Molay1292

I think I understand what your asking, and the best answer that I have is that each line will form its own curve when tested.

Scott, please take a look at the chart I posted in the post above. I may not have done a good job of explaining but the chart shows it well. All line reaches a portion of its breaking strength called it's elastic limit, once it exceeds this limit it will not return to it's original shape. In the chart, the line tested elongated 11% at it's breaking strength about 8lbs, but lost it's ability to return to shape (elastic limit) at about 6.5% elongation (stretch) @ 6 1/2lbs.

I think that there is both truth, myth, and misunderstanding in this statement. All line reaches a point where it will not return to its original shape. This is what defines the elastic limit of a fishing line. When most lines stretch they form a very parabolic curve in relation to the force that is being applied to them until they reach their elastic limit, at this point stretch becomes much greater than the applied force and the curve becomes flat. Once the line reaches it elastic limit it will continue to stretch to its breaking strength. This is one of the reasons why measuring line stretch at breaking strength is somewhat meaningless, to get a true understanding of what's happening with fishing line, you need to measure the amount of stretch that occurs within its elastic limit. As Catt and others have stated, during normal fishing conditions you will never apply enough force to the line to reach any where near its elastic limit. When they measure a lines elastic limit it is always done wet and knot tied, they do it wet because Nylon line stretches quite a bit more wet than dry and looses breaking strength. In fact most lines exhibit more stretch when wet. This is the same method the IGFA uses to verify line strength when testing line class record submissions.

In my opinion it reads more like a cover letter than a resume. There are several grammatical mistakes and some sentence structure errors. I would not recommend a list of companies that you currently represent, may give the impression that you are too busy to properly represent company X. Don't mean to sound harsh

Pink is a good color in clear water and also in shallower semi-stained. I knew a guy who used pink under bridges, said that he felt like it was a good match for the baby birds that hatch and fall in the water under bridges.

proofs in the pudding

I think that the ML spinning rods from St.Croix are among the best produced.

I get most of my stuff from fishingskirts.com, they have a good selection of skirts that are ready to install or skirt tabs that are ready to tie. My advice is if you want a skirt to stay on for a while, build your skirt and install with the rubber bands, and then wire tire it once you have it like you want it. Very addictive hobby.

Most jigs are designed to fish on the bottom and popular sizes are 3/8 and 1/2 oz without trailer, I don't think any line is going to keep it off of the bottom. FC leader with braid is going to offer some shock resistance during hookset, the line is less visible in water(maybe), abrasion resistance to some cover and structure is better. Spybaits to my knowledge are slow sinking baits that are counted down, often used to attract suspending fish. If I were fishing this technique I would ditch the braid and fish them on very light FC line, less visible, light line allows the bait to more freely and naturally. I don't think the spybait would be a bait I would work the bottom with. Suspending fish in clear water can be a real challenge for anyone to catch, spybaits are kind of a finesse approach in my book. Don't know if this helps any but if you have more specific questions I am sure you will get some great answers.

What is it you're fishing on the bottom?

If you don't know anything else about fishing line, take the time to look up the phrase "Elasticity Limit" as it applies to fishing lines. The only data that means much to me is the measured elongation of properly prepared fishing line, ie. water soaked and knot tied, at specified intervals within the "Elasticity Limit" of the line being tested. The rest is fairly useless other than breaking strength in relation to diameter in my opinion.

spool shaft ends, internal bore of pinion gear, metal clutch parts, tension disks if they are brass, sometimes polishing the drag washers is a part of a supertune. You can even go as far as polishing the lips of your spools. Just depends on how detailed you want to get.

”Wet vs. Dry” The above line stretch test was conducted with dry lines, which raises the question of whether mono, co-polymer and fluorocarbon lines stretch differently when wet? Two lines in each category were soaked for 24 hours and re-tested. Results were as follows: Fluorocarbon lines Sunline Sniper: dry 26 1/2 inches vs. wet at 27 1/8. Berkley 100% fluorocarbon: dry 38 3/8 inches vs. wet at 39 inches. Co-Polymer lines Yo-Zuri Hybrid: dry 22 1/8 vs. wet at 25 1/4 P-Line CX Premium: 23 1/2 vs. wet at 35 1/8 Mono Trilene XT: dry 21 1/4 vs. wet at 28 7/8 Trilene XL: dry 24 3/4 vs. wet at 36 1/2 Not sure that is what these number indicate or am I reading it incorrectly?

Not as hard core as many of the others, but the one that still gets me is Roger Daltrey - Rein O'er Me. What a powerful voice that man has.

If it has a drain plug, just put a little water in the hull, tip the boat until it is in the general area of the dent. When you get enough water in it you should be able to just lift that corner of the boat and the weight of the water may pop it out.

Not my numbers brother, you're preaching at the quire.

Still working on it, let you know when I am done. Some told me a story one time. The owner of a shop comes to visit the manager of his worst performing store, when he notices the manager he asks how things are going. The manager with a huge smile on his face replies that sales are 100%. The owner walks to the register to find only two dollars in the cash register. Moral of the story, numbers don't lie, but liars use numbers.......

Found some notes and this is what I was able to come up with for replacement hooks for 570-575. Mustad Ultra point 32746 -756 as Smalljaw mentioned Gami 114 Owner 5318 I think I have used the 5318 more than others because I can get them locally. Good luck

I can appreciate what you are saying more than you know. I think the people at Dobyn's are good people and have common sense. I hope or would love to think that if you presented your situation to them as you have to me that you will be treated with respect and possibly an outcome that is good for both parties. Hope your wife feels better soon.

I just want to stand up a little for the folks at Dobyn's Rods. They are as easy and polite to work with as anyone in the industry. They do more in terms of discounts and support for Veterans than anyone in the business. Maybe I am biased but they are good people that are easy to work with. First let me say that I understand your disappointment with how they are treating this transaction. When I thought it through it looks like this to me. You purchased a model that was being phased out at a discounted price, this model is no longer in stock or a part of their line up. When you asked to exchange the rod they probably were not aware it was an older model rod and were willing to exchange it straight across. When they became aware of the fact it was an older model, they were still willing to upgrade to the new model but asked for the price difference between what you paid for the old model and the price of the new model. To me the fact that they are willing to upgrade at all says good things about their company. Call them (again) calmly explain your situation and ask if they can help you. I hope it works out to your satisfaction, if not the worst thing is you have a nice rod that you may be able to sell easily.

I have yet to figure if the Lews reels are made by Dawon or Doyo, or maybe even a different company. Dawon and Doyo own facilities in both Korea and China to my knowledge. Determining country of origin is difficult, even when you have a tag on a product that says made in Mexico it often does not tell the whole story. You could have parts made in Korea, then imported to China for assembly and then exported to the U.S. the country of origin or the made in tag would most likely say China even though the parts came from Korea. You see this a lot here in the U.S. as well with the made in the U.S.A. labeling. Look at fishing rods, eyes from somewhere, reel seats from somewhere else, blanks made in the U.S. and assembled here in U.S., tag says made in the U.S.A. not exactly the whole truth is it...

First let me apologize for the quality of the photo. I found a few hooks in the house where I have used both a 570 and a black nickel hook in the same mold, I think all are 2x hooks except for the top left. The top right does not have a picture of the 570 bronze hook, both are a 2x black nickel hook. The picture does not do justice to the actual thickness difference in the wire used in the hooks but you may be able to see it. Now I just need to find my notes on what hooks I actually used. The top right hooks are very nice for the smaller 4" Kietech swimbaits, the screwlock really helps keep the bait in nice shape and I can catch multiple fish on the same bait.

You may be correct, I do use a 2X bln hook in some of the molds but I am starting to think that it may be an owner. I was going to check today, at any rate sorry if I gave anyone bad information. I only pour small heads 1/16, 1/8, 3/32 and I remember an issue like this but seems like when I went to a 1 size over hook that it resolved at these weights. Thanks for the info.

Funny

I agree with you to a point, but if there is a method of testing that you can use to eliminate lines without having to spend wasted time on the water and money purchasing, would that not make more sense, and better use of your time on the water?