Molay1292

While MG is the lightest structural metal available, it has incredible dampening ability, as much as 10X greater than aluminum. They use it to mount very delicate electronic instruments in modern aircraft because it is so quiet. (as in no vibration) What I wonder about fishing reels is just how much MG is contained in the alloy the frames are made of. I would bet that it is not nearly as high as some would have you believe. The reason I mention this is that when you run dry ceramic bearings in a MG reel they almost always seem to be louder than in an AL reel.

I had one more thought on this and then I will step out. It is possible that you still have a poor/bad trailer ground. Remember that if the primary ground is bad the trailer will still try to ground itself through the ball and hitch. Because your connections make for a dim light and another vehicle makes for brighter lights can be explained by just having a better grounding connection through the ball and hitch on the other vehicle. You stated that when you grounded using jumper cables everything was good, which would explain and support my theory. I believe that you could test for a poor/bad trailer ground by not hooking the trailer to the hitch and just connecting the plug, this would eliminate possible grounding through the hitch. If you have no lights then you know you have bad ground on the trailer.

Because vehicles and boat trailers are both frame grounded, if one or the other ground wires at the plug are loose or not making a good connection the lights might be dim. What typically happens is because the primary ground through the plug is bad or broken the trailer will try to ground itself anyway possible, usually trough the ball and hitch, which is not good ground. I know this does not help with the fix, but it might help with the diagnosis.

I hear ya, it's kind of funny every year they say the reel is X% lighter than previous model, and casts Y% better. Seems like by now they should be weightless and cast to the moon. Reels have as many catch phrases as new cars.

Outside the grooving issue that has been addressed, what is the negative associated with the TWS system?

Cool, glad you figured it out, get it fixed and let us know how you like it.

I recently switched from a pistol to a revolver. I purchased the Ruger LCR 9MM revolver, comfortable gun with a good trigger.

Seems odd, the only link that I can think of between the cast control and handle is the amount of tension you apply to the spool shaft. Take the cast control cap off and make sure all of the shims that are shown in schematics are installed and in the correct order. Other than that I would have to see it myself.

Paul, why do you feel it is an advantage to set your spinning reels in this manner?

Just my thoughts but it sounds like you may be tightening the cast control knob too much. It is normal for the handle to be difficult to turn if you have the spool tension knob overly tight.

My Granddaughter watches this show all the time and I catch myself singing along.

Standing on a hill in my mountain of dreams telling myself it's not a hard, hard, hard as it seems. Going to California - Led Zeppelin

An EH / MF rod is going to bend deeper into the blank before it shuts off than the EH / F. How much is going to depend on the rod in question, some MF rods lean towards the moderate side more and other lean towards the fast.

If your a fan of the old Zillion reels based on the TDZ frame, do some research on the new SV-103, might stretch your budget just a little.

Not crazy if it works for you. but I am interested in why you prefer the moderate action with the buzzbait.

Chatter-baits with a split-ring connection create a lot of blade vibration but tend to move the bait as whole less. Direct connect blades have slightly less vibration but move the whole bait better. The baits that tend to move the most in my opinion are the baits that have an extended wire off the nose and a direct connection. Baits using this type of connection effectively make the bait longer and create more movement at the rear of the bait or trailer. Using only one type, limits your options, and there are very good baits made in all of these styles.

I would argue that what you are talking about falls into the category of conditioned response rather than learning.

I use a moderate action rod for baits with treble hooks that are worked with the reel. Any bait that requires being worked with the rod I use something with a faster action. Too much flex in the rod for spinner baits and buzz baits [IMO] , you have to set a large single hook with a heavier bait that may be out a good distance, I don't want to have to deal with a slow action rod. Same deal with top water baits and jerkbaits for me, when I want to impart action on the bait I do not want a slow action rod. Everyone has their own preferences as you will soon see, you will need to figure out what works for you.

I am under the impression that bass are neither smart or dumb. In fact I am not sure that they are capable of thinking or reasoning at all. I tend to lean towards the theory that everything they do is genetically programed in them and they are totally reactionary.

Starting to sound a little like MLF.

Joanna is the name of St.Peter and St.Andrew the Apostles and Patron Saints of fishing, Mother. You could call her Jo, and when you are asked why a girl dog with the name Jo, you would have an interesting story to tell.

I will admit I did not read the entirety of each post in this topic. If I understand correctly you stated you are casting the crawfish lure on 65lb braid. If this is the case, try it with around 12lb FC or CoPoly and report back.

Air hammer and rivet set kit wont set you back more than about 60 dollars and you can fix your problem now and any that arise in future. You could also look at purchasing a few blind fasteners such as sealed riv nuts if the areas are hard to reach both sides of.

Spoonplugging