fishnkamp

Yea and right now I have a place to get a Tatula CT for $80 or a Fuego CT for $60 including shipping. That 7' MH with a Tat CT for a total cost of $130 would be great. So would the combo of that rod and a Fuego CT for $110.

The Irod IRG754 is just a special rod. That Genesis II series fishes much more like a Dobyns Champion XP than a Fury series rod. As for the Daiwa rod I would stay with the Tatula XT series rather than the Arid X. The Fury series (including the FR 734C) use a very good blank and decent components and since it is a Dobyns it is well balanced with a typical reel on it. The 734C is available in almost every Dobyns series and each one is a tad bit different because of the blanks used. The Fury series blanks act a bit more like the Champion XP series . They have the traditional Dobyns power and taper so a 734C in those series are medium heavy fast action. That is better for what you asked to do. The Champion XPs are a good bit more sensitive though. The Sierra series were designed for anglers that prefer a rod blank that is a little slower, the taper is different. They rate the same but their action is a bit different. The blank bends a bit further down the blank. The Powell will fish more like a Champion as well. If you wish we can talk on the phone and I can explain things a little easier maybe. If so send me an e mail to fishnkamp@comcast.net. Also I know you had mentioned you have a reel already. If you decide to setup more than one rod I have a link to some Daiwa reels at very good prices right now. I can share that info there as well.

I really like my Powell rods, Irods and my Dobyns rods, but I fish with 12 baitcasters and they only fill out some needs for me. Some of my other rods include 1 Falcon Bucoo (trapcaster), 1 Abu Garcia Ike rod ( jerkbaits) and a Abu Veritas rod I use for punching. Out of your list I would consider a Powell Inferno first. Let me add some other rods to your list. Look at an Irod Genesis II rod. Take a good look at an IRG 704C, an IRG 744C and an IRG754C That Fred's Magic stick is amazing for lots of stuff. Now these rods are light in your hand and balance well. They also cost $149. I realize that is just above your stated budget, but in my opinion they are worth $20 more. Now if that is out of your budget they make a series called the Fiber series. They use the same blanks as the Genesis II rods, but they are outfitted with a slightly less expensive set of components. The Fred's Magic Stick (the 754C ) and the 704C are available in the Fiber series and these run around $110. One rod I fish that you definitely would not think of is sold by Dicks Sporting Goods only. It is a Quantum Escalade. They sell a couple, but the 7 foot MH is the one I am referring to. It is as sensitive as many of my other rods including the Falcon Bucoo and my Powell. The rod uses an IM8 rod blank and good components. It specs for baits weighing 1/4 to 1 1/2. It is a bit on the stiffer side in the middle and transitions into a nice tip. It would fish a frog or horny toad as well as a spinnerbait, buzzbaits or chatterbaits. I use mine for larger deeper running cranks as well as bigger texas rigs and carolina rigs. It would handle your jigs as well. This is not a fancy named rod, it is basically a house brand for Dicks. They advertise it as $99 but it is always on sale for $49. Might make a good combo with your CT reel for now and let you save up for a cranking setup sooner. I see some reviews complaining about tip breakage, but when you read their comments they try to use this rod for big salt water species. Ridiculous. I have caught bass up to 5 pounds on mine as well as some decent sized stripers too. Lastly I would look at a Daiwa Tatula XT which runs around $100. I would consider either the 7'3' MH which rates for 1/4 to 1 ounce or the 7'3 Heavy which rates for 1/2 to 1 1/2 ounces. The most important thing is I would stay away from any rod that had the Duckett name on it. Just my opinion, I had a friend that sold them and he would never touch one for himself. He ran all Dobyns Furys (7 of them actually) LOL

First the Veritas rods run a little heavier in power than the say so I would not worry about the rod here. As for a leader you could run P Line CXX moss green line in 8 pound test ( same diameter as your fluoro) it will have a breaking strength of around 16 pounds. That stuff is strong. See how a 6 foot leader of that works, if you need to drop down to 6 pound test.

I use 14 pound Stren Original mono on all my reels. It is not as cheap as some and not expensive as others, but what it is is a QUALITY line that I can rely on if I get bit by one of the Chesapeake Bays larger rockfish (stripers), a big blue catfish or one of our big snakeheads. Those last two can partially spool you quickly. SO I want a line I can trust on the back end of my braid or fluoro line. The Big game you have is fine also.

Do yourself a favor. The president of Powell rods is a great guy. His name is Keith I have had several phone conversations with him in the past. Give him a call, he wqas more than helpful for me.

First the reason the Powell is different is I own a Powell Max and they were replaced by a Powell Max 3D series. So yes the rods have different components, but basically the same blank. The Powell in my opinion run a bit more on target to their listed power, however as you read in the review that rod handle 1/4 ounce jigs with a trailer like a craw papy ( a little more compact trailer than say a Strike King Rage craw) or a grub, it also handles a 5/8 or 3/4 jig with a standard sized trailer. I throw a lot of texas rigs with a 7 inch power worm and a 3'/8 weight. Now for full disclosure I love the exposed blank like my rod has. I have not fished one of the new ones with what I call a skeleton reel seat. I can stop in my local shop and put a Daiwa on one and let you know how they feel. I have handled some of the Max3D rods in that shop and they feel light, well balanced and have nice actions to them. That is not fishing one though. A neat little piece of knowledge for you. Powell and Dobyns are two of my favorite rods and I found out Gary Dobyns once worked with Powell n some of the designs Makes sense. As for the powers. If you want to fish baits up to 3/4 of an ounce I would stay in the Powell 3 powers. If you are going to throw heavier baits then yes a 4 power is the way to go. On the Irod go with exactly what the lure weights say. The designers ( professional Bass Anglers) have worked tirelessly to get a rod to behave for their exact purposes. Their pros include guys like Marty Stone, Fred Roumbanis and Gabe Boulivar. I love my Gabes Rip Rap special for throwing squarebills and rattle traps.

I am a Dobyns fan and the Fury rods are nice. I am going to have to muddy up your well researched selection,sorry. Here are some other rods to seriously consider. First is a company called Irod. They make a series called Genesis II rods. If this is going to be your first higher quality rod consider an IRG744C or you could step down in length to an IRG704. Another super versatile rod in their collection is the IRG693C “Harold’s Lone Star Special” That is a workhorse of a rod. These rods run $150 but the 704C is available in the Fiber series. It runs $100. A Fiber rod uses the same blank as a Genesis II, just not as expensive components, no garbage just not as high end components. Powell makes a series called Max3D. I own an original Max series 683CEF MH. It is the most versatile rod in my 12 baitcaster arsenal. They usually run $150-ish but are on sale for $119. They also have a 723CEF mH in case you just have to go with a 7 footer. I usually fish jigs and texas rigs but it could easily handle top waters and a ton more. Take a look at the Tackletour review on that rod. http://www.tackletour.com/reviewpowell683cxfast.html My arsenal includes rods from all of these manufacturers and I like them a lot. Good luck deciding

My wife and I both use the same setup for all of our spinning gear. First I load 1/2 spool of Stren Original Clear Blue mono in 14 pound. Next I fill it the rest of the way with Berkley Original Fireline in 14 pound test. That stuff handles beautifully on a spinning reel and it is the same diameter as 6 pound test mono. If I am fishing really clear waters I add a 5 foot long leader made of either Fluorocarbon line or more often i will add a leader made of PLIne CXX in their green color and I will choose 8 pound test. That stuff breaks around 16 pounds.

Threadlock?

The Pflueger Supreme are just that as well

Gary Dobyns has said quite a few time the 734 is his most versatile rod. It is nice in the Fury and Sierra lines. I am a Dobyns fan, but I fish his higher lines. My friend Kris had 5 Fury rods in his arsenal. Qs for the MH vs Hvy confusion every rod builder rates their rods the way they want and there is no standard. As many have said a Dobyns fishes about a 1/2 power lighter than rated. Now the lure weights recommended is spot on. Take a look at a few other rods too.. Irod makes a quality rod especially in the Genesis II series. they have two rods I love for your needs. Check out a IRG693C “Harold’s Lone Star Special. This is the definition of all purpose rod. You could also go for a IRG744C. take a look on the Irod site. These cost $150.00 Another rod I love to use as an all a rounder is my Powell Max 683CEF MH. That has been replaced by the Powell Max3D series. Look at their closeout deals on both the 683 and 723 CEF MH These normally run $150 and are on sale for $119 Match any of these rods up with a Diawa Tatula CT in 6.3 or 7.3-1 and you are ready for catching some nice fish.

l can tell you from experience I have fished with a bunch of gear over my 40 years of addiction. I was quite happy with my green Shimano Curados and BPS reels till a friend put a Daiwa Exceler (predecessor of a Fuego CT). I have since sold off 9 of my 12 baitcasting reels and have replaced them with 1 Exceler, and the rest with a few Tatula and Tatula Type Rs in different ratios, and some Tatula CTs. I have cast a friend's Shimano Curado K and would definitely not agree that it is hands down a better reel, at least not to me. Both cast well, but we both agreed the Daiwa outcast the Shimano using a very easy smooth casting action. I am not saying he could not cast as far, but it took more effort. I am a big fan of the Daiwa Magforce Z brake system. Many times I have had members from this and 2 other boards come over my house and do some rod and reel casting instruction. Most that are not happy with their Daiwas when they get here are tickled when they leave. These reels need to be adjusted VERY different than any other reel I have ever cast. Once these reels are setup properly the MagForce Z brake system can work like it is designed. Part of it sorta works like the governor on a lawn mower. The other part you dial in on the outside. I rarely have to readjust anything no matter what lure weights I change to. As for their durability. I fish the Chesapeake Bay tributaries. These are tidal rivers with bass, big blue cats and big stripers, oh and I can't forget now big snakeheads. These reels hold up to all of that and my use in partly salty water. Watch these two videos. The first is a video showing how three different Daiwa brake systems work. The last one is a Magforce Z. The other video is from Brett Ehler and he is showing how to setup a Tatula SV TWS reel. All the Daiwas with Magforce Z brakes adjust the same. It is a set and forget reel in my experience. There are no side plates to remove and plastic pieces to push in or out like my old Curados or Chronarchs or dual brakes to mess with. These reels are that simple to setup. Now I still use my educated thumb a bit more than he did in that demonstration but these reels just work. As for the question about the year model vs another. Forget about it. You decide if you can afford a Tatula CT or not. If you can, then go with a new Tatula CT. For all around use choose a 6.3-1 reel. For a more dedicated combo to throw top water, chatterbaits, buzzbaits etc then a 7.3-1. I personally choose an 8-1 only for a dedicated combo to fish frogs and to flip, pitch or punch. If this will be your only rig than choose between a 6.3 and a 7.3-1 ratio. No mistakes here. If the $130 price range is out of your budget then a Fuego CT is the reel for you. No shame either you are not "giving up" much at all. The overall performance will be very similar. One more thing, let me address the nonsense on the T wing not passing a knot. I do use a leader attached to my braid often. I have no issues with my knots passing through the T wing system. First if I use a leader I do not fish with a leader longer than my rod. I usually fish a 5 foot leader or about as long as my wing span from one hand to the other with my arms spread out. This way my leader is plenty long enough, but not so long to get into my reel. Everyone of my reels has a mono backing and is attached to either fluorocarbon or braid using a uni to uni knot. If you are careful when tying that knot and be sure the wraps do not overlap each other then it will sail thru the T wing and micro guides. This has happened several times while hooked up with a big blue cats (my largest was 18 pounds) or one of the 30 inch stripers available here. I hope that helps explain these reels better without all the hype.

Many times we get similar post like yours and the op has not any idea what their gear does well. Congrats on putting a nice arsenal together and understanding what each of them do well. Now as for changes that really depends on the waters you fish and the techniques that would benefit you the most. The reels you own are top notch. Today's gear from $100 to $300 is so much better than gear was just 5 to 10 years ago. I personally have about 12 baitcasting and 4 spinning setups in my rod box most of the time. I use most of them a good portion of the year. I fish a very diverse bodies of water. I live next to the Upper Chesapeake Bay and fish for large mouth bass and stripers on its tidal rivers. Sometimes I am up on the Susqy River chasing smallies. Then I may travel to a PA lake,or a VA lake. Lastly I fish the Tennessee and Kentucky deep clear lakes for BIG smallies and walleye. I have been changing most of my baitcasters to Daiwa Tatula, Tatula Type Rs, and Tatula CTs. They are not the most expensive reels, but they fit my style and are workhorses. They of course got their technology from some of your higher priced models. You may benefit from upgrading a rod or two to a higher priced, more sensitive model for bottom contact baits, perhaps a G Loomis offering or top line St Croix, but I would not be in a hurry if what you have is working.

I see you are in Richmond, do you ever travel to Baltimore? If so I would be happy to help get you set up. I actually use a Berkley line station that makes it pretty easy.

Longer rods have their advantages. Try something like a 6'9 rod length. It is a very nice compromise. The bit shorter length gives me a little bit more ability to make casts under docks or over hanging trees. I have a Powell Max 683CEF MH I love. It is a super versatile rod. Dobyns, Irod and St Croix all make some nice rods in that size. You would have to probably order any of them or look for a dealer near you, but they are worth it.

Here is what I do. after fishing for over 40 years. I use a quality mono backing on all my reels, both spinning and baitcasters. For me that means I use Stren original clear blue mono in 14 pound test. I fill the reel 1/2 way up with the Stren. I fill the rest of the reel up with my main line IE fluorocarbon or braid. In your case you should be able to fill 2 reels with that spool of braid. Now remember, I have done this for a long time and can eyeball the required mono to make it work. If you are not sure you could go to a large grass field (like a school ball field) tie one end of the braid to something (like a backstop or fence). Walk out the braid. Double it over and cut it in half. Now, using a piece of tape, tape the braid to the spool. (make sure to run the line through the guides it will be easiest) Now wind the braid on till you have say 5 feet or so out the tip of the rod. To tie the mono to the braid use a knot like the double uni knot. I would practice it using two pieces of mono. Tie on the mono and continue to fill the reel until the line is 1/8 of an inch from the top of the spool. In most cases the spools flare out at about the right spot. Stay a bit below that till you get used to casting a baitcaster. Overfilling a reel causes lots of issues. Once you get that done just walk out your line and reverse it. This time be sure to tie the mono on tight so it can not slip on the arbor. Now lets look at my reason to always do this. First it will cost $15 for that 150 yards of braid. That is 10 cents a yard. Most baitcasters can hold almost that entire spool but will leave you with about 30 yards of wasted braid. I can buy a 330 yard spool of Stren mono in 14 pound test for $8.00. That is about 2.5 cents a yard. That means it costs less than $1.88 to half fill my reel. The mono stays good for years. If you have a major goof up all you would need to do is replace 75 yards of braid, that is $7.50 not $15. Remember 75 yards of braid is 3/4 of a football field. Can you cast that much line? Just my thoughts from my experience others may have different opinions.

Okay so whats up? What needs repaired or to be changed. Think about it this way, and it all depends on where and how you fish. Crankbaits (0 to 10 foot deep)-rattle trap baits- which rod would you use? Deep diving crankbaits (10 to 25 foot of water)- which rod would you use? Jerkbaits- top waters, poppers and walking baits- which one would you use? Spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, and buzzbaits-which one would you use? Jigs- you already said you use the Tatula 7'1 for heavy jigs. Can that rod pitch, flip or punch? What about the 1/4 to 3/4 standard weight jigs and texas rigs-which one would you use? Carolina rigs- which rod would you use? What rod would you throw paddle tail swimbaits like a Keitech or Reaction Innovations Skinny Dipper? Frogs you already have that set with your ISH frog rod. Your two spinning combos should handle the standard grubs, tubes, shakey heads, Ned rigs etc. I would probably have a 7 or 7'3 LT spinning rod and a 7-7'3" medium just to handle the ned rigs and drop shotting, but if your 2 rods work good for you do not make a change. A 6'6" to 6'9" spinning rod makes skipping docks a little easier but again that may make no difference to you. Some of these techniques you may not need or ever fish that is why your fishing style should decide things for you. I fished for lakes, rivers, ponds and streams and never needed a dedicated frog rod or a punching rod. Now that i fish the Chesapeake Bay I use those rods often.

Your research has led you a little astray. The 7 foot medium power is fine but you want a moderate action to fish any treble hook bait. This means the rod bends down further on the blank. The fast or extra fast actions are much more suited to single hook bottom baits like jigs and texas rigs. There are lots of good 6'6" to 7'6 inch medium moderate rods to choose from. Your budget of $250 is high enough to get a nice combo put together. By the way, most anglers go to baitcasters for cranks, rattle raps, and jerkbaits. However, my wife is a good example of an angler that CAN handle all types of gear including even fly rods, but prefers not to fish a baitcaster. I have spent a bunch of time over the years to find good rods that act the same as my baitcasters for certain techniques. First look at a Berkley Lightning Shock rod. They have a 6'6" medium moderate model that handles 1/8 to 3/4. They are a composite rod That rod handles crankbaits, rattle traps and even jerkbaits beautifully. It would handle a spinnerbait or something like a Pop R just fine as well. My wife owns and fishes a dozen rods, some of which cost over $300. That Berkley is her rod of choice for these techniques and it cost around $50. I use 2 of basically the same rods, but in their baitcasting models, as my backup rods for chasing stripers with traps. I often have 4 rods with different colors and weight traps tied on. If you want to spend a little more money, between $75 and say $150 then look at an Abu Garcia Veritas 7 foot medium moderate rod. They run heavier than advertised so do not worry about the rating only going up to 5/8. My friends regularly throw 3/4 and 1 ounce traps on them. That rod will cost around $99. Either of these rods will work well and what I would do then is consider a nice reel like a Pflueger Supreme or Supreme XT. That will run you between $100 and $150 depending on what you choose. We fill that out with some Berkley Original Fireline in 14 pound test (6 pound diameter) and these combos work great. There are other rods out there I am sure, but I know these two will work because I know they are in use for these techniques.

That probably means that they have an outer hull and the "floor" are not the same. Similar to some aluminum jons that have a flat aluminum floor. I am guessing but that would be my guess.

Tell us more about what you want to throw with this spinning rod. My wife fishes all spinning and it is tough to find just the right rods to match my baitcasting setups for some of the heavier or bigger baits. She fishes an Irod Genesis IRG713S “Fred’s Power Finesse Rod H” for her jigs and heavier tubes etc. She fishes a Dobyns Sierra SA 705SF for her big heavy deep water bottom baits as well as for fishing frogs. It has a great tip for that use. Take a look at 3 Dobyns rods and see what really fits your needs. The 703SF is a model found in most of Dobyns rod series. That is an all purpose rod but for lighter more finesse baits. The 704SF is a workhorse of a rod and finally the 705SF I have already spoken about. By the way I run the Champion XP DC 705C baitcasting rod as my frog rod and it too can handle the deep heavier carolina rigs, jigs etc. Lastly check out a Powell Max 3D 714 it is a 7'1 long rod and is rated as a medium heavy rod with an extra fast tip. I fish different rods from each of these companies and like them all.

Since you said you are in Philly I have an idea for you. This week the BASS Elite guys are here in Harford CO MD fishing the Bay. They launch on the Bush River froma local county park. If you come down to watch them that park is right next to Flying Point Marina. On their property is a VERY good reel repair place. It is called Reel Perfection. I have known the owner for decades. He has always done good work and a phone call to him would be advised. The address is 324 Flying Point Rd, Edgewood, MD 21040. phone (410) 676-0027. You could drop the reel off then go enjoy the BASS event which is to be held at Cal Ripken Stadium just off route 95. The Tatula reels are definitely workhorses and if he is in there I would have him do a complete cleaning and maybe upgrade a few bearings too. You would get a nice reel back. That is what I would do.

You could go to your local metal fab shop. They could easily copy the original pieces and then you could just prime and paint them. If yours is just surface rusty and not rusted too bad that they will brake then that same shop can sandblast yours and you just repaint and go forward. There is no way to tell if the Sundolphin parts would fit your boat correctly.

Is there a reason you do not want an aluminum jon boat? They are usually light and durable and last a long time. I have seen jon boats from the 70's still in use on the Susqy river.

You said you were running the stock Mercury aluminum prop. Most likely that was a 3 blade Black Max. They are okay but not really special in performance. I like the new Spitfire props from Mercury but I run a very good prop from Turning Point called a Hustler. They can be purchased from your local West Marine and on line as well. With them you order your prop and a hub kit that fits your motor. They are a 3 or 4 blade performance aluminum prop with vent holes and a bit of cupping to give an all around boost in speed and low speed handling. That is what Merc designed the Spitfire props to do as well. I think I would jump to one of those and then later have a good shop fix your original prop for a spare.What state do you live in?