R H Clark

I would not use a 33! The drag is horrible and the retrieve is so rocky it might be hard to even detect light bites. On of those bumps cranking it could feel like or hide a strike. I don't know much about the Omega but you might also consider an Abumatic 170 paired with a good sensitive, light rod. I would spool it with Power Pro 30lb test 8lb dia. equiv. I would also take some 10 and 12 lb Trilene XL along just in case. Your grandpa is old enough that you should spend a few $$$ to set him up as good as possible for this trip.

Thanks for the tip! I've not had problems with Nanofil breaking due to the knot. It's likely because I use it as my ultralight line at 6lb when 4lb would be all I really need. The only problem I have ever had was abrasion. I just keep a close eye on it and retie if necessary.

I use about any good quality spinning reel but the line and rod is more important to me. I like rods 7' or longer rated 1/32-1/4, and I've been using 6lb Nanofil to cast 1/32 oz jigs.

Sometimes reels seem very expensive and budgets tight but even if it took a long while I would save and buy a Shimano Curado. I've tried cheaper reels but always came back to the Curado. Some of my cheap reels only lasted a few months before needing repairs and some just didn't cast as well as the Curado. Personally I feel that money spent on cheap reels was just wasted for me.

I've always worn cheap around $20, sunglasses in the past. It seems the quality of plastic has drastically decreased in the last year or so. I've already had 3 pairs of cheap sunglasses break on me this year. The thing is that I'm not even hard on them and they weren't stepped or sat on or anything. The plastic frames just cracked so I'm already $60 in the hole. I was thinking at this rate I better get some better glasses now. I also have a hard time getting a pair big enough for me. The Fisch are the only Costa frame that fits me. Anyway I'm going to try the Costa Fisch or maybe you guys could suggest another durable brand. Do you think the Costa plastic frames are tougher than cheaper plastic frames? What does Costa charge to replace cracked frames that don't show any other damage? I also have few places to look at glasses where I live. Is there another brand I could possibly find locally at either Bass Pro, or Gander mountain, or a sunglass hut? I've worn metal frame aviators in the past but I can't find any cheap ones that fit this year. I might go that route but actually prefer something that encloses my eyes more if I can get some durable plastic wrap around frames.

On my old boat I made brackets from some 2" aluminum angle stock. I screwed to the transom and to the back bench seat and fit my lid down flush with the back seat. I had a plywood transom, so no holes all the way through the boat. Just bolt it to the brackets. If you want to stand on it for extra casting deck just screw a vertical and horizontal 2X4 support on each side.

Lowe. To hide battery and gas you want a plywood lid that sits flush behind the rear bench seat. You need to look at a bunch of finished-decked boats to get some ideas. You have to make it so you still have easy access.

That's sort of what I as afraid of, looks like $1500.LOL Do you know, or anyone else for that matter, if the only way to connect to a Motorguide Xi5 is with the Lowrance unit? For example: IS there any after market accessory that will make it compatible with the less expensive Hummingbird?

I'm a little embarrassed to admit it but I've never used a sonar before. I've owned boats for over 30 years but just never owned a sonar of any kind. My previous boat was a 16' john with 25 hp Honda tiller steer. Last year I bought a Sea Ark River Cat 200 with 115 Suzuki 4 stroke. I've always used Motorguide so I bought an Xi5 80 lb with pinpoint GPS. From what I can gather, I need a Lowrance unit to link with my Xi5 trolling motor to control the motor from the sonar unit. I don't even know how big of a deal this is really as far as usefulness goes. Also being a new sonar owner I don't really want to spend $1500- $2000 on something that has feachers I will never even use. I can spend the money but don't know if I even should being my first unit ever. It might be prudent to get something in the $500-$700 dollar range to learn the basics so I will later know what I am even buying with a more expensive unit. My biggest need is navigation on large bodies of water since I now have the range to explore. I fish for every species that bites a hook. It would be nice to be able to locate shad to catch or find holes in the river to fish for catfish. It's basically a new world to me so I need some solid advice so I don't just waste money on something I don't even know how to take full advantage of. I'm not a dumb hayseed though and can definitely learn. I'm looking at something like the Lowrance HDS 7 to take full advantage of my trolling motor options at around $1500 but wondering if I should just get something less expensive to start with like a Hummingbird Helix 7 SI Sonar/GPS at half the price at about $700. I can spend the money but I don't want to waste it on more than I will use at my present level of knowledge.

For those using McCoy Copolymer, is there a difference between the clear blue florescent and the Xtra clear? I'm sort of between the McCoy , Yo-Zuri Hybrid, and P-Line Cx Premium, all in 6 lb test. I may buy a spool of each.

How does Suffix Elite compare to Trilene XL? I use XL and like it. I guess I'm looking to try something different but not if it isn't better. I would like something with the casting qualities of XL but a little more sensitive to detect light strikes.

I'm an old mono user and have only tried a couple of the newer braid lines. I just bought a new Stradic Ci4+ 2500 and would like to try a new line. I've used Nanofil and like it's light weight for casting 1/32 oz jigs but it's lack of abrasion resistance makes it nearly useless for me. Both Fireline and P-line CX premium have been recommended to me but I would like to hear opinions of these and any others. This reel will do double duty on 2 rods. I will likely use 6lb or possibly 8-10 lb if it's small diameter for both. On my ultralight rod, I will be casting 1/32- 1/16 jigs for crappie and on the medium rod I will be casting heavier jigs up to 1/4 oz. there are just so many new lines on the market I'm about at a loss as to what to choose. Any help is appreciated.

Yep, playing off a good name and the ignorance that more bearings must mean it's a better reel.

I should have been more specific about my custom rods. They are only custom in that no one here would likely be familiar with the brand and characteristics. A local tackle shop has them specially made for them. They are not specially made for me. They are still the best I have found for casting the 1/32 oz jigs I like to use.I have no idea of the specifications in regard to reel size. The good news is that I can try out both size reels on my rod in the store for feel. As long as the 2500 feels good on my rod, will I be loosing anything casting my 1/32 oz lures compared to the 1000 size? I can always back my line with a cheaper mono, so too much spool capacity will not be an issue. I really appreciate all the help so far, thanks!

Hello folks, sorry if this is repetitive but I searched and didn't find this answer. I'm about to buy a Stradic for crappie and panfish. I mostly cast 1/32 oz jigs with a custom 1/32-1/4 oz 7' rod. I am thinking the 1000 size would be about perfect but I am considering buying the 2500 size instead for versatility if I ever want to pair it with a heavier rod for bass. Do you think the 2500 would be a mistake on the 7' ultralight rod? I was thinking the Stradic Ci4 was so light I might be fine with the larger reel on the ultralight rod. What do you guys think?