fishnkamp

Now I use a 6 foot G Loomis SJR 721 (MLXF) which is a 1/16 to 5/16 and that rod handles light drop shots and neds great. My 722 (mxf) does all my grubs, tubes, shakey heads etc. So if you do not have a decent 6' to 7 foot medium that is the rod I would start out with. If you have one then I would add a mlf or mlxf.

Well I already had ths combo but the rig I use is a G Loomis IMX 6 SJR721. It was customized with a split grip set from Winn and I matched it with an Okuma RTX 30. I had a Pflueger President size 30 but the RTX is so light, I fell in love with it. The reel seat we chose was a Comfort grip I believe it was from American Tackle, I forget. Anyway that is a 6 foot ml fast spinning rod rated as 1/16 to 5/16 rod. I also did the same mod to my G Loomis SJR722, which is another 6 foot fast action spinning rod as well. It is rated for lures weighing 1/8 to 3/8. I much prefer the ML. The 722 has a Pflueger President 30 and both have Berkley Original Fireline braid in 14 pound test (6 pound mono equivalent). I run a 5 foot leader of P Line CXX 6 or 8 pound test. I also fill all my reels half way with Stren mono as backing. It cuts the cost of the braid. I get two reels filled with one filler spool. I think the ML would be the best way to go. By the way I chose those 6 foot rods years ago when my rod locker could only handle a 6 foot rod LOL. I really love the rods and if you need to skip a light bait under aq dock man they work great too.

My wife and I need more than one rod for throwing traps during the fall striper season so we both use our good crankbait rods as well as a few Berkley Lightning Shock Rods. For $50 the 6'6" Medium Mod is a pretty decent option. I am not saying it is as nice as my Irod Genesis II or Falcon Bucoo Trapmaster but it is not far off and it is 1/3 the price. I have the same Daiwa Tatula on them as I have on my more expensive rods.

Okay my list maybe a little different than others here but I would go with the following: Fury FR-705CB - shallow to mid diving crankbaits, lipless cranks, and wakebaits Gary's personal suggestion for a frog rod is a 735C, however I use a 705C and love it. Either rod will do a great job for frogs, some poppers, definitely buzzbaits ( at least my 705 Champion or the Sierra 705C) For some top waters, buzzbaits, bladed jigs, spinnerbaits you might want to consider a refurb (trade in Champion XP rod), it is the model here: # 440 Refurbished XP 683 C. Their regularly price is $229 and the "refurb" cost is $170. It is listed as "traded in with no repairs,great condition. If you want to go new instead then I would go with a model 703C or 733C but I would get Dobyns suggestion here. Finally I would have a 734C in my arsenal for everything else.

The picture is not really that accurate. The outside edge is about two inches outside the tire and their is about 3 inches room above the tire. That is not a typical spring axle but rather a torsion axle. It rides awesome,but thanks for your observation. As for overloaded the trailer is rated almost 600 pounds heavier than the original trailer from the factory.

Well for me they offer a winch that will survive the salty tidal environment I fish in. This may not sound sexy but they are a quality made workhorse of a winch. They just do a great job and look good too. The handle has several mounting holes to give you the option of choosing what fits and how much leverage you need. Also the handle can be mounted on either side, sometimes that matters. Most factory trailers do not come with heavy duty enough winches or trailer dolly wheels in my opinion. On my new trailer I upgraded both. I also chose both sideboards (as the fenders had no carpet) and I added lighted trailer loading posts. I launch at night or early AM often and backing the trailer down the ramp will be much easier.

My wife owns 2 Dobyns Sierra rods and I own several Dobyns Champion XP series rods. They are all terrific and as I stated I own a Falcon Bucoo Micro Trapcaster rod. The are all good rods or I would not still fish them. I have a friend that owns 5 Dobyns Fury rods including a 705CB and he loves all of them. There will be no mistake in choosing either one. As for the Daiwa the SV TWS is a great reel and so is the standard Tatula CT. It is a toss up.

The only issue with the entire Veritas line has been some of the guides can pop out. I have a friend that fishes for big bass, stripers, and often catches big snakeheads on the Potomac River. He loves the 7 foot Medium mod Veritas rods for throwing rattle trap type bait s as well as some top waters. He has had a few issues but likes the blanks he has had the guides replaced on a few. The blanks are worth it alone.

Nope. but you might like the Fuego CT. It is a non TWS reel but performs a lot like a Tatula CT. It is built on the CT body. To me it feels a lot like my Exceler.

Sorry I left an unwanted space between the name and the "@" sign and did not catch it. I guess I was typing quicker than I was editing for mistakes. It is corrected now. Please try again

Well first I see you just joined the group on Bass Resources in July. Welcome to the board. Now lets get specific and please answer a couple of questions. You stated you were looking at getting 4 technique specific rods. You never mentioned what techniques matter most to your style of fishing, as well as your specific waters you fish. Let me explain a little. i have fished for over 40 years now. For the first 36 years I have never fished in heavy vegetation where a dedicated frog rod would be worth owning. Now on occasion I fished a frog but on small streams, smalle ponds, mid size fresh water rivers and deep clear reservoirs I just never needed one. I now fish the tidal rivers here on the Chesapeake Bay. Now my dedicated frog rod gets a work out. The Upper Bay and the Potomac River have plenty of aquatic vegetation. So first do you need an all purpose spinning rod. That would be a model 703SF in a Fury or Sierra. Here is the difference between the two series. The Fury rods are a great deal and fish very similar in power and action to the Champion series. The Sierra series has better components and a bit slower action in their blanks. My wife fishes with two really nice Sierra rods. They are, in my opinion, more sensitive than the Fury rods. My friend fishes 5 Fury rods. There is also a few models of rods available in the Sierra series not in the Fury line. The all purpose casting rod is a 734C. I own a boat that can only fit 7 foot rods so my frog rod is a Champ XP 705C. That rod is super for frogs ,jigs, plastics etc. Normally the 735C is the prefered frog rod, as well as lots of other stuff. There is no good choice for cranks in the Sierra line, so you go Fury 705CB or Champion series. It is funny since the blanks run a tad slower in actions. Anyway what techniques do you wish to cover? We can help you more once we know that.

Do not stick with Ugly STicks, they work but if you ever touch another rod you will be in trouble LOl. Remember not all rod companies follow the same standards on ratings. The trap caster is a model within the Falcon Buccoo series of rods ( both the SR and Micro guide series rods) I have a Bucoo Micro series Trapcaster. It is rated as a 7 foot Medium Heavy power, moderate fast flex rating. these are very good for rattle traps, cranks any bait with a treble hook) as well as a bigger heavier spinnerbait or buzzbait. They handle baits up to 3/4 of an ounce very well. I am sure the SR will be fine. I am a true proponent of the Daiwa reels and fish a bunch of original Tatula, Tatula Type Rs and Tatula CTs. Everyone has gone nuts over the Tatula SV TWS. It is a great reel. It was designed to be the best reel in the Tatula family of reels for throwing light baits and skipping baits. The reel uses a different set of brake components and a SV spool in order to accomplish this. In my opinion you might find the SV is a little better with the unweighted plastic and the Tatula CT is a bit better at getting distance with the treble baits. My Bucoo Trapcaster has a Daiwa Tatula CT on it and it performs extremely well. Either way it is a great combo.

I have two reels I have been using since the nineties and their magnets are fine.

Lets start with a few questions first. Think about your current gear. What does each rod do well. My suggestions are based on what you have said about each rod so far. I am not holding them in my hand and we all know what one brand of rod calls a fast action can be very different than another's. You said you like the Falcon HD 7' MH with the 6.6-1 on it. I would leave that alone rigged as it is. I would even leave the 40 pound braid. I would use this setup for bottom contact baits, jigs with plastic trailers, all of your 1/4 ounce to 3/4 ounce plastics and baits like chatterbaits and heavier spinnerbaits (3/8 and larger). I would consider matching the 6'6 medium power fast action for lighter baits and for some top water baits like Pop Rs and even some frogs like the Mr Ribbitt ( more of a toad) This too is a versatile combo. If you send me an email at fishnkamp@comcast.net I can direct you to a place you could order a Daiwa Fuego for around $60 shipped. You also could go with a Daiwa Tatula CT for $80 shipped. I would choose a 7.3-1. Now if you want a rod to fish frogs and heavier jigs ( up to 1 ounce) then I would match it up with your 8.1-1 reel and 65 pound braid. What is your definition of "reasonable priced"? If you can spend $110 then I would strongly consider a rod like an Irod Fiber 7'5 Heavy, it is called the Fred's Magic Stick. If your budget can jump to say $160 then I would jump up o the same model in the Genesis II series. An IRG 754C "Fred's Magic Stick" is a great rod frogs, toads. flipping, big worms and jigs. If your budget can not go that high then you may find a deal on an Abu Garcia 7'3 MH Veritas. Their lure ratings are spot on, however they under rate their rods actions. Their Medium heavy is really a heavy in most other companies rods. As for a rod for jerkbaits, rattle traps, cranks etc I again have to ask your budget. If your budget is less than $100 for the rod consider a 6'6" medium power moderate action Berkley Lightning Shock Rod. They sell for around $50. Match it up with a 6.6-1 reel also. This could have copoly line or mono. If your budget is higher I love my Abu Garcia Ike delay series 6'4 jerkbait rod for all kinds of treble hook baits. I also use two of the Lightning Shock rods for rattle traps and jerkbaits for stripers. In fall striper season I need 4 rods to throw different trap type baits. The Ike rod runs around $130. Let me know how well I did and what your thought are after reading this response. Lets start with a few questions first. Think about your current gear. What dooes each rod do well. My suggestions are based on what you have said about each rod so far. I am not holding them in my hand and we all know what one brand of rod calls a fast action can be very different than anothers. You said you like the Falcon HD 7' MH with the 6.6-1 on it. I would leave that alone rigged as it is. I would even leave the 40 pound braid. I would use this setup for bottom contact baits, jigs with plastic trailers, all of your 1/4 ounce to 3/4 ounce plastics and baits like chatterbaits and heavier spinnerbaits (3/8 and larger). I would consider matching the 6'6 medium power fast action for lighter baits and for some top water baits like Pop Rs and even some frogs like the Mr Ribbitt ( more of a toad) This too is a versatile combo. If you send me an email at fishnkamp @comcast.net I can direct you to a place you could order a Daiwa Fuego for around $60 shipped. You also could go with a Daiwa Tatula CT for $80 shipped. I would choose a 7.3-1. Now if you want a rod to fish frogs and heavier jigs ( up to 1 ounce) then I would match it up with your 8.1-1 reel and 65 pound braid. What is your definition of "reasonable priced"? If you can spend $110 then I would strongly consider a rod like an Irod Fiber 7'5 Heavy, it is called the Fred's Magic Stick. If your budget can jump to say $160 then I would jump up o the same model in the Genesis II series. An IRG 754C "Fred's Magic Stick" is a great rod frogs, toads. flipping, big worms and jigs. If your budget can not go that high then you may find a deal on an Abu Garcia 7'3 MH Veritas. Their lure ratings are spot on, however they under rate their rods actions. Their Medium heavy is really a heavy in most other companies rods. As for a rod for jerkbaits, rattle traps, cranks etc I again have to ask your budget. If your budget is less than $100 for the rod consider a 6'6" medium power moderate action Berkley Lightning Shock Rod. They sell for around $50. Match it up with a 6.6-1 reel also. This could have copoly line or mono. If your budget is higher I love my Abu Garcia Ike delay series 6'4 jerkbait rod for all kinds of treble hook baits. I also use two of the Lightning Shock rods for rattle traps and jerkbaits for stripers. In fall striper season I need 4 rods to throw different trap type baits. The Ike rod runs around $130. Let me know how well I did and what your thought are after reading this response. By the way welcome to Bass Resources. I just realized you are a new member. Welcome and if I can help any in the future pm me. I sorta lurk around here a lot. If you read any of my posts I am getting real old LOL! I have been fishing over 40 years, so I have played with lots of stuff.

I use a Fulton F2 on my new trailer as well.

Here is my two cents. As many know from my previous posts I had a friend lend me a Daiwa several years ago and I sold off most of my 12 baitcasters in favor of Daiwa Exceler,( predecessor to the Fuego CT) Tatula, Tatula Type Rs and Tatula CTs reels. The reels I had included some Curados, Chronarchs. They were good reels, but after fishing the Daiwas I preferred the Tatulas. I have tested some friends of mine's Shimano MGL and new Curado Ks. I would not trade one of my Daiwas for any of them at all. Everyone has fixated on the Tatula SV as the only Daiwa to consider. Now the Tatula SV is a specialized version of the Tatula CT family. It has a special SV spool and a different set of flyweights than a normal Tatula CT. It carries less line as well, but its claim to fame is its ability to skip and handle light lures. I am not saying it can't handle heavier lures, but it designed to do those tasks best. If I was buying my first all purpose reel or a reel that will do other duties most of the time, then the Tatula CT or a Daiwa Fuego in a 6.3-1 or 7.3-1 would be my best choice. Proper adjustments are important to every reel but these Daiwa reels adjust very easily BUT not the same as any other reel out there. I have been using baitcasters for over 40 years so I have used a bunch of different ones. I have taught a dozen or so other anglers how to adjust the Diawas as well as their own reels from several fishing boards. I will once again post these two videos. The first explains how the Daiwa MagForce breaks work and the second one shows Brett Ehler explaining how to properly set up a Tatula SV reel. All the entire Tatula family of reels and the Fuego CT reels adjust exactly the same. I almost never change my exterior magnetic dial even if I change baits of different weights. Never adjust the reel for a "slow steady falling bait " like others. It will disappoint you for sure. I hope that explains things a little bit more accurately. I am a homer and I admit it, but these reels are workhorses and easy to use. One thing I will say for best distance I find these reels respond best to a nice steady cast not a hard jerky casting stroke. Good luck making your decision, there really not many bad reels out there in the top brands.

Actually the Fury and Champion XP series rods are their faster action rods. The Sierra series would be a better all around rod since the blanks are a tad slower in taper. You need the heavier rod to handle the weight and wind resistance of the baits you are intending to fish. They run $179 so a little over budget but worth it. I would call Dobyns and get their opinion.

The Tatula SV TWS is more of a specialty reel. It may not cast as far as some others in the Tatula family simply because it is designed with the SV spool and a heavier brake set up. This is why they suggest it is better for skipping bait around docks and cover. Think of it this way. A mechanic has a set of sockets, wrenches, screw drivers etc in his tool box. Each performs a specific task best. Yes you can "hammer" something with the side of the wrench but a hammer does it more efficiently. When you are looking for longest distance the original Tatula reels ( the Tatula & Tatula Type Rs as well as the Tatula CT and CT Type Rs are better suited for that operation. For one thing it has a more standard break weight system and a spool that holds more line. Adjusted correctly it will cast as well as my friend's Shimano Chronarch MGL and outcast his two Curado Ks. That was with him casting them. Right tool for the right job. If I want to do a lot of under hand casting around docks or pitching with light lures around cover the SV TWS would be my choice.

Personally I would not charge that battery without adding just enough water to be even with the top of the plates. Charging it more can only damage it further. I never ever leave a battery on charge once it is charged. I run 3 very expensive Cabelas group 30 AGM batteries. I charge he batteries up. I use the boat and upon returning home recharge the batteries. I park my boat until it is to be used again. The batteries in my boat are on their 8th year. I expect to need new ones but have not needed them yet. I use a Bass Pro 10 amp per bank charger designed for charging AGM batteries.

Before I ordered anything I would speak to the factory. Maybe yours are rated for 40# but are defective Maybe the got a bad batch. They would know if they have ever received this complaint and what the best correction is. Just my lifetime of mechanics experience.

Living down here on the Chesapeake Bay and fishing the rivers here that Fish Hawk 1850 would be a great replacement for my current Lowe Stinger 170. Even the Fish Hawk 1750 would be an improvement.

Well the CMV is a deeper V boat and would run better on the Flats and your NY waters. It will handle larger waters better. The CX 17 is more like most mod V hulls. Let me be honest. Neither of these boats are setup well to fish the Susqy River. I lived and fished that river for 5 years. Now let me clarify something. If you intend to launch above the Conowingo Dam or above the fiber dam in Sunbury then those boats will work and the nod goes to the CX-17. However if you are thinking of fishing the main river around the Harrisburg Airport, Duncannon, basically up and down the entire main river then none of these boats will work well. To do that we used one of two type of boats. Many many guys fished that river in an open jon boat with a 9.9 or 15 HP outboard and a custom made device that surrounded the entire prop area to avoid rock damage. I owned a 15 foot tiller boat just like that. Today the more popular way is to run a outboard powered jet unit and a tunnel hull with a front "center console". Lets talk about you HP restricted lakes. Which ones are you talking about? I used to fish Lake Marburg (Codorus State Park). It has a 20 HP max. I will post a pic of my Lowe boat I specifically setup to run that lake. Many of your lakes up there are 20 HP lakes. My boat is similar to the CX 17. I installed a CMC PT 35 trim tilt plate and a 20 hp Merc 2 stroke. I did about 18 mph. I enjoyed that setup till I moved and just replaced the motor and plate with a 2 stroke 75 Hp used Merc. I am familiar with the restrictions on Cowanesque Lake( part open hp,part 6 mph, part electric only). Have they made any changes to the restrictions on Blue Marsh Lake down in Reading? Let me make a suggestion before you make a big financial mistake. Spend a day out with a guide that runs a jet boat. The day will be a lot of fun, a real eye opener as to how you boat and how you fish that river successfully. If after that day out on the water you feel you can run the river in a jet boat go look into them. If however you do not feel comfortable running the river in one, then go look at the jon with a 9.9 for safety reasons. Here is a pic of my Marburg rig and it with its new used 75. Here is a typical jet boat setup http://www.lakesidemarinepa.com/index.php?view=inventory&viewid=768 Here is a G3 brand Jon boat with a tunnel hull designed to be run with a jet. http://www.g3boats.com/gator-tough-16-ccj-dlx Here is a good video of running on the river. .

Well I am not sure too many want to wait till next 4th of July. LOL The prices I quoted are about as good as I have seen and will be available for a little while from my source. Any glad you found a great deal for a great reel. As for people "talking about getting them in the $40s" I doubt it was real. This is a reel everyone regularly sells for $99.

Its your lucky day. I have a connection where you can get a Daiwa Tatula CT or Fuego CT deeply discounted. You could get a Fuego CT 8-1 reel shipped for $60. You can get a Tatula CT for just $20 bucks more. Now with your budget you can afford a really nice rod. Consider an Irod Genesis II IRG 754C. That is called a Fred's Magic Stick. I know a few members on another boasrd who fish them and love them for jigs, frogs etc. To me a goos setup for these techniques requires both a quality reel and a quality rod. If interested send me an email at fishnkamp@comcast,net and I will explain how to get that reel at that discount.

ProCraft always made a solid boat. Those engines were bullet proof almost. Having said that I would get your friend to take you out in it. See how it operates. There is some things to expect or be aware of. Look the trailer over good for rust and cracks while the boat is off it. I do not care if the bunks need new carpet but if you purchase it and the trailer cracks you need to spend between $1500 and $2000 to replace it. Expect the hubs will need new bearings and seals to be safe. Have a mechanic check out the engine including a lower unit service. Make sure they pull the prop and check for fishing line and the condition of the seal. This will cost a few hundred dollars but replacing the engine is much more. If you decide to purchase it replace all the fuel lines. These new ethanol fuels destroy the old lines from the inside out. Replace any fuel filters too. If all that works out I would budget money to replace every battery in use. More than likely a boat that size had either 2 or 3 12 volt deep cycle batteries. Do not skimp here. The starting battery can be a dual purpose group 27,30 or 31 size batteries. I prefer AGM designed ones. The one or two used for the trolling motor should be the same size and again I prefer the AGMs but lead acids is okay. You may end up with a great first boat but be aware and look before leaping. If you can have someone else that owns a bass boat go with you to check out what you might miss. Good Luck and keep us up with how it goes.