Molay1292

Is there a reason you have settled on these two types of bearings?

I own many Pflueger reels throughout their line-up, the Presidents I have owned were good reels but they did exhibit some flex in the reel stem. I have seen a few come back with broken reel stems, a very small percentage compared to what is sold. I prefer the Daiwa RG-AB at this price range, every bit the reel that the Pflueger is, and I prefer the frame material. The Supreme and Supreme XT are both very nice reels as well, mag frame, better internal materials, better drag, nice reels all the way around, hard to beat at about a 100 dollars, the Patriarch is a very light reel and a pleasure to fish with, but once you start spending this kind of money you have a lot of options. Great all around reels through out the line up and you would not be sorry for choosing any of them.

Not if you are buying in small numbers

Yes, I do

I have no argument with anyone, I just asked a question supported by fact, why do these jig heads cost so much in relation to the cost of making them. That is it.

I understand your point, I do have a website, I do spend the money, web hosting, domain name, data management and automated inventory fees, credit card processors, analytics, SEO, and also deduct it all on taxes so it really plays no role in pricing. When I talk 100% margin, I am not talking from mfg to wholesaler to retailer, I am talking a product that it is made and sold by yourself. If you were to make those same jig heads for a wholesaler you would be lucky to get 20% margin on cost, because he has to sell them cheap enough that his retail buyers can make 40% or it's not worth their time other than a customer convenience. Shipping is a whole other subject and all I will say is many people also make money on order filling. I have made no claim to being able to do it cheaper, I asked why this type of jig head is so expensive when compared to the cost to produce it. Why it matters to me is, I use a lot of this particular type of jig head, sometimes I lose as many as 20 in a day, so the cost of the heads is important to me. I will return your question, "why does it matter to you?"

No need to apologize as your post is correct. I can provide you a wholesale distributor for Owner hooks if you are interested, you can buy in lots of 570 hooks and stay just below .30 each for a 1/0. I agree the product that Mike is building is far superior to the Z-Man shroom heads, but I still feel that they are a little overpriced. My experience is that if you have to go over 100 percent on margin to capture your cost and make a little profit, you have to find a better process. My calculations are like this .28 cents a hook + .03 cents for the wire keeper + .02 cents of lead + .02 cents of paint. This is about .35 cents for a 1/16th oz jig, and maybe just a tad more as they get heavier. Of course this is just material. Again I appreciate your post as it was factual and not personal. Just as mine is intended.

My math skills are certainly not great so it is entirely possible that I made a mistake, here is my price for the Owner hooks. size 1/0 57 hooks to pack 10 pack minimum order, $16.09/pack Now that I look, I see I did make a mistake, the cost of the hook would be closer to 28 cents at the price I buy at. My apology. Material is closer to 35 cents, a lot more expensive than what I had figured in my original post.

Lew's seem to be a fine product, lots of people using their product. I purchased 5 of the original Tournament Pro reels shortly after Lews made their initial offerings, I enjoyed fishing those reels but ultimately found something that suited me a little better. I find their current line-up of reels to be very jumbled and somewhat confusing. In my opinion a cleaner more defined line of products would be more appealing.

Sorry, but I have to ask why these are so expensive? A 1/0 Owner 5313 hook purchased in bulk is about 3 cents even after paying the 10% excise tax on them. The hook keepers when purchased in bulk are about 3 cents, a very small amount of lead and a tiny bit of powder paint make up the materials. Call it 10 cents to be fair. So why the need to make such a huge margin on a product like this, why not the standard 40-45% margin that is typical for retailers? Even a 100% margin on this product keeps the price at about 20-25 cents a piece. Jigs I understand, they take a little more time and have a creative aspect to them. There is just nothing special about these jig heads.

Dawon actually does a majority of the Bass Pro reels.

Used or new, do you have something that you're looking at and trying to find a good price on?

I would use a rod with a little faster action for topwater. Moderate action rods have more give in them than I like when working the bait. It may be a matter of preference but when I want to put some action on the bait I do not want half the rod flexing. The other side of the coin is that the moderate action rod will help keep a fish pinned better. I typically use fast action rods with a soft tip for my topwater baits, power is dependent on the weight of the bait and conditions I am fishing in.

The value of something is what you can get someone to pay for it. You can always negotiate.

A small piece of split shot, a small hook and a small piece of worm will catch you a lot of bluegill/sunfish.

Can't overlook the second half of the I.P.T. equation, spool diameter, you need both to have a reel with high I.P.T.

In my use they are different rods, my frog rods are heavy power / fast action and my top water rods are MH / F and XF. I work all of these baits tip down, I don't like a rod any longer than I can work without hitting the water or side of the boat, I am about 6' and the rods I choose are a little less than 7'. I also like rods that have a shorter but end to keep it from getting tangled in jackets and other cold weather gear.

Armilo has much less stretch.

Which one do you use?

Malaysia I believe.

I am right handed and switch hands during the cast with all my bait casting equipment.

OK, let us know how that goes for you.

Quantum Annex is that correct, I ask because I am not finding the reel using a search. Couple other things, you are not setting magnetic bearings, you are setting magnetic brakes, and you don't loosen the spool gear , you loosen the spool tension cap. I understand you need help with your reel and there are some here that will do that for you if you communicate a little better. Get your information together and let's see what we can do to get you fixed.

I think reels should be disassembled at least once every year, everything needs a good deep cleaning and re-oil, re-grease and a close inspection. Rods I clean the cork with magic eraser and seal with U40. The blanks get cleaned with soap and water and the guides checked. I use Cal's drag grease, TG Rocket fuel and TSI 301/321 primarily for oil and grease, I use safety clean in my parts washer, to clean with, mild simple green solution in the ultrasonic cleaner and acetone to clean all bearing other than bearings with plastic or polymer cages, then I use Coleman fuel. Rods and reels need cleaned and inspected, the last place you want problems is on the water. It is not hard if you have mechanical skills, just need to pay close attention to orientation, that is what usually gets guys, most can read a schematic and reassemble, but the schematics are often not clear enough to determine orientation. There are knowledgeable guys on the forum that can help if you run into problems, just have to ask for help.

Currently testing 13lb Sunline Defier Armilo Monofilament. Typically use Seaguar Tatsu or Invisx in 12lb, I like the fact the FC does not have much bow in the line which keeps you in touch with the bait, and has good sensitivity on a controlled slack line fall.