fishnkamp

Hello Josh All rods are a compromise one way or another. There are lots of rods designed to really excel at certain techniques. That is why you will usually find at least 12 baitcasters in my rod locker at all times. However, there are several that I own that are more versatile than others. In your price range here are some that I would consider if I were you. First up is the most versatile rod I own. It is a Powell Max 683CEF. Now mine is a Powell Max. Those have been replaced by a Powell Max3D and Tackle Warehouse has 3 left in stock. They run $135 Take a look at the original Tackle Tour test review on this rod. http://www.tackletour.com/reviewpowell683cxfast.html My next suggestion would be from Falcon, it is a Bucoo Micro series rod. BMC-7MH Trap Caster It is a 7 foot, medium heavy- mod action rod listing for 12-20 lb line and lures ranging from 1/4 to 3/4 oz Lures like buzz baits, crankbaits, rattle traps, and spinnerbaits all fish well with this rod. Try pulling larger crankbaits or making long casts with 1/2 oz. spinnerbaits with this one." You can get one of these from here for $130 http://www.lltackle.com/Home/tabid/61/ProdID/2536/FALCON_BuCoo_Micro_BMC7MH.aspx Another nice choice would be an Irod IRG693C “Harold’s Lone Star Special” The Genesis II series are nice rods. This rod can be found for around $150 Harold designed it to do a bit of everything. Lastly, (not in order of favorites or quality, just how I listed them) I would suggest a Gary Dobyns Fury series rod. A rod like a Fury FR734C. That will run you $110. I have a friend and fellow member on here that has changed at least 5 rods over to Fury rods and really likes them. I fish several other rods from Dobyns, but mine are Champions and Sierras. Now for a reel I would get a Tatula CT in 6.4-1 ratio and that is just to make sure this was as versatile a setup as possible. You will be very happy with the Tatula CT, but if you go this way send me a pm and I will give you some links for how to set the reel up best. They adjust a bit different than any other reel out there. I fish with 6 or 7 Tatula family reels. I am sure any of these rods will cover the baits your current setups do not cover well. None of these rods are designed to fish a hollow bodied frog well, but you can fish a bait like a Stanley Ribbit and that is a cool bait to throw. It skips well and hooks up pretty nicely, since it uses a single hook normally.

If I really wanted that reel to work I would send it to someone like DVT. If it can be fixed he will tell you so.

He seems to like a Veritas med or med hvy mod for deeper cranks. You will see the purple Ike rods for several uses including a spinning rod he throws drop shots and you will also see him with at least two different red colored Veracity rods during tournaments.

Hey Sam the funny thing about Ike is he does actually fish these rods. The purple hue is noticeable and I have seen him use them in tournaments before. In fact if you watch him close enough he is one of the few pros who actually do use their sponsors gear most of the time. Here is one of his Tackle Warehouse VLogs. He often fishes Veracity rods, his Ike rods and some Veritas rods.

I would probably go with the 2000 size for the line capacity. The wight is the same. I do fish a similar reel, it is an Okuma RTX 30. It comes in at 6.6 oz. Even that feels like a featherweight on a rod.

I just read the reviews on Tackle Warehouse and saw some good reviews and some where it snapped on people. It could have been the way the used it. In other word I let some extra winch strap out and so maybe that accounts for the difference. Mine has been used in fresh and saltwater( tidal actually) and is 3 years old. Two of the complaints were a father and son both had purchased them recently and both broke. Perhaps a batch issue. Most of the reviews I have seen have been positive. There were 3 on Tackle Warehouse site complaining of them breaking. The only review I can give is that I really like mine. It was worth every bit of the $40.00

My wife and I were seriously going to order a Champion 186DC and really liked their boat. Well "they ride like a Champion" nuf said. LOL We actually toured the plant and met with the regional sales rep at the factory. We detailed out a gorgeous boat, right down to the colors of the threads in the seats. We had everything settled except at the dealer and we met with them the first day after we returned to PA. The dealer would not honor some things the rep told us and we told him to shove it. He tried to rook us out of about $6,000 and for that and some other reasons he lost his dealership soon after. I did love the way that thing ran. Anyway if you found a good one it should be with you for a long time. We ended up with a brand new ProCraft instead. That was our third time to smell brand new fiberglass as it is made. Te other was we visited the Viper factory the day before we went to Champion Boats. I got the privilege to meet John Story, (one of the masterminds behind Champion Boats).

I guess I am the lone person that actually uses the Z Launch. I also fish out of an aluminum boat so I do not want to scrape my boat hull either. If you have seen some of my recent suggestions for launching alone then you would have seen the youtube videos I have listed before. Anyway, in the factory video you see the angler quickly launch the boat it slingshots out and he parks the trailer onto the ramp. The boat settles on the ramp rather abruptly. First, no one needs to do it that fast and aluminum rigs take less of a shove than a big heavy fiberglass boat does. So you can do it with more of a finesse approach. Here is what I have come to do. I preprep my boat the same way I always do and that is done in the main parking lot. First I take the back Boat Buckles loose, install the plug, then remove my Motor Mate and stow it. Next I install my electronics and unstrap the trolling motor. I do not remove my front winch strap till my boat is near the water. I back my trailer in till the wheels first get wet. I get out, unhook the winch strap and hook up the Z Launch. I always feed out about 4 feet of winch strap, then LOCK the winch! It takes seconds, but I also have slick bunks , not carpeted bunks, and I am not interested in finding my boat on the parking lot as I back down the ramp. I go in slowly till I see the hull raise a bit and I will just stop quick then pull out. I pull up out of the water till just the back center keel roller and bunk ends are still in the water. The boat will go out and sling shot back in until it gently settles between the bunks and is supported by the rear roller. It takes some fiddling to get it figured out, but you will find the sweet spot that works best. My boat has less momentum than the one in this video, so I just settle onto the end of my trailer bunks, his comes half way back on the trailer. Either way the front of the trailer is on dry land and you can let out some more winch strap till it is no longer under tension. Unhook the Z Launch and tie the boat on a dock or set it carefully on the ramp or grass whatever is available. I hope this help to see how you can use this method. There is nothing wrong with using a rope, I just found this tool to be handy and well made. I use very busy launches here on the Chesapeake Bay and Potomac River. The quicker I get on and of the ramp the better. I can do my pre-prep, line up and float my boat and walk it out to the end of the courtesy dock and tie it up quicker than many of the pleasure craft operators can get down the ramp let alone get their boats off their trailers. I still prefer to have a driver in the car and me in the boat, but if alone it is not that big a deal.

Here is some info on the Champ 187CLX, I believe the only difference was some package upgrades. It says it will take an 8 foot rod. http://www.fishingworld.com/fishing-and-boating-news/i/10470/t/champion-introduces-the-new-187-cxl-to-the-bass-boat-line

What was your thoughts on the Triton VT17? Was that still available?

Well those are good examples of what to look for.

The jon boat has gotten anglers off the shore for decades. Most are not very elaborate, but can be made to fish very well. Be aware not all jon boats are stable. Try to find one that is at least 14 foot long. You said you could not spend that much, but you need to decide what your budget is. Here is one example of a complete package for $3000 https://desmoines.craigslist.org/boa/d/14-lowe-jon-boat/6492450797.html Here is a bit more stripped down one. https://cedarrapids.craigslist.org/boa/d/16ft-flat-boat-with-25hp/6499350618.html They are asking $1000. It includes a 25 hp outboard as well. Spend some time looking at craigslist, boat trader or other local for sale locations in your area. You do want a boat that is at least 14 to 16 foot long and have a bottom width of 48 inches if possible. These are the more stable ones.

So if it is near him he should not bother to investigate into it. I had a friend recently get a nice 2004 Nitro from CL. They boat was advertised for $4500. It turned out the guy needed money for a divorce lawyer. Timing was everything. Is your friend willing to travel some for a nice rig? Here is a boat in stock at a dealership I have done business with for decades. It is not a Tracker but a Crestliner. http://www.lakesidemarinepa.com/index.php?view=inventory&viewid=858 It is a CX17 with a 75 4 stroke. Asking $8999.

https://albany.craigslist.org/boa/d/foot-bass-tracker-60hp-low/6503963961.html

You might want to look at this one too. It is a bit more money but may be at a better condition to start with. https://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/boa/d/ranger-bass-boat-392v-with/6496715421.html Ranger Bass Boat 392V with 1999 Mercury 150 Outboard - $5900 Check this one out as well. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/boa/d/bass-boat-86-ranger-2000-merc/6495954783.html Bass Boat 86 Ranger 2000 Merc. Optimax 150 - $6800 (concord / pleasant hill / martinez)

Proper trim angles (or trimming the engine) is a game of feel and one of observation. If your boat does not have a water pressure gauge get one installed if possible. A trim gauge is the other important source of info. Running around at different speeds and rpms will help educate you as to what water pressure your motor runs normally. You never want to trim by watching the water coming out of your motor. Instead, as you start out with the engine fully trimmed in towards the boat (we call it trimmed down) the boat will begin to lift the bow and come up on plane. The entire surface of the hull will be in contact with the water and the steering will be tight. Quickly bounce the trim button up and watch the gauges. You will feel the steering loosen up as the front of the hull lifts and you will see the water shooting out further and further back on the sides of the boat. Pay attention to the water pump and trim gauges as well as the speedometer. You will see a point where the water pressure drops and the tach goes up, but the speed of the boat goes down. That is trimmed too high. On my rig I run from all the way down to take off and can only trim about 1/4 of the gauge's motion. That is all the boat needs.

My boat is heavy. I have everything I carried in my 20 foot glass boat stored in this boat. I also chose to run that Stingray hydrofoil because we run in rough tidal water. It robs me of maybe 2 mph but it saves my kidneys big time while wave hopping. My top end is around 38 but she does something I love. She is fast and level coming out of the hole. There is almost no bow rise and then falling over. I could easily gain 2 to 5 mph if I add a jack plate, adjust the motor height and ran a stainless prop. I do not run stainless because of running on the Chesapeake Bay tidal rivers like The Upper Bay/ Susquehanna River, and the Potomac. There is so much rebar, old ships, old duck blind debris etc. Running an aluminum prop is a safer choice. if I hit something I loose a $100 prop, not a $2000 lower unit. I have messed around with props a bunch and in fact I am running a Turning Point Hustler 3 blade vented performance aluminum prop. I even had my local prop guru custom add some cup and balance it. It bites really nice now, even at low speed. Too bad you are not located nearby. i would give you some personal lessons. I do that with lots of members. Often we meet up and launch both boats for a day out fishing.

Take a look at a boat like this. The boat is 2005 Starcraft C-Star 16' - $11000 (Colville) https://spokane.craigslist.org/boa/d/2005-starcraft-star-16/6493977950.html Just saying this is probably the type of boat to meet your needs. It is at least in Washington and worth a family short term trip to go look at it. If you add one more seatthen yo see here you would be fine. A bigger version of this might work better but I would start here.

Well that is the Ford VS Chevy debate. I ran two Hummingbirds when I purchased my current boat. I have replaced one with a Lowrance and now I am looking at replacing the other with a Humminbird Helix 10 Gen 2 SI. That will go on my console and the Lowrance Elite 7 is moving up front. My Elite 7 is now called a Hook 7. It is a great unit for its price. If I was not willing to spend $1500 for a depth finder than I would drop down to a Lowrance Elite 9 TI. That unit will not be as nice as the Helix 10 or HDS product line, but it is real close to the HDS product. Here is one way I launch my boat by myself, when I need to. My boat is a 2010 Lowe Stinger 170 with a 75 hp motor on it. It is a very similar boat to your new one. Anyway I like using this bungee cord but I do not pull my trailer out as far as the video does. I stop so the rear roller is still submerged and just let the boat settle there. This way I do not scrape the bottom paint up at all. I always pre-prep my boat before getting in line to launch. I personally never unhook my front winch strap till my boat is sitting on the ramp and the back is just about to touch the water. Here is a couple of pics of my rig. The trolling motor is also Maxxum 70. The engine was a 25 HP, setup to fish HP restricted lakes. She now has the 75 on it. I switch back and forth between a front seat and a bicycle seat on a leaning post. In both of these pics we were crappie fishing those days so it was a seat day..

Take your time and decide what electronics will help you find fish more easily. Everyone has their favorite brand. What I have learned over the years is to save enough to get the largest graph you can. I have had plenty of 5 inch ones, and now I have a 7 inch at my console. I will never go less than 9 inch in the future. If you go with side and down imaging the resolution (what you can actually identify) is much better. Also a 2 bank 10 amp on board battery charger is a big help. When you come home from the water just plug them in and they will be ready for another day on the water. No fusing with dragging out a charger, no messing with wires except an electrical extension cord. Since this is your first "real boat" take your time getting used to how it tows, and how it feels backing up at the ramp. It may be helpful to go to an empty parking lot. You can set up empty trash cans or flags etc to emulate the ramp area. If your local ramps are open, then just go there. Soon you will build your confidence and get ready for your next fishing season. Congrats on the boat. There are tons of videos on youtube covering getting your boat ready and launching or recovering your boat

Yes you should be able to. I travel to Tennessee for fishing vacations. TN does not require plates on trailers also. Many times I see TN boat trailers and RV trailers travelling through VA. I would be sure to carry a copy of ownership papers for it and have my boat properly registered from TN or in your case South Carolina. I am certain any police officer would look at the license plate on the car, and registration of the boat before even considering to bother you.

I own and love my Ike 6'4 jerkbait rod also . Mine has a Daiwa Tatula CT with Halo on it. It balances well and fishes very well too. I do not think this series gets enough respect honestly.

A spool of Stren mono or P Line CXX costs less than 3 cents a yard. Both the CXX and Stren in a 6,8 or 10 pound class make fine leader. Keep your quality fly leader material for its intended use. You will be better off.

The baitcasting reel is so important in learning. If you look at a Daiwa Fuego CT that should be found around $75. A Berkley Lightning Shock rod runs around $50. Tackle Warehouse has the Daiwa "S" casting rods on sale for $69. It is a $99.00. Dicks has the Quantum Escalade on sale for 49.99. Of course Bass Pro has some combos on sale right now. Dicks has the Lews Mach 1 combo for $140.

Berkley Lightning Shock rods in a 6'6 medium moderate action. It works very well.