truth is, the bass was going to hit anything that drifted naturally to him. These bass are not expecting any particular prey, and don't have time to get a good look anyway. The second scenario, it would be best to replicate the speed and action of the crayfish. Wouldn't hurt to match the size and color too. Most fish eat smaller fish, so most lures try and represent fish. Some lures, like an inline spinner don't look like anything a bass would eat sitting still, but retrieved through the water comes alive, looking and sounding like almost any prey. Others like a plastic worm can look like food just sitting on the bottom. Bass can eat almost anything, so lucky for the bait monkey their are lures that represent almost anything a bass has eaten, and some that a bass hasn't even dreamed of, but wants to give it a try. Those days big bass are aggressive, attacking anything they can get their mouths around, are what great fishing stories are made of.

I believe,bass get conditioned to certain food through experience. They soon find out what they can eat that fills them up and doesn't hurt(large crayfish claws) or make them sick(cigarette butts). Then they become more efficient at catching the prey they have determined is safe, and tasty. The more times they are successful with a certain, type of prey, the more they will key in on that prey. After awhile they recognize a certain movement, color, or other factor that gives them an edge at finding, and catching what they are hunting. They recognize what time of year, time of day, light condition, and weather that makes for successful hunting of one type of prey over another.(what time of day insects hatch, or when crayfish move around) Anglers try to imitate, one or more of the traits of their natural food. This does not mean a bass wont try something new. Just like a kid who is a picky eater, once in awhile will try something different and like it. A bass may have never eaten a mouse swimming on the surface before, but it looks alive, and easy to catch so why not give it a try? Most likely wouldn't bother with the mouse, if he was gorging on a school of shad, that are cornered, and has dialed in a method to catch them efficiently. Later when the school of shad are gone, it might not be the right time for the mouse to go for a swim. Not that the bass prefers shad over mice, just a matter of timing. Bass are capable of eating almost anything. When very hungry, there is a better chance of getting them to try something new, and less likely to be keyed in on a single food source. Aggression is another factor that can get them to strike. They are more likely to be aggressive to something they have experienced as a threat to them or their offspring, or is in competition with them for a food source.(If a blue Gill tries to eat a worm a bass wants, might be just as easy to eat the blue gill and get rid of the competition.) Again they learn certain actions, that can trigger aggression, and the angler tries to replicate that action. Just because a lure looks like a certain prey species to an angler, doesn't mean it looks anything like what the bass is used to eating to the bass. A bass may be used to seeing his prey try to escape in a certain way with a particular action, that a certain realistic looking lure doesn't imitate regardless of paint and shape. A lure with lots of action may be intimidating to a bass that has been picking slow moving food off of the bottom. Where one making a huge racket on the surface may perfectly match a fleeing school of bait, even though the color and shape are wrong. Matching the hatch is not about an exact match to human eyes. It is about having a lure that exhibits some quality that gives the bass confidence, that what he just saw, heard, or felt has been eaten before, can be easily caught and is worth eating, or (attacking in the case of aggression.) I have way to much time on my hands and am way over thinking things. In way less words, it doesn't hurt to try to imitate what a bass is accustom to eating, but if that fails, something different can work too or sometimes, they can both work at the same time.

Just when I thought things couldn't get worse, world health crisis, no baseball, and now someone is fishing a Diawa Shimano combo right out in the open. Even writing a review about it. I know it is a free country,do what you want, and I do have to admire your courage, but, you might consider keeping that combo in the rod locker. LoL

Though not about bass fishing in particular. Here are to classics about life as a fisherman, that are two of my all time favorites. As usual, book is way better than movie. A River Why -- David Duncan A River Runs through it.--- Norman Maclean.

I used to use my teeth hands and feet to tie the FG too. Last year I watched a video on U Tube showing how to tie the knot with only your two hands. Crossing the line and holding the crosses between your thumb and finger.( hard to explain) You don't have to have tension, to tie it this way. All the people I have showed this method have changed the way they tie the FG. It still takes more time than an Alberto, but can be done in any conditions. I prefer Alberto with light line. Also a few good videos showing the common mistakes made with the Alberto most common mistake is not trimming the tag on the leader end close enough. Causing the main line to catch on the tag, eventually weakening the line above the knot.

I started using Blood Knot for line to line connections in the late 70's. I still do for making tapered fly leaders. Switched to Uni to Uni for braid to leader when super braids came out.. After 20 year using Uni to Uni for braid to leader, I switched to Alberto for light line, FG for heavy line. The Alberto has become as fast an easy for me to tie as Uni, to Uni or blood knot. FG takes more time. They have all worked well, and have all failed me at some time, that's fishing.

If you ever want to give Diawa another try, I highly recommend the Coastal 200. I have used mine 3- 5 days a week for almost a year. No Problems. Enough drag to land many different inshore species up to 30#. Should be able to horse the largest bass out of thick cover no problem. Most people can't handle 25 lbs. of drag using stand up gear for tuna.( some can handle 35 pounds, but not your average angler) Anything over 20 pounds most people will opt for using the rail or a chair. I can't imagine needing 20 pounds of drag for any bass fishing. I highly recommend getting a scale and setting a drag at 20 pounds just to see what it feels like. Not saying you are wrong, I haven't fished where you do, Just saying from my experience full drag 10 to 15 pounds has been enough drag for any bass fishing situation I have experienced. Every fisherman and fishery, has different requirements. I may be wrong, it wouldn't be the first time.

You are right. Not a Dalton Special. I guessed at Dalton Special, but after taking a closer look incorrect guess. Like you said different hooks, and front. Does any one have any idea on the middle lure? River Runt is different than the one I have, but mine is plastic. The one in the picture looks like an older wooden version. They might have changed the way the bill was attached and started using hook hangers when they changed to plastic.

Here is my guess. Top left. Bomber water dog. Similar to a hellbender but has a round lip. bottom left. --- original bomber. Middle top. --- Heddon River Runt knock off. River Runt lip was attached with screws and hooks were attached with hangers. Middle.---- No clue Middle bottom --- Dalton special Right top--- South Bend Nip I Dee- Dee Right Bottom --- Helin Flatfish. I have owned and landed bass on River Runt, Water Dog, Bomber, Nip I Dee-Dee, and Flat fish.

#1 Rebel Deep Wee R #2 Rapala DT 10 #3 Norman deep little N

At one time spinning reels had the disadvantage of only working with lighter line, and the drags were horrible. Any time you needed to use line over 12 pound test, or needed to fight a fish that made long runs you were at a big disadvantage using spinning gear. Now with excellent reels, and super braid line, there are no reel disadvantages of spinning reels. A skilled angler with a spinning rod can master almost any technique that can be done with a bait caster. I prefer bait casting reels for reasons other than their ability to catch fish. I simply feel more comfortable with a bait caster. I would recommend anglers become proficient with both. Each method does have advantages for each individual angler. Some anglers love to fineness fish with bait casters, and others like to fish crankbaits with spinning gear. You wont know what kind of angler you are if you don't try both. If you really want to make the bait monkey happy, add a fly rod to the mix.

I am also interested to hear what members think of the Coastal SV. I can't comment on the Coastal SV, but highly recommend the Coastal 200 it is the best reel I own. I use it for everything, punching, deep cranks, and in shore saltwater. I was going to purchase another Coastal 200 but now am also considering the coastal SV. $175 shipped is a great price. Where?

I have fished with bait casters for 40 years, and consider myself relatively proficient. My experience is mostly with older Ambassador 5500 and 6500 reels. I have always used light spool tension on all the my baitcasters. Relying on my thumb to avoid any backlash. Last year I bought my first Diawa, a TAT. CT. I thought I would be able to cast this reel well with the break set at 0 and light spool tension. I experienced some of the worst back lashes of my life. I soon learned that with that reel regardless of experience, I would have to use some of the magnetic brake system. I started with a 3/4 setting, and now usually use somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 depending on what lure, wind, and how far I want to cast. I leave the spool tension set with a slight amount of play. The difference I have noticed with the TAT. CT. is the real wants to backlash very early in the cast. All of the other B.C. I have used, were prone to backlash from the middle to the end, when the lure starts to slow down. This has been my experience, I don't know if others feel the same. I now own a couple TAT CTs. and a Coastal 200 preferring them to my other reels. When I make long casts I instinctively lightly thumb the spool at the very start of the cast. I normally don't have to use my thumb again until the very end. With the proper break setting and my thumb adjusted to the differences of Diawa mag break system, I can cast longer than any other reels I have owned. Although not a fair comparison to other modern reals. because all my other B.C. are older Ambassadors, and other larger reels. Haven't tried any newer smaller Lews, or Shimanos. I'm sure I would be impressed with their performance too. If you are getting bad backlashes with high break settings, I would suspect something is wrong with the reel. On my reels It is almost impossible to backlash with the break set 3/4 to maximum. High break settings will significantly reduce distance.

When I don't catch fish it is because of a bad moon phase. When I catch fish, it is because I'm a great fishermen. A deck hand in Puerto Vallarta taught me that years ago. When I asked him how come one of the other boats did so well on a day when we didn't have catch anything, he laughed and said they must have had a different moon. I replied sounds good to me. The moon does matter, especially in tidal fisheries, but I feel that anytime I'm on the water there are fish willing to bite regardless of moon phase. I'ts my job to to find the fish and present the bait, or lure in the proper manner. When I fail at that task, of course it was because of the moon phase.