fishwizzard

I have a spare SOT yak and gear, but no reasonable way to transport both of them on my car but if would not mind loaning it out if transport could be worked out.

I keep wanting to find a very short frogging rod, like 6’ ish, to use from my kayak but have never really found one that looks suitable. There is a Southeast Asian company called Bone Fishing that offers a lot of short, heavy rods, but I haven’t looked closely to see if there is a decent frogging option among them. http://www.bonefishingworld.com/

I have a MB XXX Black Themis w/ an Alphas Finesse Custom that I use for drop shotting and neko rig stuff. It’s 6’7” and the XF action does not let it load lighter stuff very well for accurate casting. For Neds and other “small plastics on a jighead” uses I’m on the hunt for a 6 foot rod with a more moderate action to it, but I have yet to really find one that I love.

I agree bit I ususly add one “wild” color for most plastics. Sometimes it seems like they want something bright irrespective of water clarity.

I have a 300' tape and some tomato stakes, I am going to mark some distances in the field behind my house. I have a feeling that I am not making very long casts at all.

I don't think I cast any where near 50y with any presentation I normally throw. I did a test on one of my reels, a Daiwa sv103 with a 34mm spool. I have the reel spooled with 40lb PP braid; Again we run into the issue of manufactures just listing "14lb Mono" without giving diameter. Ande IFGA Mono does not come in 14lb, only 16lb and 12lb, but the 12lb is .325 mm, so we can assume that 40lb PP is a little thinner then the ideal 14lb mono. With the spool filled up to bottom of the lip I am getting ~26" ITP, give or take 1/2" on each side as I used a fat marker to mark the line. I then pulled off line to the half-way mark Daiwa puts on their spools. I tend to fill my spools to this mark with backer and the rest with mainline. When I measured again I was getting around ~22" ITP. So not a huge difference. In interestingly, when I mentioned noticing a slow down in retrieve speed was over the summer, when I had the same reel spooled up with 65lb Sufix 832. Now in that case, we are in between Ande IFGA 16lb at .375mm and Ande IFGA 20lb at .425mm. I believe I spooled the Suffix to fill the entire spool and while I never spooled it on a cast, I believe that I was casting off more then half of the spool, but was honestly not paying close attention. I do have a 1016 spool filled with .40mm mono that I will run the same test on in a bit.

I fish with mostly 1016 sized Daiwa spools, so like 100y/14lb line. At the end of a long bomb cast with a lure like a toad that needs a min speed to stay on top I will have to reel faster then I do as the lure gets closer to me. It’s not a huge speed increase but it’s enough to be annoying if I am doing it all day. ITP drop off is very easy to test but I have never gotten around to doing it.

Thanks for posting this, I have not gotten around to putting any of these on my calander yet. There are two more comming up soon I didn’t see on the list, a smallmouth-centric show in Boonsbouro MD and an other show in PA. I’ll try to dig up the info on them and post it when I get home tonight. I’ve been to most of the MD shows posted and they most all have either pit beef or oysters for sale, sometimes if you’re lucky both!

Cool, thanks. I keep mine outside under a large stand of trees, so it’s never in direct sun. I have never used duct seal ibefore and didnt know how affected by temperature it was. I keep tackle in my car all year as well. I did a little test with a remote barbecue thermometer probe and discovered that the inside of my car, parked in the shade and under the packing blanket that I lay over my rods and tackle, never really exceeds 120 to 130 Fahrenheit on even the hottest days.

Do you store your yak indoors or out? I keep mine outside and I am going to take the sonar plunge this spring but worry about the duct seal bond weakening in the heat.

Eh, I would rather just have them prominently list the ITP for a full spool, which is usefull info to extrapolate from. Gear ratio alone doesnt give any info on how much line a reel will pick up per crank. I also wish line manufactures would list lines by diameter and raw breaking strength, but that aint gonna happen either.

It was close enough that I am going to walk outside and try again, but I know when I got mine and first tried it they just barely didn’t fit. They will hold an impressive amout of stiff though. It’s a great bag but fully loaded it must weigh 40-50lbs.

Gotta get all the reasonable ideas out of my head before I go back to work next week.

It soves the problem of “how do we brand and sell a jika rig in an increasingly satruated tackle market? If I had a wire-forming tool I would make some toyko rigs up as I alreay have a million tungsten weights on hand rather then buying jika weights.

The Magnum side pockets almost fit a 3600, but they are a bit too small. I have one as my basecamp bag I keep in my car, it’s a monster and I really love it.

Which reel? I like ridiculously shallow spools.

Yea, I hope to find a 6’ rod that I like to stick it on. I have the Airy Red spool and a DIY spool both loaded with 4lb Mono to do a little head to head on my trout rod. I also stuck the ‘zilla with an og Pixy spool on a mbr783 and am going to give that a go as for a bit, I want to see how well I can get that rod to pitch/cast a weighless trickworm with it.

Thanks for the info, I might send mine off to have the shorter inductor installed, might as well sink some more money into these spools. Speaking of sinking money into things; Found a deal too good to pass up on a Airy Red Pixzilla. I have wanted one for a while but never got around to buying a Pixy and moding it. This one is in outstanding shape and I am super pleased with it. It's on a cr721 at the moment and it's the make or break reel for this rod. I want to like it so badly but have never found a good role for it. I am gonna see if I can make it work as a Ned rig/light plastics rod.

I wanna say that when I went on my fluke-frenzy a few years ago the weighs went Zoom Super < D-Shad < Caffeine Shad. I beleive the D-Shad is about the same as a Senko (~3/8oz) and I am reasonable sure the Caffeine Shad was closer to 1/2oz. It’s a big chunk of plastic.

The 4” weighs 0.265oz. I don’t have anymore 5” ones but I seem to remember that they were quite heavy, perhaps a little north of half an ounce?

Ok, it's actually 88.235294117647% Daiwa. ?

I keep 1/16, 3/16, and 1/2oz weights on hand. So much of my fishing is shallow that the 1/16 and 3/16 cover most needs and if I want a faster fall the I might as well step up to 1/2oz. This year I found a great way to store a small assortment of weights in the bag I use for bank fishing. I tried daily pill holders before but they would always open up in my pack. I then found circular ones where the opening-tab is protected from being popped open.

I am about 99% Daiwa at this point. I am so used to their brake system(s) that I have a hard time looking at other brands. I also have enough reels now that spool-compatibility is a huge plus when it comes to sticking with Daiwa.

I had enough success to keep throwing them and I would say I do catch larger bass on them then I do my usual finesse plastics, but not by an insane margin and the hit rate is far far worse. Mostly I figure that if I am gonna be cold and not catch fish, I might as well not be catching bigger fish. I cheated on the 68 Special yesterday and went to the fallback-pond, which is a small, shallow marsh surrounded with either dense thorns or chest-high grass, no open bank to speak of. It was amazing, 12 bass in like 2 hours and without all the normal thorns and grass I didn't get a single cut or tick! None of them were of any reasonable size, but it was a nice reminder that I can occasionally catch a bass.

Oh, sorry, I thought the terms where in more common use, I’m talking about the style of head. http://confidencebaits.3dcartstores.com/Draggin-Head_c_11.html https://river-rock-custom-baits.myshopify.com/products/crawler-head-jig They’re very expensive but as they become more common the price seems to be coming down, I get mine for a dollar per head unpainted from a guy in a smallmouth forum.