Molay1292

I have seen their tests, and the methods they used to conduct them. They did a good job recording and reporting the results as tested.

I have never had to modify a mold to use an 32833, they will not work in all instances but there are many molds that will accept them without modification, ball head jigs is one that I know of for sure.

Anything to support these claims or is this strictly an opinion?

I believe that we typically replace the 570 with a 32833 Black Nickel hook. Many times you can also go 1 size over on the hooks if desired.

I have spooled a couple more spinning reels with the Gliss, both in 18 and 24 lb. test. I will report back after I have had a chance to put some time on the line. Hope it ends up as good as I think it is going to be.

Yes, Wolf to Melvern, figure if it holds up at those places it is probably good stuff.

If you are looking at the Do-It line of molds, many other hooks will work in place in of the 570 -575 hooks that they often recommend.

I just wanted to add a little to the two great reviews that have already been presented. I have had the opportunity to use the 18# test Gliss line on a spinning reel. The lakes that I used the line in are both heavily infested with Zebra Muscle. My normal choice of line for these lakes is PP Slick 8 in 10# test and a long 6-8# test FC leader. I decided that I would test this line with no leader at all just to get a feel for what it was actually capable of. I tied the line using the recommended knots on the packaging, uni to uni for tying to my backing and palomar to the bait. The fishing was slow, so I went to a bait that has always produced well for me on these lakes, I tied on a Kietech 4" Easy Shiner, it wasn't long before I had the first fish on, it was not the smallmouth that I had hoped for but instead a fish that truly give the line and knots a good test, a 6# wiper. It was not long before I had a second fish hooked up and again it was a nice 5# wiper, the line and knots performed perfectly. The fishing slowed to almost nothing so we decided to move to lake #2, a lake that is even more infested with razor sharp Zebra Muscle, I retied checking my line, I noticed no nicks, cuts, or fraying from the previous lake. For the new lake I chose to use the Ned Rig, it is a good bait for numbers and I have had great luck with it. The fishing was extremely slow, without much to show for about 4hrs of fishing, however, fishing the Ned Rig in heavy rip rap and having many snags that I was able to free I checked my line frequently, it held up great, no fraying, no unexpected break offs, just good fishing. At the end of the day I showed my line to my fishing partner and it did have a small cut in the line, after fishing for more than an hour without re-tying. He was as amazed as I, I highly recommend this line, it is everything they say it is, in my opinion. I have opted to move to the 24# test because of it's slightly larger diameter, makes knot tying a little easier, I have no doubt about this line and it's performance as of now, will report if something changes.

Great observation!

MH F rod in about 7ft, go a little shorter for accuracy a little longer for casting distance. You can use any line that matches your fishing conditions, keep in mind you are setting a big single hook in a lot of instances so compensate a little for that fact. Chatterbaits or what ever you want to call them are all basically the same, they are a jig with a blade and skirt. Pick one with a good hook and it will work well.

I like your thinking because it is on the safe side of things. However I don't believe that the alarm would sound with only the ignition on if it were anything other than a sensor.

Yes you can, but be careful not to run low on oil as I am sure you already know.

There are usually only a couple of sensors on those engines, over temp and oil. I have heard of a lot of them having problems with the oil sensor in the tank. You can disconnect the sensors one at a time from the harness and see which one is causing the alarm.

In my opinion only, all roads lead to Daiwa and Shimano, just depends on how long you hold out and how much money you want to spend before you get there.

Give 18 or 24lb Gliss a try, I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

Or is it seasoned Big Game for McDonald's Anglers?

I think that the tests that many people quote from another popular site shed some light, but only to the fact that both FC and Mono do in fact have "X" amount of stretch at breaking strength. What I don't agree with is that the amount of stretch at breaking strength tells the whole story. What I would like to see is a test that first determines the breaking strength of a line. Once breaking strength has been determined then measure the amount of stretch at different percentages. For instance measure the stretch at 15 percent of breaking strength, then 30, 45, 60, 75 and finally 90. I personally don't care how much stretch a line has at breaking strength, it does not tell me anything, I want to see how the line performs during it's working strength. I think this type of test would show something that FC mfg's have claimed for quite a while, that FC does in fact stretch less than mono, but at working strength not breaking strength. Anyway just something I have thought about for a while. Off the soap box now.

I'm interested in hearing a little more about your thoughts on mono line and stretching. I am wondering if you're saying that the amount of stretch in mono line is exaggerated, or if the effects of mono line stretching are exaggerated? Anyway a .01 for your thoughts.

Keitech Easy Shiner

American Legacy Fishing is the place. Sign up for their news letter.

I am having a hard time finding anything wrong with 24lb Gliss.

Centrarchidae?

How's the water looking on the East end of the lake? (Clarity) How's the water looking on the East end of the lake? (Clarity)

Rods as an investment are a loosing proposition, never get out of them what you paid. Lots of good rods on the market and like many have already said, I don't think that I would feel so compelled to stick with one brand. Choose the best rod you can afford for the technique you want to fish, it will give you a lot more enjoyment than all of your rods looking the same. I would stick with the name brands that have a history of good quality and support. St. Croix, Dobyn's, G Loomis, Falcon to name a few.

U40 for me, have used it for years and have not noticed any build up or being uneven.