fishnkamp

Hey BigAngus752 go check out DaleHollowDave on facebook. That is the guy we intend to fish with in Tn this time. Some of those bigger musky and walleyes are caught right now, but we won't hit it till April. That is spring break for the college.

One other bait to try is a chatterbait in like 1/4 to 3/8 with a swimbait body like the Keitech or Reaction Innovation Skinny Dipper. These work really well.

When I fished the river I had one rod rigged with the bottom bouncing lures one with a crank and usually one spinning rod to throw the light Pop Rs. I would float a section of the river and the topwater was used when I stopped above a rock ledge and fish the face where the current was slower. It would also get used at the"shoot" where the fast water went through the rock ledge and the backwash just below the shoot meet. Some of my biggest bass came from places like that. Also if you fish around a grass bed the current is just a bit slower just above and below the grass bed. I loved dropping an anchor and getting out to wade these type of fishing opportunities. Some of my favorite sections to fish were near Selinsgrove, Liverpool, and Middletown. The ledges near the Airport used to produce a lot of fish.

Welcome to BR. You will get plenty of good advice here, and you already have. I sent you a pm with some in detail info about fishing here in MD. I fish tidal bass, freshwater reservoirs and streams/rivers here in MD. During my tidal fishing I fish all of my rods and reels and just flush them occasionally. The Potomac, Upper Bay and rivers like Back River, Middle River, the Choptank, etc are not really full salty like an ocean. I use a lot of Diawa & Bass Pro baitcasters, and Pflueger spinning reels without any issues. I target bass and stripers, but often catch a lot of big blue cats and perch. If you are interested in talking MD fishing opportunities you are welcome to contact me and we can spend some time on the phone or in person.

I did forget one more favorite toy and that was the Pop R. Another good crank is definitely the Bandit 100s

First thing please answer a few simple questions. What state do you live in and tell us what type of water is available for you. Do you want to fish small rivers, ponds, small to mid sized lakes or big lakes? slonezp is correct, a deeper Vee boat may be best for you from a safety point of view, especially if you are going to fish bigger and faster water. He is a great source of knowledge on the Lund boats. The downside to a Lund is finding one in your budget, however there are other good deep v boats that may be available cheaper, perhaps a good Alumacraft, Lowe, G3 etc even an old Grumman deep V as my friend Kris found a few years ago. Now if you want to fish slower moving water ( read safer to handle) such as small to mid sized lakes, slower running rivers ponds, reservoirs etc, than my suggestion is to look for a 17to 18 foot aluminum bass boat. These will be easier to find in your price range. I would stay away from fiberglass as your first real boat. A 17 foot aluminum with a 40 to 75 is an ideal first boat. These boats will be called a "mod V" boat and the 17 to 19 foot boats will have more beam and stability. Obviously Tracker is the most recognized brand, but Lowe, Alumacraft, G3, and many other manufacturers make these boats. Look for boats like these from Craigslist. https://allentown.craigslist.org/boa/d/bass-boat/6429356149.html https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/boa/d/bass-tracker-tx17-tournament/6421940849.html https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/boa/d/power-boat-with-trailer/6421936258.html My wife and I have fished out of tiny little 12 foot jon boats on reservoirs, several 15 and 17 foot aluminum mod v aluminum bass boats and several fiberglass rockets ships. I have caught as many fish out of our 4 different aluminum bass boats as I have out of the fancy fiberglass, however the maintenance on the fiberglass is much more involved. Here is what we currently have. It is a 17 1/2 foot Lowe bass boat. It is now powered by a 75 hp Mercury outboard. It runs in the high 30's to low 40's, is quite stable and we have fished on reservoirs, big 60 mile long lakes and fast moving tidal rivers including the Chesapeake Bay.

I lived in New Buffalo for 5 years and fished mostly from Selinsgrove to Front Royal. I fished a lot of twintail grubs ( think beetle spins), 3 to 5 inch grubs and my favorite has always been the Kalin Lunker grubs. Use some 1/8 to 3/8 ounce heads. For hard baits I used to fish Tiny Torpedoes, and regular sized torpedos, my favorite crankbait was a Rebel Humpy and the Baby 1 minus. Also throw the 3 or 5 inch minnow baits like a Rapala original floater/divers. Both Norman and Berkley make some reasonably priced shallow divers as well. The flukes and Bass Assasins were just coming out back then, but today I would seriously fish baits like a Reaction Innovations Skinny Dipper and regular dipper on belly weighted swimbait hooks and the fish head style swimbait jigheads like Picasso makes. i would throw them on 1/8, and 1/4 ounce weights. By the way if you throw the grubs, try using some bass Pro Shops. All of these exist in my tackle box.

Well I guess I picked a good time to get back on here. Thanks new2BC4bass for remembering my setup. First the best way to save money using braid is this. Go to Walmart and purchase a 330 yard spool of good old Stren original monofilament. It costs $6.99 per spool, or $ 0.021 per yard of line. Since most baitcaster hold about 150 yards of line then fill the reel with about 75 yards of mono backing. This gives you several advantages. The braid will not spin on the spool, if you tie the mono on with a good knot. Secondly the mono will give a good surface to lay the braid on (be sure to spool the mono on tightly to avoid the braid from digging in) Now go buy a spool of your favorite braid. I will use the Power Pro 30 pound test in a 150 yard spool on Walmart's website for an example. It is listed on their website for $12.84 for the 150 yards. That is $0.085 per yard. If you spool 75 yards on your reel you will spend a total of $6.38 for the braid and $1.58 for the mono. Now I doubt you can cast farther than 75 yards so you will never need more braid on your reel than the 75 yards. I have had a couple of big blue cats and stripers pull enough line that the line to backing knot easily slipped out my guides but they would never break the mono ( this is the exact reason I choose 14 pound Stren mono). I have total confidence in this setup. Now lets say you have a total disaster and have to cut out a BAD backlash. You only waste 75 yards of braid and some mono. Respool and go fish. Now for my favorite braid on a spinning reel. I have 6 spinning reels for my self and my wife and all are spooled up with the same mono in 14 pound test ( drop to 8 pound if you are fishing really light setups) Then fill it with Berkley Original FireLine in 14 pound test (it is equal to 6 pound test mono in diameter). I often add a 5 foot Halo or copoly leader,

Hello from Maryland. I am sorry I had to do some upgrades to the computer and Windows 10 caused a bunch of issues. Since the last time on here I was put on medical retirement. Been a lot to get settled, but I actually went back to college after 35 years in the work force. Back then I studied computer programming and business administration. We did the programming using programs like DOS, BASIC, and Fortran. That involved "punch cards" LOL. I told the administrations advisor she might have to pull out the old microfiche and we both started laughing. She said she had not thought about that for at least 2 decades, and that if something in the microfiche was missing her coworkers would battle to see who had to go pull the actual paper records the teachers filled out. Those were located in huge filing cabinets. LOL! Now I walk in class and sit in front of a 22 inch all in one. Things have changed. Anyway I have another foot surgery scheduled for January and hopefully it will be my last in a series. If so, my wife and I will be planning a trip to Tennessee in spring. This will be a trolling trip for musky, walleye and smallies. I will also be looking for land to retire on in the future. Hi Glenn, Thanks, the issue was on my end not yours. It is good to be back around.

Do a little research. Kayak fishing is getting very popular and some fishing guides are now specializing in it. You may find a guide that offers kayak trips and if so they supply the fishing kayaks. Here in MD we have several and they not only provide the kayak but rent and sell them. You may or may not love their choice but a day with them will give you a chance to try out a "fishing kayak" and also see how he likes to set up his storeage and rig his crafts. All very valuable info. Also check with some kayak retailers and see if they will or do have some on the water test days. I know our local REI has on water demos periodically.

The thing I would do is go look at it and then if you are interested in it seriously ask to take it to the water. Go get a ride in it.. That will tell you ho the thing rides, its stability and how well the motor runs. If you like what you see go for it. I have seen others do similar mods and they seemed to work out. This would not be a boat I would stand on a casting deck and flip or pitch but I have owned several boats I sat and fished from.

drmevo If you notice there are a lot of threads where I have linked into those videos. These reels really do not play like any other reels. I know I say it a lot but it is really true. Once they have the right side play the "automatic" activity of the inductor movement takes over and allows much greater success with much less effort. If they are not adjusted that way we overpower the cast and well sometimes even the ospreys are jealous!!!

I fish a lot of Daiwas. My frog rod has an original ( larger size) Tatula Type R. I went with the Type R because I wanted a 8-1 left handed reel. I also fish with 12 baitcasters so I can specialize. It sounds like you are setting up one reel to handle multiple things. The Tatula CT is what I would suggest you go with and since you want to fish frogs, flipping or pitching and swim jigs I would go for a Tatula CT in 7.3-1 left or right hand retrieve. That choice is personal preference. The 7.3-1 will be fast enough to fish the frogs and pitch, with but still allow you enough control with the swim jigs. I do not believe the Tatula CT Type R will give you much for the extra money. A type R has a couple of corrosion resistant bearings replacing the standard ones, a drag star that is made of a fancier material and has a tiny bit lighter spool. It also has more red on it! LOL I own Daiwa Exceler reels, Tatula Type R reels and Daiwa Tatula CT reels and they all perform about the same. You can save a few bucks and get a standard Tatula CT or spend about $40 more and get a CT Type R. I will say I am pleased with all of mine.

Several things help. Install bunk boards but do not use carpeted bunks. Install the new style bunk board materials. I have the white stuff Bass Pro sold, it covers the entire bunk using two pieces on e each bunk. I think it is made of a teflon type plastic material. I used it on my electric only rig and when it gets wet itis like ice. Also install a walking plank on the trailer. Mine was made of aluminum with the black non slip tread material. It went from just behind the vertical capstan to just about where the trailer Ys out. I ran the boat on as far as possible and then "walked the plank" to the truck and dry land. The longer side boards help because you can put the trailer in deeper and the boat will still stay lined up correctly even though the back of the boat is not sitting on the boards as much. If you need pictures I can send a few to you of that boat and trailer setup.

There is several things to think about. Is this a "new to you" used boat? Has this boat ever gotten up on plane or did something in its performance change? If this is a boat that you have no idea how it ran before or something has changed then I am going to suggest checking some quick easy stuff first. Have you checked to see you are getting full throttle. Take the engine cover off and get someone to help you. Have them work your throttle and see if you are getting full throttle. The cable should mover the linkage till it hits the stops. Old throttle cables can easily stretch out and not work. If this is the problem the solution is new cables. Also if it has a hot foot this is a common problem and that often takes just a readjustment. If your boat is reaching full throttle the next thing I would do is to replace spark plugs, fuel filters, start with dumping your fuel and getting fresh fuel, and replace the fuel lines. Always add a fuel treatment like Star Tron. These are standard things to do on an older motor. Fuel lines have also been a big problem due to their reacting to the new ethanol fuels. The internal linings of the lines can deteriorate and clog or balloon up and restrict fuel flow. If these have not been changed I would just replace them all with the new Ethanol approved lines. They are available in bulk from your local boat dealer. A compression test on all cylinders is warranted too. If you handle all of these items then test run your boat. Be careful because if this work fixes the problem than the smaller pitch prop may cause your engine to try and over rev. Pay attention to your tach and also jot down the top rpm and speed to see where you are after these things are done. These steps won't fix any electrical issues you may be having on the engine like a failed coil pack, but if you fix the list I gave you and there is a still an issue than your mechanic will have less to test saving you money.

I ran an all electric boat for reservoir fishing and on that boat were 5 deep cycles. One supplied a 12 volt trolling motor on the front deck. Then there were 4 more batteries feeding two transom mount 12 volt trolling motors. Each transom mount motor was a Minn Kota 55 pound thrust unit and it was fed by two batteries hooked up together. I use a total of 3 of these chargers and they did a terrific job. Wal Mart sells them for $45. All you need is one and use it every time you return home from fishing. Your batteries will last a long time. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-SpeedCharge-15-Amp-Automotive-and-Marine-Battery-Charger/13005745

Fell Free and on other topics as well. What were you thinking of spooling it with?

Bass Pro also has an answer tha will not scratch a blank and I roll them up over the handle and rod seat till they sit just in front of the reel seat but on the side so nothing gets in the way. http://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-xps-hook-holders

What baits did you want to fish with. That would help me make a suggestion of which model will work well for you.

J.C. make sure you watch these two videos. The first one will explain how Mag Force Z brakes work much better than I can. The second explains how to properly adjust it. I understand Bret is actually talking about the special version of a Tatul aCT called a SV TWS. All of the Tatulas adjust the same way to perform to their potential. It is VERY different than any other baitcasting reel just because of the Mag Force Z brake system. Since we both have Tatula CTs and not the Tatula SV TWS reels you will have to use a touch of thumb to controll your cast, but you will be pleasantly surprised how well the reel will work for yyou

Yes definitely. These rods fish really nice. My wife and I own some Sierras and some Champions. The Sierra series uses a slightly slower graphite compared to their Fury and Champion series brethren. I find that if I read the lures suggested and the weight the rods list for then shoot for lure a bit below the top rate I am fine. For example if you are looking for a bottom contact rod to fish standard jigs and texas rigs that weigh 1/4 plus a trailer all the way to 3/4 plus a trailer I would go for the 734, but I consider it more of a slightly heavy medium heavy, not like a standard heavy. I hope that makes sense. That is also an awesome rod. My wife does not like baitcasters. SHe will handle any fly rod or spinning but hates baitcasters. This has made it tough for me to find just the right jig rod and frog rod. I fish a Dobyns Champion Xp DC 705C as a frog rod. She now fishes a Sierra SA 705C and it that spinning rod is perfect for throwing the frogs, Strike King Popping Perch and other baits that require a soft tip and a ton of backbone. If you want more info on the Sierras you are welcome to call out and talk to Gary Dobyns or his son Kieth. They enjoy helping their customers decide which rod fits their needs. If you would like more info on Gary"s rods, I have another way to get those questions answered to. Just email me at fishnkamp@comcast.net.

That is simple for me. If I was setting up one all purpose rod it would have a Daiwa Tatula CT in the 7.3-1 ratio. Since you said topwater, and bottom bouncing baits as well as some frogs then the 7,3-1 is fine. If you included cranks ( which you did not ) then I would do the same reel but in the 6.3-1 rstio.

Everyone has their preference of course. In my opinion ( and it is only my opinion from fishing their rods) but I like the rod blank better on the Dobyns Fury rods. I would suggest a 705CB for your cranks. If you do not go this way then take a serious look at an Irod Genesis II model 703CC. It is called a Gabes Riprap special. I used to fish with a bunch of ST Croix rods till I found Dobyns, Powell and Irod rods. I have replaced all of my ST Croix with rods from those companies. I find them just more sensitive and I like the actions better. MY main rod for cranks, traps, squarebills etc is the Irod model IRG 703CC. My friend Kris has most of his arsenal made up of Fury rod, so I am in no way saying one is better, I like the way each fishes. As for a general purpose MH Fast I would look at a Fury FR734C. Another good choice would be a Powell Max 3D either a model 683CEF or a model Max 3D 723CEF. I fish a Max 683 CEF ( pre 3D version) and love love love it. Among all of my 12 baitcasters that rod is my most versatile rod. Take a look at the Tackletour review of this rod. I have spoken with the owner of Powell and he assures me if I purchased a Max 3D version I would not see any difference between the Max and the Max 3 D in performance. They upgraded the blank material a little and the components some. The rode would fish equally well. Here is the rod review to read. http://www.tackletour.com/reviewpowell683cxfast.html Irod offers a nice option here as well. Take a look at a IRG 704C or IRG 744C.

JC I own a bunch of original Tatula Type Rs and 2 CTs. I chose most of the Type Rs over the standard Tatulas ( CT were not available yet) because they had 2 corrosion resistant bearings instead of one and they offered an 8-1 in a left handed reel. I caught them on sale so I paid the little extra. I also fish tidal water so I thought perhaps the corrosion resistant bearings would be an advantage. I can assure you they casts no further than any of my other Daiwas. The CTs are no different. The CT vs the CT type R. With an R you get a little more colorful reel, 2 corrosion resistant bearings + 5 other bearings plus 1 roller bearing. In a CT you get 7 plus 1 RB. You also get the fancier looking drag star too. In the CT Type R they offered a 6.3, 7.3 and an 8-1 in both left and right hand reels. In the CT they offer a 6.3-1 and 7.3-1 in both left hand and right hand reels. They also offer a right hand reel in both 5.5 -1 and 8-1. I doubt I would decide on looks, however if the reel I wanted was an 8-1 leftie my decision would be an easy one. If you decide on a standard CT you will not be disappointed, My two CTs are 6.3-1. Half of my Daiwa reels are lefties and half are righties. I hope that helps explains a little about the difference between them.

That longer rod will help you gain casting distance and control the line netter during both the hookset and fighting the fish. You aill get used to it quickly. 15 pound mono is fine but you might consider 30 pound braid also. I use a lot of braid and leader combos and they fish very well.