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TommyBass

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  1. As some others have stated, it probably matters which state you are in. In Indiana, you don't 'own' water, unless your property surrounds it. Anyone who's property touches that water is allowed full surface access. For instance, if there is a subdivision with houses surrounding the pond, and the county road touches the pond, you can fish there as long as you don't walk into someones back yard. You can also launch a boat there, and fish anywhere on the pond you wish (dropping anchor may become a grey point lol). Same would go for any of the home owners living around it. The land owners own the ground underneath the water. IF the pond were to dry up, then the owner's boundary's would become fully enforceable as they appear on a plat map.
  2. The advantages of an electric steer with i-pilot are starting to outweigh the advantages of cable steer. They turn plenty fast enough, I've owned a Terrova for 6 years after always tournament fishing with cable steers. I'll never go back. The only disadvantage of the electric steer in my eyes is that you cannot 'feel' the position of the motor. It requires the occasional glance to see head positioning and direction. Other than that, spot lock, auto pilot, and just about everything else make it hard to compete with. You'll see lots more Terrovas and Ulterras in years to come.
  3. Thanks for the input guys, good discussion with a lot of great information! I'm going to give some brighter colors a whirl and try a few other techniques out while I'm at it.
  4. Good points Senile... Structure in this lake is really lacking, at least prime time by the book off shore stuff. Most of these fish are related to the main type of structure in that they are semi close to the steepest banks. The steepest banks here fall from the bank out to the old creek channel, which is about a one foot depth change for every 1-2 ft out. It is on these banks that these fish are located 4-6 ft down, just suspended over the deepest area, which varies from 8-15 ft. Do any of you experience that the jerkbait's 'pause' needs to be extended in the dirtier water? For instance, maybe let it sit 10 seconds instead of the 5 you would in clear water? What about soft stick baits (ie senkos)? Has anyone had luck substituting these out in similar scenarios for hard jerkbaits? I know that doesn't solve any visibility issue, but maybe a different look.
  5. I've thought of the lipless crankbait Sam, but was too scared to waste my time on it. I didn't know if bass would hit one at the speed I'd need to run it to keep it at 4 ft or so over that water. I'll give it a shot if you think that'll work in 43 degree water.
  6. What about action on your trailer craw? Do you use something toned down for the winter like a standard zoom chunk or higher action like a rage? I didn't know if you meant a rage "baby craw" or just meaning a small craw trailer? Thanks for the advice!
  7. Ok, so I have some fish located off of main lake points in my midwest resevoir. The fish seem to be off of the bank a ways, and suspended in 4-6 ft of water over 8,10, even 14 feet of water. I know this seems like a pretty classic jerkbait bite, but the water in this lake is fairly stained, maybe 1 ft visibility at best. Water temps are running 43-45 degrees mid morning. What are your suggestions on how to catch these fish? My issue with the jerkbait is fish don't really come to it from a distance, as they can't see it well. So your really fishing a pretty slow technique only hoping to run close to a fish. But is there really a better option? Not sure if spinnerbaits or shallow cranks are too much for this time of year, and my standby classics like the jig and carolina rig are all fishing under them. Or should I maybe keep with the jerkbait and try a bright color or? Any help please!?!?
  8. Personally, I can tell alot more using the traditional sonar than down imaging. If money is no option, yes, it is nice to have that option and can give great detail. But when I am fishing a tournament, 9/10 times my bow HDS-7 is set to standard sonar. Bottom hardness and make up show much better, and it seems more 'real time' to me for some reason. Drop shotting using downscan is much harder as well. Now side scan is a different story, its pretty much worth it all around
  9. I replaced mine after one broke with a standard kayak kind you get from Bass Pro or wherever. Its the kind that comes with its own base and the plastic plug screws in and out. I had to take a drill and make the hole in the pontoon a little larger, then it slid right in. Then drill holes for your screws. Make sure you use a good sealant around the screw holes (2) and around the edge of the plug insert itself. Honestly I like this style better than the kind that comes on it. Lot easier to get back in. http://www.basspro.com/Replacement-Kayak-1-Drain-Plug-Assembly/product/10225363/
  10. How does that not make sense to you? A guy's truck gets tampered with while he talks to another guy down at the ramp. It just so happens that this other guy is friends with the missing guy that has been gone a suspisciously long time. In the SAME area that his truck was tampered with at. If anything you'd think he would have seen someone doing it. Granted, no, he dosn't have any proof. But it would leave me suspicious too. It could also be total coincidence.
  11. I thought about a 1 oz too, but I didn't know how well that would work for me wanting to make a random 'wake' cast up shallow occaisionally. Guess I could just put up two different sizes on two different rods....
  12. Thanks for the replies, thats some good information to start with. How heavy of a spinnerbait would you recommend for fishing 8-15 ft weed lines? I can't deceide between 1/2 and 3/4. I will most likely be using at least a small trailer so that will add a little resistance.
  13. Hello all, I'm heading out to fish a lake soon that constantly produces good bags with this technique. Problem is, I have no experience doing it. It has vast weed beds that run from just under the surface down to 15ft +. The water isn't super clear, but it has 4-5' visibility on most days. From what I can tell, most people catch these fish 10-18 ft deep around these beds. My question is, how do you guys do this technique? What do you look for on your sonar to know where to start? The last time I fished the lake I noticed some fish holding 2-3 ft off the bottom in 18 ft of water just on the outisde edge of these beds. Do you try to keep the bait in a certain zone, or slow roll it toward the bottom in areas that meet the depth criteria? I'm not a seasoned spinnerbait or weed fisherman, I'm more of a jig and brushpile type of guy I've read all the articles I can find so far, and they just arn't satisfying my thirst for knowledge! Any help with this technique would be greatly appreciated! PS... any advice on something other than a spinnerbait that would also work in this scenario would be helpful too. Last year, anything texas rig or jig oriented would catch a fish for me. Its not my home lake so I don't know of too many brush piles to hone on. A chatterbait was my best bite then.
  14. Interesting, I may have to give this a shot in my next practice round or two. Do you reel as fast as you possibly can? Or more of a general tough grind it out reel motion?
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