dampeoples

Thanks guys I used automotive paints on the reel, I think it was Carrizma from BASF. Nasty stuff, I'm not gonna use it anymore, I bought it before I read the MSDS, which basically said I'm gonna die young and hairless now I did a handle as well, these were quick and dirty, but still came out OK, working on longevity of the finish now.

Just so you guys don't get sticker shock...jobs like this go for $300 or more, generally done on motorcycle helmets and such, but a fish hedz is sort of like that, just 1/2 of one. If that's more than you thought (not trying to insult anyone, just tossing it out there, it ain't a crankbait), have you guys considered looking into decals? For the logo and lettering, one would have to be cut anyway, more than likely.

Just a quick note, I amended our first page to say Louisburg, NC as opposed to Franklinton, NC! Seems there is a Franklin, NC as well, it's on the Western side of the state, already had a little bit of confusion (sorry about that!)

I've fished this club off and on for the past ten years, but decided to start a site for them, it's the Goldsand Bassmasters. Here is the link: http://www.goldsandbassmasters.com I'd love any sort of input you guys might have, I'm not quite done yet, but close!

I've been silent for a while, been really, really busy with work and such! It's also prime fishing season now, at least here, but unfortunately, I've been unable to go but a few times! I fished my first tournament of the year, at Lake Gaston and came in third, as well as taking big fish. Not bad for my first time out for the year I've managed to go by the pond once as well, only caught one, but man it felt nice to get out! On to the new stuff. Remember that green Norman pattern with all the glitter? Me too, and so do a lot of folks, apparently, as I've had that requested a LOT lately, including this Lucky Craft: I've got a few that have not made it all the way through the process yet of this color, maybe Sunday i'll have some more pics, including a Chug Bug I really like. Sometimes, after I refinish a lure, I can't dammit stand it, and want to keep it for me, this is one of those lures! Probably the most fun I've had painting in a long time was this project; a repaint of a reel! This one is a Daiwa BBS, and it was problematic for me. Not the reel, but me A fellow sent it to me from Japan to paint, and left the scheme completely up to me. I was flattered, to be honest, I mean, Japan? Surely there are a few guys over there that can do that! That was the main problem, I wanted it to be something special. I started and stopped about a dozen times, finally settling on this: I've got a few rod handles i'm working on as well, those were left up to me as well, at least for the most part, so hopefully they won't take as long to get started! Here are a few more repaints: and some flashy stuff I've been working on All this was done in between trying to maintain my website, which I completely redesigned this year, as well as start two more, one a salon for a friend, as well as a site for my club. I can't wait until all of this is done, I've got one more site to do, then it should be on to the lake!

That's mistake number two. Don't give someone else a head start on copying your design. Show pictures of it when you're done. If you showed it to me, for example, and I liked it, tweaked it a bit, then sold it, you wouldn't have a leg to stand on, especially if I got a patent before you did. Edit: I didn't read it very well, and that's what you wanted to do, but still, if you intend to protect it, I guess I should say don't release it until you're ready to sell, or others might sell it before you.

You find yourself some professional legal advice, and not take suggestions from non-lawyers on fishing forums You'll hear all sorts of things like mailing yourself a letter with your idea, maybe even a sample in it to get a postmark, proving you were the first, which has been disputed over and over again, to even more crazy ideas. The fact of the matter is you won't get ANY good advice other than to speak with a professional. Good luck with your idea

I have a sample of a 90 or 60 widegap Mustad in the shop, I'll go look up the number tomorrow. What do you mean get them the design? You are going to have to give the moldmaker of a silicone mold a sample per cavity. A CNC machine guy will be able to draw you one out, or you can submit them a drawing. Is there a similar design as to what you want? Might be easier to have the mold modified to fit the new hook, although, once again, that's gonna pose problems to the silicone guy. If you can carve something out of wood, or possible hard clay, you may can make a mold that way. You would have to make the prototype, mold it, then pour it, then make a production mold from the pours.

Silicone will surely work, it's what the spincast guys use a lot of. If you do not want to go the curly spring route, you can opt to use a painted bard like the Giggy head, which, IMO, works as well, and the cost is low per head. You have to remember to hold the heat source close to the head when powder painting them, I ruined many of mine out of my Giggy mold not paying attention! Be sure you think your design out properly with the 28* hook, I do not think it would stand up straight, or much at all, but have not tried it!

Yes

Why thank you! I changed my site around yesterday, completely forgetting I had pictures out that wouldn't be able to be shown. There

Just finished these!

Sounds like a two part mold, you more than likely have one of two problems. The first - is it vented well? The steam will need somewhere to go. The second - how thin/thick is the tail? If it's too thin, it will need to be injected to fill, as gravity alone will not pull the plastic down before it cools.

I think you're dead on Harshman, it's not something to take lightly at all.

Nice looking baits Allen, I need to get back in the shed and catch up to you

He doesn't have a job, he's a machine

I'll second what he said, there's not a better guy to deal with anywhere.

I forgot about this thread! Thanks for the compliments, I'd be lying if I said I wasn't fishing for them sometimes, but hey, who isn't proud of their creations As far as the frog, it's not Del's, it's from Bob's Tackle Shack, I don't know how I missed that before! Sam - Thanks! Folks like you are the reason I know how to do most of what I do, your sharing, then my tinkering. I love that flashabou stuff too, I wanna say the Arkie company uses either that or the Mir-a-Flash on on of their spinnerbaits, it's pretty popular around here. I've since learned how to tie feathered trebles, but MY baits get the flashabou Thanks searoach, as stated earlier, that color was an accident, but man do people (and fish!) like it. I do sell, but i'm not able to link to myself (as per the board rules) in threads, but I think it's in my profile.

I carried mail to two tire shops, and got theirs, and got some clean lead a long time ago off eBay for cheap, it's too expensive now! I've also got a plumber buddy that gets it for me, it's soft, but got stuff on it, but that burns off easily. One thing; tire weight lead is harder than pure lead, it's got stuff added to it, it's perfect for larger things, but if you want to pour anything that's small or pretty detailed, it doesn't always work well. I've heard adding a drop of wax to the lead helps, but have never tried it. I got enough free that I just cut the lead off around the clip, it wasted a lot, but it was free. Be careful when melting tire weights and lead that's been outside, even a tiny drop of water will 'explode' in the pot, sending hot led everywhere.

Look to lurecraft.com for your rubber, they also have the best collars made.

If you can swing it, pick up a Fluid bed from Ben (TJ's Tackle), and that'll allow you to be a little less consistent with the heat times, oven times, etc, as the bed suspends the powder in the cup, and it's way, way easier to paint them, especially in quantity. One other thing to check is your oven, make sure it's the right temp, you would be surprised how much they vary from what the thermostat reads, especially in different places in the oven. I picked up a toaster oven for around $20, and when I set it on 260-275, it is really 350, I found that out the hard way, my first run, I set it to 350 for 15 minutes, I'm guessing it was 420 or so, ruined a batch of 100 shakey heads!

I just use waterbased paint. Createx is a good brand, and available at hobby stores. The craft paints at Wal-Mart work as well, you just have to thin them more. Just about all of the paints you are going to have to thin, they need to be a milk-like in their thickness. I use the same paints for everything except powder paints, of course. The key is practice, not the brand or type of paint, although Taxidermy paints are good paints. Speaking of that...here is an in progress of a bass I'm working on, I'm trying to redo all of the patterns I've done in the past, and make them look better. It's fun, and I'm spending a lot of time on them in this off season, keeps me from wishing I was at the lake! Not that it's that cold around here, but I've gotten less bullet-proof as I've gotten older, hehe.

It's all in the practice! iIhave sprayed gallons and gallons of paint trying to get it right You'll get there, you just have to stick with it

I'd say around $200 for a good setup. If you have a tool compressor, you can use that. I used mine for years, got a mini compressor for Christmas because the wife was tired of me running the hose through the house If you have that, you can spend more on the brush. It really is the most important piece, IMO. You don't need to rush out and get a Ferrari, but don't buy a Pinto either, it'll frustrate you to no end. For the compressor, where are you painting? If it's in the house, and you cannot run a hose inside, you might want to look at an airbrush compressor, but if you can deal with the noise, or paint in a shop, you're money will go further with a tool compressor, and if you don't like to paint, you can still get use out of that around the house. For the paint, lots of guys use the liquid acrylic paints at Wal-Mart, brands like Apple Barrell or Plaid. Just thin them to the consistancy of milk with water, or you could use stuff like Createx. A lot of places have sets where you can pick up a basic set for $20 or less, and mix from that, or have enough to get started.

It being in the toy section should tell you something It's probably a Testors branded Aztek, or a single action brush. Go with one of the brands mentioned, and you'll be happy with your purchase.