Cajun Basser

one last thought...do not pull apart the rubber or silicone strips until AFTER they are tied on the jig hook...easier to work with if they are still in one strip

the kevlar type of thread is stronger and will allow a tighter wrap on the heavier-thicker rubber. It does not need to be waxed for these lures. How are you possibly tying without a bobbin?? I whip finish by hand, but no bobbin???? ALSo I am sure you and I might be able to place and hold a mass of rubber in place and then with our third hand put the bread wrap over it all...but the original poster seemed to be new at this, that is why I suggested tying on in layers or sections.

Basically there are 3 types of plastic, hard(saltwater) soft and super soft. The soft material is slightly softer than standard Berkey, Zoom baits, while the super soft is VERY soft. Either work well for worms, with the sandard soft better for trailers and craws. ANY of the materials can be hardened or softened, or make more floatant.

Kevelar type thread, good quality bobbin. Tie thread around the hook and secure with half hitch. Now you will tie on the rubber in small batches. Take the top color / batch and hold it onto the jig head, wrap 1-2 turns, repeat with bottom batch of material, then again with side material...finish wrap over all material. If you have a rotating vice, the process is easier.

I have been wading in a local public lake a lot this past year(boats are not allowed). The water gets covered with lilly pads and many areas require LONG casts. All the pervious sugestions on using long rods with faster tip are in order, but I would add that I tried using 30-50 lb braid ling with a short mono leader. The addition of the braided lind restricted my casting distance, but REALLY did afford me less fish lost due to better hookset and no line stretch. When I used this set up I would often switch to a worm or french fry (same rod'reel) and I could easily change the bait with the mono leader. Andy

You must glue the original down, I have set up the mold making rig using small lego blocks over a piece of foamcore which I covered with wax paper. Then I used large sewing pins through the bait to hold it down. Pour the plaster and then I use a spoon handle to tap into the plaster all around the bait to release air bubbles. Andy

I have tried this method and am getting really frustrated...seems like I need 5 hands and then the wire snaps as I tighten it .Any particular method you people use that works? And what type of wire are you using? I need help with the size and where to get it? Andy

I hit a local lake via wading all year long ( except during the hard water period) and have found all the fish to relate to grass lines, isolated weed patches, and the edge of deeper lilly pads... all in slightly offshore depths. The problem I have is getting to these spots or casting out far enough to reach them from shore. I will "look" for isolated weds by starting with a crank bait until I "find" patches and then switch to worms, senko, or french fries. Many bass seem to be just below the surface in these weeds, or under the outermost edges of lilly pads...but SOMETIMES the do relate to burying themselves in the weeds so I will peg a worm with a slightly heavier weight. Nightime is great with scum frogs, jitterbugs and soft jerkbaits. Deeper edges along shore edges are tough to fish because you are wading...try wading a cliff drop off sometime! Rocky points or just a line of chunk rocks on a smooth bank also works well, as do any humps on the bottom. I also find the fish scattered all over the place in the summer, so keep moving. Andy