IndianaFinesse

Do you like the shaky head worm better than the trick worms and finesse worms on a shaky head? I've use both the finesse and trick worms on shaky heads, but I have yet to buy the shaky head worm.

And this is now the second most followed thread on br, second only to the latest tackle purchase thread!

I have been trying to carve a popper, I've already got the body shaped but I was wondering how to shape the mouth and how to install the hooks and line tie? What would you use to form them, and how would you keep them in place?

I use mono on spinning reels for jerkbaits and small cranks to help keep them pinned, and to avoid cast-offs with heavy jerkbaits. Everything else gets six to twelve pound braid (gliss is my favorite), usually with a leader. I used to always use straight braid, but I started using a leader to make the bow and arrow unsnagging technique possible because of the slight amount of stretch a leader gives. Why do I use braid? Because of the extra casting distance, increased sensitivity, better long distance hook sets, and no memory. The place you usually fish is often fairly muddy, so you could probably get away with using yellow braid to make it easier to watch your line. Might be worth trying. Btw, you've probably already figured this out, but the hump just in front of the inlet of your favorite spot is a great place to fish, especially when the water is gushing in from a recent rain storm. Caught some nice bass and big crappie fishing after some heavy rain there last year, plus a very large and angry snapping turtle.

As far as specific baits, my favorites other than the baits you mentioned are: senkos either weightless sack rigged or weightless Texas rigged, pit boss Texas rigged, trick worms and finesse worms on every soft plastic rig that I can think of, and the yum crawbug on a light jig head.

With the fish ID on, the depth finder will change what it registers as fish into fish symbols. With the fish ID turned off it shows more detail and instead shows the fish as arches, you will have to practice with it a little to figure out what fish look like. Past that I can't help much, I am everything but an authority on electronics.

The bottom guide on a spinning rod is quite a bit bigger than on a casting rod, I don't think its any lower though.

Almost every soft plastic has its time and place, the same goes for the different rigging methods. Do a little research (the br articles are a good place to start) on which soft plastics and rigging methods are best for each set of conditions. Right now the bass are on steep dropping shorelines near deep water, so if possible this is where you should be fishing during the winter. Fish slow with either blade baits, small hair jigs, jerkbaits if the water is clear, or the Ned rig.

Yes, but the spine will be backward and your casting distance diminished, because when line comes off of a spinning reel it comes of in wide loops. Spinning rods have a much larger bottom eye to accommodate this and to gradually make the loops of line smaller, while a casting rod would force the line to become almost straight at the first eye, which would mean a much shorter casting distance.

A good otter pelt is worth some money... Just sayin.

I don't see the nitrous, but I do see the shimano nexave and cantana spinning reels on sale for 29.99.

I tend to put craws in three different categories, the realistic, detailed craws with less action, the medium action craws, and craws with wildly flapping appendages.that don't have much for action. The realistic, detailed craws are a somewhat over looked class of craws in my opinion. These tend to be the best when fishing for pressured or bedding bass. My favorites in this category is the yum crawbug and the gene larew salt craws. Then comes the craws that have some vibration and claw movement, but not as much as say a rage craw. I use these as general purpose craws and jig trailers. Although its not technically a craw, my favorite is the Barkley pit boss, followed by the Berkeley craw fatty. And last the craws with wildly flapping claws and a lot of vibrations and action. I use thee when the bass are very active, or when the water is muddy and I need a little more vibration. My favorites in this category are the zoom ultra-vibe speed craws and rage craws.

I'm going to go with color not mattering much, it's a heck of a lot cheaper theory to subscribe to, compared with thinking that I have to have half a dozen colors of each bait. Really simplifies bait selection to, which is always a good thing in my mind. The post Logan made about his day with KVD was interesting though, seeing how much he though color mattered that day, without worrying about selling product.

I wouldn't worry so much about using the same color as him, the other differences such as lure type, retrieve, etc. are far more important. If he was really catching them that good, then using a similar crankbait and retrieve could be effective, or something completely different might catch more and bigger bass. There are no certainties in fishing, fishing is an ongoing experiment. Oh, and you might want to bring a net next time.

Pick whatever color your confident in, that's what probably matters the most anyways, but I use the loon colored whopper plopper.

I'm confused, are you asking whether to fish slow or parallel to the bank, or are you asking if you should use square bills or plastics? There is no one right answer to either one.

I agree with bluebasser86, get the whopper plopper. The rat is effective, but usually they want it moved very slowly with long pauses that wouldn't work well in current. I start out with reeling it about a foot, and deadstick it for 2-15 seconds, give it a small twitch, and slowly reel it another foot after letting the ripples die down after the twitch. I use the whopper plopper kind of like a buzzbait, except I will occasionally stop it near a dock post or other ambush point for a second or two. I prefer the 130 size for largemouth, but I don't have much experience with smallmouth fishing.

This thread should be pinned to help cut down on all of the "best rod for baits x" threads.

The main advantages of using soft plastic boottails over huddlestons is that the soft plastic versions are cheaper and easily weedless rigged. What the Huddleston's have over the regular boot tails is a different action, a lazier, more realistic action. Plus if you think it matters, they have very realistic paint jobs.

I was thinking of getting the 6'6", 1/4-5/8 ounce rated, moderate acrion model.

Don't bother tying a leader, the bass could care less especially when flipping or pitching baits that fall fairely fast through dense cover. If you use a leader the line strength is reduced, which is not a good thing when trying to horse a big bass out of heavy cover on a short leash.

I was looking at gander mountain, and noticed they had their advantage casting rods all labeled moderate action, so I think it might work for cranks if the rating is accurate. With the %20 off everything sale going on now, its down to about $32. Has anyone used these rods, and did you like them?

I can't tell you how many times I've done this, whether its on trees, trolling motors, boat seats, etc. I roll cast the rod and push free spool to send the lure underneath a dock, only to have my reel explode in a massive backlash when the lure goes from 200 feet per seoncd to zero instantly.

Gander mountain has 20% off everything, plus free shipping over $50.

No, but I'm betting they aren't going to conduct house raids or tackle box checks to see if I posses any lead.