Way2slow

Lets see, I turn off alarms, fish ID, auto zoom and a whole bunch of other stuff, but not the power. The power gets turned off when I turn the main power switch on the console off, and have forgotten to do that on a few occasions

Depends on if there are two or three terminals on the switch. If there are just two, don't have enough info to help you. If there are three, you probably have it wired wrong. One would be the common, one would be a normally open (NO) and one would be a normally closed (NC), The NC terminal would let the TM run when the switch wasn't pressed, the NO would let the motor run when the switch is pressed. and the common is the hot terminal the switch is switching between the NO and NC

I have a 17" HP laptop, with the I7 processor I've been using for a bunch of years. It was getting when you opened it, you have to move the screen back and fourth a to get it to clear up, where the contact points are so worn. I figured I was about time to retire it and ordered that XPS. I got the 13 because the 17 was so big sitting in my lap, and it was bigger than the Surface Pro 3, should have gotten a 15. The HP doesn't have touch screen, and I need at least one with touch screen for signing documents etc.

That $1,500 POS only has one ThunderBolt connector. To make it where you can connect anything, you have to buy their $300 docking station. When I ordered it, I didn't realize the all the limitations it has. I had a surface pro 3 I hated and cracked the digitizer on it and wasn't willing to spend $175 for a new digitizer to repair it. Ordered this Dell XPS-13 2in1 touch screen with 11th gen Core7 processor and darned if I don't hate it more than that Surface. I'm thinking about giving it to my granddaughter and trying again, but not with a DELL.

Well, I was going to post a picture, but it's getting almost possible for me to sign in without getting that Oops something went wrong. This is my Dell and it doesn't have and SD slot for the camera's SD card. Forgot, I said I got a 1/4 sheet BC, I already had a small piece to do some of it. That's the cutout laying in there for the door, but not sure I'm going to put it on. OH, and don't depend on Lowe's color charts for picking a paint color. On the chart, that looked Olive Drab.

I'm almost finished with my Lowe 1436. I installed a MotorGuide X3 on the bow. That was going to need a 24" mount so I just made a small 24" deck and since there is an upward slope at the bow, I raised the back of it about 3" so it would be level with the bottom of the hull. I used a 1/4 sheet 1/2" BC plywood from Home Depot and fastened to the boat with 1/4-20 stainless steel rivnuts and 1/4-20 stainless screws. Five across the top in front and four down each side into that round rail that goes around the top of the hull. I put four rivnuts in a piece of stainless-steel plate and fastened that under the deck to hold the TM. That way, to take it off, I just screw out four socket head screws without having to worry about holding anything or those rubber mounts ripping out. I put several heavy coats of Polyurethane on any wood on the underside, and several coats of a 10-year Deck coating on top with the anti-skid sand stuff added to it. All connecting points were donee with 1 1/4" angle. It's rock solid and should last the rest of my lifetime. Since the boat has no storage, I figure that would give me a small amount of dry storage as well as a mount for the TM.

Any good epoxy paint, but on aluminum, the paint is not as critical as the primer. Zinc Chromate used to be the go-to primer for aluminum, but not sure it's still available. It has been years since I've painted aluminum so do the homework on what's a good primer. The two-part expoxy primer may work but haven't used it on aluminum, so can't say for sure. If you don't sand down to bare metal, it would be best just to lightly scuff the paint on it and spray over that. Bare metal will need to be primed though.

Being rated for a 115 has nothing to do with the extra weight of the four stroke. When they first started hitting the market, manufactures had to add additional reinforcement for account for the extra weight. So, not only do you have the extra weight of the four stroke motor, you have the jackplate, plus the additional setback it gives. Then you add the weight of some super heavy deep cycle batteries and onboard charger to get the extra run time. If you add those anchoring poles, pretty soon, you've added several hundred pounds of extra weight right to the ass-end of the boat.

I haven't seen our used one of these new live image units, but generally, I don't rely on the sonar to show me bass. Unless they are suspended, schooling and actively feeding, they are generally too close to the bottom or structure to pick them out. What I depend on are the images that show those special, isolated spots that bass tend to hold close to. There are always exceptions. On lake Falcon once we passed an underwater bare hump the was full of images that appeared to be fish about a foot off the bottom. Figuring it was something else we went on by. Not seeing anything else, I went back, and we made a few casts. For about the next hour, we were catching bass just about every cast.

One thing that will help, take the jackplate off and mount the motor directly to the transom. That motor weighs almost 380 pounds, any additional setback is going to cause a whole lot of extra bow lift. Don't know anything about your particular boat, or Trackers in general, but it's possible you might have some wet floatation foam. Even with close cell foam, it can get about 10% saturated and that could add weight. That's kind of a long shot unless the boat is stored outside, uncovered, but as mentioned weighing it will answer that question. I had a Stratos 285 Pro I took almost 300 pounds of wet foam out of, but that was the older, closed cell foam. Other than that, about the only thing you can do is start moving weight forward.

I would suggest having the battery tested first. We get new s***t that's bad all the time. Next logical culprit would be the voltage regulator, those are only about $400 and easily damaged with a bad battery. May have put off buying that new one too long. One second thought, since you just replaced the battery, make sure the connectors are clean and tight.

A little gee whiz info about the Anderson connectors. For instance, the SB-50. It's rated at how much current can be going through it when it's unplugged and not have to worry about arcing and burning the terminals. It will handle a lot more than just 50 amps without heating up or worry about voltage drop, as long as you are not unplugging it under a load. For instance, I've seen numbers of SB-350's running 600 amp loads on them and not get warm. I've run as much as 80 amps on a SB-50. I will say though, for that it would be better to run the SB-75.

I'm not understanding taking it out to charge it. A couple feet of 12 or 14ga wire and a SB-50 connector would make a pig tail from the battery to a convenient location to make it easy to plug in.

I have not tried to see but it seems if you are running side scan, the images would be crossed on the display, Left would be right and right would be left because the processor is not going to know they are reversed.

Just covering the intake ports is not adequate. The Water pump can be several inches above the intake ports and is sitting there in the air, in cavitation, and can take several seconds to start pumping and is possible it may not at all. The motor needs to be at least a couple of inches below the seam where the water lower unit bolts to the midsection. At a 1,000 rpm, those dry impeller blades can start melting pretty darn quick. I was watching an episode of Lone Star Law the other day and the lady jumps in the boat and fires up that 250 Merc and then they back it into the water. I'm thinking, what and idiot, they sure didn't teach here anything about operating a boat.

Problems like that are what multimeters are made for. It lets you diagnose the actual problem instead of guessing.

FishinBuck07, all you have to do is use that one AJ posted and convert it to a ring tone. I've made several of my own. The one I'm using special version of Dixie I liked. I just recorded it and converted it to a ring tone.. OOPs, sorry, AJ's was the wrong motor for what you wanted.

I suspect that's more for lawsuit protection. Not that it's going to damage anything if properly connected, it's the world of s***t you can get into if not properly connect. If you cross connect to a lead acid battery, you get a big spark. If cross connect to a lithium, you also get that same big spark, but there is a possible battery explosion and fire to go along with that big spark. Shorting a lithium battery is dangerous business, especially since they are usually located next to a fuel tank.

Yep, things were totally different back in those days. Talk about talking to the bank president, the bank president gave me a $225 signature loan to buy a 29 model A ford. I had just turned 17 and spent the cash I had buying a new boat, and this car came up and didn't want to lose it. He asked me if I was going to pay it back and I said of course and walked out with the money. However, he also knew me really well and was a regular customer at the service station I was working at after school.

While on active duty, I always had a credit union account, since they were conveniently located on base. Now that I'm retired, they are not so conveniently located. However, I have had an account with what was a small bank in the town I lived in as a teenager. It has been bought out several time since then and is now a Regions Bank. I was just reading on one of the new popups that comes up and my home page about a woman's mother in a nursing home, having her Regions debit card compromised and Regions refuses to do anything for he about it. I have not been really happy with them since they went Regions and thinking about making a change,

I rarely use my "real" debit card. It never leaves my hand or goes into a card reader that's not inside a major retail facility. It's way too easy for crooks to scan it. I keep a second, prepaid debit card I only put $100 at a time on unless I know I need it to make a larger purchase, then I will put enough for that one time buy. I absolutely would never use my real card to buy something online. The only credit cards I have are my gas cards and an American Express and some online places don't take that or PayPal, so I either have to try to find what I want elsewhere or use my prepaid card. Over the years, I've had my American Express compromised three times, and they took care of it. I've had my Cheveron compromised twice, from buying gas at pumps from at places that are closed but still have their pumps on. Perfect setup for crooks to place a card reader to scan your info. I know the banks claim they will make wrongful charges against your debit card good, but good luck on that one and if they do, it can take months. I've heard of more than one person's nightmares dealing with banks over wrongful charges, so I limit mine to an amount I could do without if that does happen. I usually keep several thousand dollars in my checking account the real debit card is on, a lot more than I would care to do without if it got compromised.

I just picked up a 12V Motorguide X3, 45# 36" shaft at BPS to go on bow of my 1436 Lowe jon boat. I feel that's more than enough for that boat. I wanted the X3 digital which is only available in the 55# but the shortest shaft available on that one is the 42", and I didn't want that. This will be the first non-digital TM I've owned since they came out with the digitals. I figure I can make or buy a mosfet controller to go on it and make it a digital easier than I can deal with all that extra shaft sticking up.

Wow! I must be missing something. I thought a 10' Bass Raider was one of those plastic pontoon things. Where would you even put that much battery in the thing. I must be doing something wrong; I've always considered my 28# thrust more than enough for my 1232 jon I use for ponds and small water.

Mine had Synflex hoses, but regardless of if it's Synflex or steel braid, the outer shell is just for wear protection.

I have used a `12v MinnKota 65MX on a 12ft jon in ponds for more years than I can remember, never seen a need for anything bigger for pond fishing. Now, I would not even try to use it in the river, where they have a good current flow. I'm only running a 60 lb Enduro on a 24' 4,500lb pontoon in big water and had no problems