RAM3139

SMH head and a fattyz. I forget the name of the color, but its basically green pumpkin with blue flake.

Since I'm not an expert on reel design, I won't weigh in too much on how the design matches up to others. I have had 2 of the original SLX in my regular rotation for 4 seasons I think. They are general purpose reels for me and have seen a mix of spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, texas rigs, and frogs. I haven't had any issues with them, and between frog fishing and the occasional pike and musky, I think I've given them a pretty good workout. They don't feel as nice as my other reels (curado, zillion, older daiwa TDZs) but they have done everything I've asked of them.

I should probably experiment a bit more with different trailers, but for me its all about that erractic hunting action and the spunk shad does that. Moderate hunting on a steady retrieve and if you pump the handle quick it jumps sideways. Does anyone know how the chatterspike from zman compares to the spunkshad? I wouldnt mind a more durable option if the action was similar

A daiwa TD-Fuego and a curado 51e are still in the standard rotation. They keep working and I don't feel limited by them compared to my newer reels.

My MVP for the year was definitely a 3/8oz fogy with a spunk shad trailer. Any bluegill type color. Ned rigs and frogs were also in the mix, but the award goes to the fogy.

I fish them in a kayak quite a bit. Standing is preferred, but not always possible/safe (think 40-50 degree water temps). They can still be fished but the "jerk" is more of an upsweep than down when you are seated. Still make sure to keep slack in the line so its a pop and not a sweep. I usually fish a deeper diving jerk when I'm seated to make up for the difference in angle. Its probably a very slightly different action, but I cant say I've noticed a difference in catch rate.

Interesting discussion. I'll add a few thoughts: - I think its pretty likely that at least some of the kayak tournaments are going to start allowing 2 motors in the next few years. Kayak manufacturers are pushing things closer and closer to plastic bass boats, so I'm sure at least some tournaments will follow. You could also sell the NK300 and buy an XI3 if you really missed the spotlock after a year or two. Granted with probably losing a bit of money. - I don't fish tournaments but still would favor speed over spot lock. That said, I'd be realistic in your speed estimates with the new motor. Id guess the XTR130 is probably in the same ballpark as the PA14. I think for real tests that I've seen, that means 6.5mph or so at wide open throttle, and probably under 6 if you want the battery to last all day. Still faster than the AP by quite a bit, but I don't think 8+mph is reasonable to expect.

Interesting. I havent tried glass yet, but on a moderate graphite rod I had trouble getting it to pop free cleanly, so I went back to a MH/F. I was trying to snap it free like I do on the fast action, but maybe it would have been better just straight reeling?

I'm sure there are lots of different opinions and a lot depends on how you like to fish a bladed jig, but if I could only have one from siebert it would be the original fogy. That blade and head combo with a straight tail trailer has VERY erratic action. During a steady retrieve, give the reel handle a quick pump for half a crank and it jukes sideways a few inches. That can get the same type of reaction strike as when you rip it out of weeds, but it can be done anywhere.

Like others have said, "worth it" depends on the individual person. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have done full tear-downs on most of my reels. That said, I've gotten into the routine of doing a quick clean/lube on them once during the season and once in the winter, then every couple/few years sending them to DVT for a deep clean. They come back feeling better than new, and many are over 15 years old and still going strong. Obviously it also depends on the value of the reel, and your mindset of "replace when it wears out" vs "keep it going for as long as possible". I like having equipment and tools with a long history, but YMMV.

The knipex mini bolt cutters (8"?) are only slightly bigger than a pair on linesman pliers and very easily cut through the heaviest freshwater hooks. My thought is, if you are fishing alone and hook yourself at a weird angle, best to have something that cuts through without much pressure. They are not cheap though, so if you have some standard cutting pliers that do the trick, stick with that.

For whatever its worth, in the lakes I fish that have both pickerel and bass, I've caught plenty of bass on frogs on top of the heavy stuff, but never had a pickerel come up through for it. They have only ever hit it after it gets to open water. Not sure if that is typical, but you may not be missing out on as many pickerel as you think by not fishing in the pads.

Interesting how much difference there is in preference for setup. I'm of the mind that the less stuff in front of me, the better. And I much prefer things to be in center and low vs off to the side. My 7" center mount doesn't get in the way, but I feel if I had even a small screen off to the side it would be in the way all the time. When I see the "fully rigged" builds, I can't imagine fishing around all that stuff. To each their own though.

If it works for you, no need to change anything. I made a keel guard out of kydex. Cut a strip whatever size you want, form it with a heat gun, stick it down with lexel. Took about 15 minutes and $15 with a bunch leftover should it ever wear out. You can buy sheets on amazon for around $10

Center mounted 7" garmin. Its usually set up split between 2D and downscan, occasionally switched over to the map. Plenty big enough for me. Granted for almost 15 years I was running a black and white 3.8", so this seems like a huge upgrade still.